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Judith Wallerius
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 08, 2005 - 03:47 pm: | 
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While on vacation the shutter of my A1 opened but then failed to close again. I tried twisting the time-dial, the shutter remained open. It closed only when I turned the camera off. The next frame, same thing happened. After that, the camera seemed to think I had set it on 1/1000 and blinked that number in the viewfinder although at that time it was set on "P". I was able to use it by setting both time and aperture manually for a few frames, than the not-closing thing happened again.
Weird thing is, when I was finished with that film and had tried it empty for a couple of shots it seemed to be working fine, and with the last two films there didn't seem to be a problem as well, which would rule out any problems due to a faulty battery or anything like that. I considered having it checked at a repair-store, but that's so expensive in work-hours it would probably exceed the camera's worth.
Has anything like that happened to anyone before? I like that camera a lot and it's never let me down to date. I'd hate to replace it, even with the same model (if I can get one in good working order, that is), as it's been so reliable the whole time. Don't have too much money either.
Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Judith |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, August 08, 2005 - 06:10 pm: |
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You are saying that the A1 has functioned correctly for 40/72 exposures after exhibiting the problem?Did you try,press,fiddle with anything else after removing the film with exposure problem?Has the camera had a clean and lube job or been serviced?Does the camera have the A series squeak?Your answers may help narrow the fault search.
Difficult to say what is wrong really from your description.However IC failures are usually immediately terminal not intermittent, so fault could be dirty switch contacts or faulty flex-circuit connections.Make sure battery compartment terminals are clean and the spring loaded one moves freely.
Here in UK you can buy a good A1 far cheaper than having a faulty one stripped down and repaired.If your present A1 is in good cosmetic shape,you can always transfer the top and bottom plates etc onto a working replacement, with poor cosmetics.This could be the cheapest way to obtain a nice looking replacement when yours dies. |
Judith Wallerius
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2005 - 10:33 am: |
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I checked my negatives, it actually worked for three films - 100 exposures - after that happened the first time. But just now it went into its state again...
The camera does not have the squeak nor did it have any other problems, no noises, squeaks, rattles, jams or anything. It just was working fine. It had to be repaired two years ago after someone had dropped it. That time, the top part of the camera (with the serial number printed on) and the slotted take-up spool was replaced. That was also the last time it got serviced. I put about 300 rolls through since then. The cleaning I do is of the q-tip and blowbrush-kind, no lubing or flushing.
After the first time, I tried various time/aperture-combinations and found that the camera would work if I just avoided the "P"-setting which I use very rarely anyway. In "P", the camera flashed "1000" and would not release the shutter. Since the problem with the mirror not snapping down again didn't happen when I tried all that, I decided to just keep using it, hoping it would dissappear...yeah right.
The last three films went without a hitch (no stuck mirror, and no time-failures either, even "P" worked) but now it's happening again and not changing.
-It does not release the shutter, not with cable release, too
-when I went through the timesettings they were displayed correctly in the camera from b to 125,
but 250/500/1000 showed as 125, too, and P gave a blinking 1000
-after that I tried the aperture value, it displayed error all the way from 1.4 to 22
-now in time value it just errors if the lens is on "A" but shows correct display-readings with aperture pre-set on lens, even in "P".
Still won't release the shutter. And yes, I did wind it up  . It also has a new battery and clean contacts.
Is it possible that some dust or something made its way into the area where the aperture/time wheel is read and the shutter released electrically? The not-releasing of the shutter seems to be rather the twin-problem to the not-closing of the mirror that happened first. Maybe openig the camera and cleaning that bit will help, but I've never done that before.
I've been looking around for a used A1 before because I considered having two bodies for B/W and color at the same time, but they don't get in stores to often, at least not in the shops I manage to visit on a regular basis. I'm living in Germany, and might be able to go to Frankfurt if I find the time. |
doug
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2005 - 10:50 am: |
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Just a little comment, the timing on the A1 is done by a pair of electro magents, that can be seen when the base is removed, if either of the magnets hang on then you will get a shutter problem.You say that when the camera is turned off the shutter closes. This sounds like a magnet hanging on.
Remove the base and watch the magnets to see that both of them release.
If either of them does not release, they could be contaminated, clean with a little lighter fuel, also check that there are no iron filings etc trapped in the magnets. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2005 - 07:12 pm: |
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Judith,
Doug's comments are very valid .In the usual circumstances cleaning the pole pieces of the magnets, will cure misfiring shutters on cameras fitted with these devices.I am a little worried that the indications you describe, will need more than just cleaning the magnets, to put right.
How do you feel about going inside the camera?Removing the base is easy.I can point you to online manuals/pictures.I cannot say that if the magnets do not release,it will be due to contamination because of the other indicators.
An A1 with these faults is not going to be the easiest of first projects.I am sorry that I cannot be more helpful at the moment.
Glenn |
Judith Wallerius
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2005 - 06:34 am: |
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Hi Glenn,
I'll give it a shot. I'm quite adept with my hands and patient with fiddly-diddly stuff, and since it's broken now I really don't have much to loose. As you wrote, it's probably better to get another body instead of paying for having that one fixed.
So, how do I start? And removing the base, what should I be careful with and not touch, bend etc? I've tried the screws already, but they won't budge, probably haven't been unscrewed since the camera was made. So let's start with the basics...How do I get those stubborn screws unstuck?
And thanks very much for your and Dougs help, even if you don't know the quick and magic fix for the problem it's still good to have someone who knows their stuff and takes the time to answer. It's loads better than before when I was reduced to helplessly twisting dials and knobs. At least I can try now. So, thank you.
Judith |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2005 - 09:28 am: |
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Judith,
Will give some details later today,but those screws.Make sure that the screwdriver fits properly and is fairly new if a relatively cheap one.Canon screws are hardened a bit.This soon knocks the edges off all, but high quality drivers.
You can try two things; 1,place a drop of naptha(lighter fluid)on the screw heads and let penetrate,before trying to turn.2,Try and tighten the screw slightly before immediately trying to unscrew.Combining 1 and 2 is also good.
Note that for UNSCREWING +head screws the grips/handles on most miniature drivers are too small.I have built up the handles on a set with epoxy putty.Only use for unscrewing,do not use method 2 with them.The extra torque will strip out the head/threads if used for tightening.
Nothing falls out when you remove base.Go to
www.canonfd.com/choose.htm
and download the A1 repair manual.(another good site)If I remember there are pics of magnets etc.If not look at the AE1P manual, inside base very similar.
Will come back later,email me direct if you want when base is off.
Glenn |
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