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WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2005 - 01:25 pm: | 
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Is there anything one has to pay special attention to (like left-handed threads, easily vulnerable cables, etc.) when taking apart a Mamiya Super Deluxe ? Is anybody out there familiar with that camera ? |
Mike
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2005 - 08:34 pm: |
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It's a well designed and easy camera to service.
No surprises except the scarce f1.5 lens model seems to have some serious glue holding the lens groups in place. |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2005 - 06:50 am: |
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Thanks for your input, Mike, this is good news. I am still not sure whether to start that project, as also other cameras queue up for repair and the Mamiya's f1,7 front lens is badly scratched.
How would you rate my chances to find replacement ? |
Mike
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2005 - 07:52 pm: |
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The Super Deluxe seems to be somewhat scarce but I don't think it has much collector interest. They are still inexpensive. I have seen them with 2.0, 1.7, and 1.5 lenses. |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, June 03, 2005 - 11:56 am: |
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Thanks again, I will keep my eyes open to find another specimen, especially the one with the fast lens.
With a bit of luck the one I am working on at present will very soon be back together again. The self-timer had to be fixed (inoperative because someone had forcibly pushed it back to zero position, the shutter and the aperture blades were hopelessly gummed up).
But after a day's work, everything looks nice again, the shutter is like new, the RF is crisp and clean, and the meter is working. If there wasn't that damaged front lens this would make a fine fully functional camera. |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 06, 2005 - 04:24 am: |
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Wow, more demanding than expected, that bastard! What looked like a cinch at first turned out to be a trial and error festival of readjusting the film advance array including the release mechanism and the serrated horizontal actuator of the shutter cocking device. Everything works the way it is expected to work, even the thingummygig that prevents double exposures. But the front lens still look loke it has been used in a sand storm, and there is no cure for that, I think. |
Ernesto J. L´Episcopo
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 06, 2005 - 02:13 pm: |
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Hi guys! I´ve got a Mamiya Super Deluxe with 1.5 lens. Is it possible for someone of you to tell me how to reach the shutter assembly? It works, but speed is fixed (about 1/30), so I´m thinking of the escape mechanism and perhaps shutter blades stuck by dry grease, and a full lighter fluid bath...hope will do the trick. Thank you! |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 07, 2005 - 06:32 am: |
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I have no experience with the 1.5 model, but from pictures of that fast lens camera I know it follows the same design as the 1.7 type. Do not try to loosen the black engraved front ring, as its removal will result in taking off the uppermost glass only, not the upper half of the lens. Use a friction tool instead (I usually use a reversed mouse mat/pad or a child's flat round rubber) and unscrew the front assembly of the lens as a whole, all the rest is the usual routine. When taking off the different rings of the lens barrel be extra careful with the wipers of the metering system (three of them altogether, two of which are fixed to the shutter housing and slide along a resistor strip inside the lens barrel). If you bend or break them (especially the feathery one) your meter won't work ! For further dismantling, desolder the blue and brown wire from the meter board underneath the top cap, note their position for rassembly.
If you consider it necessary to separate the shutter from the body for cleaning or repair purposes stripping down of the leatherette and removal of the front plate is necessary. The shutter is fixed to the plate with one ring nut underneath the rear lens group; three tiny steel maggot screws keep it in its position inside the basic part of the lens barrel. Before you take things apart here, note carefully how they go back together. Reassembly is relatively easy if you don't change anything. |
dmr
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 12:20 am: |
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Does anybody know if/where a service manual for the Super Deluxe is available? I'm trying to resurrect one now with a shutter and/or linkage problem, and although I am rather handy, a manual would make it easier.
I sure wish I had read here before disassembling to get to the shutter blades. Yes, I took the front ring and 2 elements out before figuring out that the whole front lens assembly is supposed to come out in one piece. Thanks in advance.  |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2005 - 04:16 am: |
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Sorry, dmr, for that late response to your article, but I was on holiday when it appeared. AFAIK there is no service manual available, and the instruction booklet is a nice but superfluous thing except showing the visible differences between the different models (f 2, f 1,7, f 1,5.), but any reasonable person can do without it, as usual. What is tricky about those cameras is that during production the manufacturer obviously changed quite a number of details inside (film advance & double exposure prevention system, wiring/soldering joints, additional washers or shims under the advance lever and the rewind knob, types of resistors used, etc.), so you never know precisely before you open a camera what problems it poses. On all models I found gummed-up shutter and aperture blades, and decalibrated rangefinders, but complete disassembly is not necessary. If you remove the leatherette (careful, it tends to tear) and take out the front plate and front and rear lens groups there is free access to everything that needs cleaning. Instead of lighter fluid I often use electronic parts cleaner now, Rick Oleson was the one who advised me to do so, and I must say of the various types I tried there are several (some of them affect plastic, so do be careful !!) that leave the oily residue often seen after "Ronsonol flushing" no chance at all. The "linkage problem" that you mention is most probably caused by the serrated actuator of the cocking mechanism, if it does not fit the shutter's cogwheel properly there is too much play in the mechanism, the shutter is not cocked and snaps back instead, but there are two brass slothead screws (don't overtighten them, they tend to break) which make adjustment possible. If the length of the release shaft is inapproriate(on top of it there is a spindle-like long adjustment screw) it may happen that B or 1/500 sec do no longer work. This camera is excellent for tinkering, like the Konicas or Tarons, and in comparison to those overestimated Canonets a pleasure to use ! |
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