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Steve T.
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 15, 2005 - 07:03 pm: | 
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I've heard the squeak can be corrected with a CLA, but does it affect shutter speed accuracy? If not, I'd rather not worry about it.
Also, 24mm Canon FD lens. The lens release button seems to be stuck "in". What can be done to correct it?
Thanks very much. |
rick
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 15, 2005 - 09:26 pm: |
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It will not damage your camera, and it does not affect your shutter speeds. what it does do is slow down the action of your mirror, and if left uncorrected it can eventually get to the point where the mirror fails to rise all the way and the camera stops working. You can wait until it stops if you don't mind the squeak.
As for the button on the lens: The button is supposed to be stuck "in" when the lens is not mounted on the camera. Does it stay that way when mounted? |
Steve T.
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 15, 2005 - 09:57 pm: |
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Yes, the button seems to stay in while the lens is mounted. Sometimes the lens will lock properly on the mount, sometimes not. Even when the lens does lock on the mount though, pressing the button will release the lens.
It just seems to me that the button should have some "spring" to it. You know, pop out when the lens is locked onto the mount.
It is possible that the camera and lens haven't been used for a while, I don't know for sure. I got it at an estate sale today.
Thank you for your help, Rick. Much appreciated. |
rick oleson
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 16, 2005 - 09:57 am: |
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You can reach that button by removing the 3 screws around the edge at the rear, then lifting out the silver bayonet plate and then lifting out the black linkage plate. The mechanism is then exposed for you to figure out what's making it stick. You will need to be careful on reassembly to make sure all the little linkage doobies are in the right place when you put the linkage plate back in.
You could also just try dripping a drop of lighter fluid into the crack around the square button (hold the lens pointing up so the solvent won't find its way into it)... if it's just sticking because it's dirty, this may take care of it without disassembly. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 16, 2005 - 10:56 am: |
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Note that the factory really tightened the three screws holding the female bayonet plate.Make sure you use a correctly fitting +point driver which is either new or in perfect condition.Knackering up the screw heads on a 50mm/f1.8 is no big deal,on a 14mm/f2.8L it becomes another matter!The high torque setting used on these three screws by the factory,is quite understandable.It is only the screws that ultimately hold the glass onto the camera,no matter what the focal length or weight of the attached optic.
If the screws are not tight or have mangled heads,then the lens has been got at.The button is sprung by a little coil spring with two extended legs.It is possible to position this spring incorrectly,so it might not just be dirt.If spring is damaged and you want a new one contact me,I have some nFD service parts. |
Steve T.
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, September 16, 2005 - 02:58 pm: |
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Thank you for your help and suggestions. Glenn, I might take you up on that if it needs a spring. |
roger
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2005 - 10:32 am: |
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"It will not damage your camera"
I thought the bearing brake wore oversize if the mirror linkage squeak wasn't lubricated in time, wouldn't that require part replacement or at the least, more frequent lubrication? |
rick
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2005 - 12:41 pm: |
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I suppose anything can wear to the point where it just wears out.... but I've seen these get to the point where the camera stops completely without having done any real damage to the camera. Nothing gets forced or overstressed, it just slows down until it stops. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2005 - 01:55 pm: |
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You will find that the assembly squeaks because the flywheel bearing has already worn to a bell mouthed shape.This causes the flywheel assembly to oscillate on rotation and this causes the squeak when there is no lube.If you try to get a new damper assembly to squeak when there is no lube present,you will find it impossible.
The wear in the bearing is not uniform because the flywheel is at one end of the bearing sleeve.Eventually the wear gets to such a size that it becomes difficult for the wheel to rotate.The film of lube allows the assembly to move by actually filling the gap,when the wheel rotates.
Some very early A1 cameras had the damper seize up when subjected to heavy professional use.This happened to both of my laboratory A1s and I can state categorically that there was no squeak before they failed,the mirrors just got slower.
Not that this now matters,because a drop of ones' favorite unction and the problem goes away. |
Will
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 18, 2005 - 12:18 pm: |
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Is it a genuine bearing, or just a sleeve bushing? I seem to recall the F-1N used mounted ball bearings to reduce friction in the mirror lift assembly and these cameras don't suffer Canon squeak apparently. |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 18, 2005 - 02:57 pm: |
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Not a bearing or sleeve bushing.The gearwheel is steel,non hardened and runs directly on a semihardened ground/polished axle.The brass flywheel is held in position on the gearwheel by excess metal being swaged/riveted over.Other gears in the system are Delrin.It is only the A Series that use an inertia damper of this type.The F-1/N has a very superior build,but look at the old FTB -these will bang away all day,not a squeak in evidence and they just use plane bushings. |
Will
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 18, 2005 - 07:42 pm: |
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Thanks Glenn, I appreciate your answering that for me. |
