| Author |
Message |
    
nathan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 03, 2005 - 01:19 am: | 
|
I have 2 Electro 35's that my grandpa gave me a while back, and luckily they both have the same problem. I purchased another one on Ebay about 2 weeks ago and it has the same problem. If there is no battery everyhing works fine and it fires at 1/500 just like it should.
In one, as soon as I put the battery in the shutter becomes sticky (it opens for a second or two, then closes) or just stays on wide open like it'd be if i had it set on "b".
The other two just stay open even when on auto or flash modes.
Ive looked around and I think it might be the "pad of death" anyone have any adivce or input before I attemp to fix it?
Thanks in advance. |
Roman Dubravsky
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 03, 2005 - 02:33 am: |
|
Hello,
Did you use a fresh battery?
What are color lights doing when you are pressing shutter slowly? Are they working normally? Are they reacting to aperture or ASA setting changes? |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 03, 2005 - 02:51 am: |
|
Three cameras with identical failure symptoms? Numerous coincidental errors do not happen according to my experience. What battery type are you using ? What about the typical 'clunk' when winding ? Do the shutters close when you ? |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 03, 2005 - 02:54 am: |
|
Sorry, ... the last sentence is incomplete and was intended to read: "... when you remove the battery" ? |
nathan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 04, 2005 - 01:25 am: |
|
I'm using a 6volt battery (px32a) with them right now.
When I remove the battery it works just like it should, at 1/500. But the bulb setting doesnt work. (I'm not even sure if it's supposed to without the battery)
The ones that don't work are two Electro 35 G's and one Electro 35 GS. The only one I have that works fine is a GSN.
The GS works fine on all f-stops on "b" on all ASA settings, and the Auto only works fine on an ASA of 1000, otherwise it just stays open, or opens for a few seconds then realizes it should close faster and it closes on its own.
Now that you asked I've noticed that my yellow light never goes off, even at f1.7 in adequate light.
On my G the meter works fine and the lights come on and go off when they should. I checked it against the one that works.
On my other G the meter doesnt work at all, and the shutter stays open no matter what.
I don't hear a clunk in any of them.
Not quite the same problem, but close.
Hope this helps. |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 04, 2005 - 12:02 pm: |
|
If there is no "clunk" I guess your assumption about the failure being caused by the (missing? defective rotten?) pad is right. This was the case in all of my electros, and it is definitely possible (and easier, I think) to replace it without taking the camera apart. If you search the net you'll easily find out where the pad should be and why it is important that it is there. Try the link underneath for background info.(http://personal.inet.fi/koti/picnet/electro/page_01.htm). |
nathan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 04, 2005 - 02:15 pm: |
|
Thanks for the help, I'll check it out. Just out of curiousity though, what would a clunk mean? |
nathan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 04, 2005 - 02:25 pm: |
|
Oh, forgot to ask, how hard would this repair be for someone with very little technical knowledge?
I'm guessing its called a "pad of death" for a reason right?
I just dont want to get in over my head. Can this be done without sending it off to a repairman who would charge more than what I paid for the cameras in the first place? |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 04, 2005 - 03:33 pm: |
|
In my understanding it is referred to as "pad of death" because that tiny plastic/rubber cushion deteriorates (="dies") one day and the camera with it, because then basic functions (operating switches/contacts) are no longer accurate or possible.
It is not the easiest of the jobs that can be done by non-experts, but ... You have to find out for yourself if you can do the repair on your own.
One has to know one's own limitations; I have not been tinkering with old cameras for a very long time and will stay away from German Synchro Compur shutters or Leicas for ages. On the other hand, if one compares the risk of a complete loss (that is if you mess it up) and what the average would-be camera repair "expert" charges you for a damage repair (believe me I know what I am saying) the answer is: do it yourself. There is nothing to lose from my view. If the camera doesn't work either because it stays in disfunctional condition or you give it a cost-free insufficient repair does not make much difference. Everybody was a beginner one day, even the big names. |
nathan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 04, 2005 - 05:35 pm: |
|
True...I got two of them for free and the other for 30. The way I see it I have 2 test tried before I actually lose 30 bucks.
Very good point.
Thanks guys, I'll take one of them apart and see what I can do. |
Jon Flanders
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 07, 2005 - 06:39 pm: |
|
My method of repairing the pad of death involves taking the top of the camera off, scraping the pad residue off and putting a needle in the side of the replacement pad and inserting it place with a little glue.
You can just reach the pad position over the top of the camera front plate. Leave the camera upside down until the pad glue dries.
It's tricky, but easier than taking the front of the camera apart. |
nathan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 16, 2005 - 03:34 pm: |
|
Oh, forgot to ask, how do you go about getting/making a replacement pad? |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 17, 2005 - 12:17 am: |
|
You can cut it from a piece of semi-rigid plastic or hard rubber. Plastic floor tiles come in different thickness. |
