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Harlee
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Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 07:38 am: | 
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I notice there are a number of questions regarding the infamous A series Canon squeak when the shutter is tripped. Some time ago I posted a conversation on how I lubed the squeak on my AE1-P through the bottom of the camera. I found that on a UK web site. I know there are skeptics out there who would challenge this method, so I thought I'd share that last night I "de-squeaked" two Canon A1s using the same method. Actually I de-squeaked one of my A1s about a month ago, but buggered up something internally. The shutter wouldn't trip nor would it advance. However, the diods in the viewfinder continued to work correctly. It appeared as though the camera was cocked but wouldn't fire. Last night I found a Q & A site on Canon cameras, and someone answered a question to a similar problem in this way. On the A1, move the multiple exposure switch over all the way, recock the shutter and it should free up. I don't know what problem the question was addressing, but I figured it might be worth a try. So I tried it on my jammed up A1, and behold, the shutter cocked and the shutter fired, without any squeak. So I took my 2nd almost mint A1, removed the bottom, and with a needle syringe, inserted it into the body where the mirror gears are located, applied a few drops of my specially formulated lube and lo and behold, the shutter squeak also stopped almost immediately. I picked up this almost mint A1 in a Pawn shop for $39.00, sans lens. I figured that I couldn't go too far wrong for that price. Lubing the mirror gears through the bottom of the Canon A series does work, with a minimum of effort. CAUTION - don't trip the shutter with the lube tube inside the camera - that's how I messed up the first A1. |
Glenn Middleton
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Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 04:55 pm: |
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Use the method that you are most comfortable with.However the 'applied a few drops'would worry me,if it were my camera.
To remove the squeak long term all you need is one 2mm drop of suitable lube,applied to the flywheel pivot.I go in through the top because I know I can place my single drop oiler spot on.The rest of the gears do not need lube (delrin).Also I can clean the wind mechanism,prism rear face and viewfinder lens.Excess lube can find it's way onto the shutter curtain.
In 1979 I had my employer purchase an A1.At the time I was lugging a F1 all over the countryside on QA work.The compact A1 was thought to be ideal for recording a new test on welds.We were exposing something like 200 frames per day,5 days a week for over six months!The test was highly successful but the A1 was not.After about five months the mirror seized up,no squeak or other noise,just stopped working.
We were loaned another A1 whilst it was repaired.Cause of problem was given as faulty damper unit.After about 18 months the camera failed again with same problem.This time the camera was replaced with a modified item.Talking to other professional photographers over the years it seem that our experiences were not unique.In heavily used A1 cameras the early damper unit was prone to sudden seizure.A modification to the clearances on the flywheel pivot was the answer evidently.It is amusing to see in the early Canon list of what spares to carry for the A1,that the damper suddenly became a must have item!
What is all this to do with the squeak?Well on the forty or so A1 that I have repaired/refurbished it is clear that the squeal is not just caused by loss of lube but by excessive wear in the flywheel bearing.The hole becomes bell mouthed, due to the weight of the flywheel at one end of the gear.The wheel oscillates on the dry pivot as well as rotating,it is this oscillation that produces the squeal on old A series.A new, unlubed damper does not squeal;I have tested and proved.
As I have stated before on other threads,I am quite happy to use 'prepared' WD 40 in this application.My A1s still earn their keep and do not squeak 2 years on from this treatment.However following a tip I am going to experiment with a 0/30 grade synthetic motor oil,which is said to last even longer in this situation. |
Peter Wallage
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Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 05:10 pm: |
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Hi Glen,
As you have had a lot of experience repairing A1s perhaps you can help me with a problem on one of mine. Everything works fine except that it eats batteries. A battery lasts about a week, if I'm lucky, so I don't use it.
I've heard that it's not an uncommon fault, but I've never been inside an A1 so any help, both on any points to watch for when taking the top off, and where to look for the possible fault, would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
BTW, I've never had any squeaks on any of my three A1s. Possibly they're all later models. Any idea of the serial number when the modified damper was introduced?
Regards,
Peter |
Harlee
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 05:19 pm: |
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Thanks Glenn,
That a very interesting story on the longevity of the A1. I don't use my Canons anywhere near that amount of picture taking. It'll be interesting to see how these two A1s hold up over the next year or two. I have around 6 different Canons that I use quite regularly, both manual and AF, and over the years they have served me faithfully. But like any piece of mechanical/electronic equiptment, some are designed and built better than others, so time will tell. I'm not a camera repairman, but I'm a diehard tinkerer, and my AE1-P appears to be holding it's own after de-squeaking it around 2 years ago. But thanks again Glenn, I'm always ready to listen, and learn from someone who knows more about the subject than I do. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2005 - 08:27 pm: |
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Harlee,
I would not say 'knows more',I always used photography as part of my work.Because a family friend was a Leica dealer I got a good discount and a year round 'Christmas Club' with the goods up front!I ended my student days with a comprehensive M2 outfit,which I still have and is my favourite kit.There was a gentleman's agreement between the two photographic shops in town,my friend sold Canon the other sold Nikon.So when I went down affordable slr route it was Canon FD.Over the years I amassed a set of lenses that were the pick of the bunch.I was very lucky in that respect.Being a natural tinkerer I repaid the kindness in a small way by repairing and testing the second hand stock.That was nearly 40 years ago.All my photography has been mostly B&W,very easy for home processing but I now scan and digitally print.Well my son does,he is the digital wizard in this family.The A1 is still eminently usable in this situation and tends to go unnoticed in the street.We are getting very paranoid in the UK about people taking photographs.
Peter,
Battery problem could be dirty insulators on the battery test/finder illumination switch.Whatever was done to damper,the problem was not apparent on the replacement 259689-I purchased the camera as scrap when I took early retirement! All my others are 3xxxxx to 8xxxxx,these have more metal parts in the wind on etc.From 1xxxxxx there seems to be an ever increasing substitution of plastic for metal in the internals.Not saying this is bad,but it is the obvious way that Canon managed to bring the price down in real terms over the life of A1.I did post a strip-down instruction for A1,I will look for it and give you details later today.It is 03.30 in morning,bed calls!! |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, June 29, 2005 - 04:25 pm: |
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Peter,
Do a search for 'Canon A series shutter squeek'(that is not a spelling mistake).My post on Sunday May 08 2005 at 03.55 gives details of top removal and what to look out for.If you have not got A1 repair manual you can download the official Canon item from Christian Rollinger's excellent site; www.canonfd.com/choose.htm
Some people just disconnect the wire from the battery test switch to solve the drain problem.But I think that by cleaning insulators and perhaps repositioning contacts you may solve problem.If the wire were damaged it would have to be cut at the other end and not just removed from the switch,if you see what I mean.
Contact me if you have any queries after reading info.
Glenn |
Peter Wallage
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Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2005 - 03:34 pm: |
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Glenn,
Many thanks. I've printed out your posting for reference. At first it read a bit daunting, but after re-reading carefully it's very well worded and quite logical - probably even more so when I get the camera in front of me on the bench.
I've also downloaded the A1 repair manual and will use the disassembly and exploded parts sections as a further guide. My A1 is fourth or fifth in the queue, but when I get to it I'll e-mail you if I run into problems - and if all turns out plain sailing. Thanks again.
Peter |
Betty Ferri
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 11:07 am: |
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HELP! I unscrewed the rewind knob and it fell apart. I need to know how to put it back together.
Thanks,
Betty |
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