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Harlee
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2005 - 02:03 pm: | 
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I've read a number of posts regarding several of the X series of Minolta cameras. Generally, when the shutter refuses to open I've read that the cause occurs when certain capacitors stop functioning and need to be replaced. Today I stopped in at a camera repair facility and asked this same question. He stated that simply replacing the capacitors will not do it and that the motherboard located in the base of the camera also needs replacing. He charges $139.00 to do it. Well, I'm not ready to spend that sort of money even if my 700X is in mint condition. The diods light up in the viewfinder but the shutter won't trip. Would you agree with this repairman? If there are two capacitors, one in the top and one in the bottom, how do you know which one is bad? I don't think I want to get involved in removing the top from my 700X. Crazy question, would replacing the one in the base do anything???
Also, there was a fella who read my post a while back and offered to repair it fo $39.00. Does anyone know who this fella is and what sort of work does he do? Thanks,
Harlee |
Michael Linn
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 20, 2005 - 09:48 pm: |
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Nobody is going to replace the "motherboard" at the base of your X700 for $139. He is just going to do a capacitor replacement at the bottom. The problem is most likely the capacitor and there is plenty of help right here on this board for getting it diagnosed and replaced. Just do a search and you'll find out how to do it. |
Mark
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 21, 2005 - 12:47 pm: |
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I agree with Michael, this repairman must have been looking to make some money. Most likely, he would replace the capacitors, which (unless the camera was exposed to enough moisure to have ruined the printed circuitry) most likely is the cause of such failure. I do nto remember the name of the person that you are refering to, but if you surch the archives, you will find him. As for a source of the capacitors, try Micro Tools (www.microtools.com).. very cheap - about $4.00 for a bag of ten! The are specific for the X-700.
If you DIY, I suggest the following lin taht was passed on to me: http://twid.de/x700 some very good disassembly photos to reference, The removal of the top case is not too complicated, just take your time, and "look before you leap!" I just did one of my X-700's with another repair thrown in to boot! Generaly, if one capacitor is bad, both go, so I would opt to replace both, but that is just mho...Sorry to be so loong winded! Good Luck |
Mark
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 21, 2005 - 12:56 pm: |
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Well, I was a nice guy afterall, and tracked the link down for you:
http://www.garryscamera.com
He does have a lot of good experience with the X-700 in specific. I have not had to send my cameras to him (knock on wood) but I do hear that they do good work. |
Harlee
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 21, 2005 - 03:28 pm: |
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Thank you Mark for finding the website for Garry's Camera Repair. I do recall he was the one who wrote me, but I lost his address. I just wrote Garry for details. Thanks again for your help. If my X-700 were a junker, I'd lift the top myself, but mine is in mint condition and I'd like to keep it that way. ;>) Harlee |
Frank Marshman
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 22, 2005 - 12:36 pm: |
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For all of the above answers to the question: Yes, there could have been a reason to replace the board, however the "mother board" on the 700 series is the flex at the top of the camera, the one on the bottom is just used to operate the magnets. The proble with the caps is that the dialectric material leaks and causes the printed area of the board to short. In the worst case situation the dialectric actually eats the runs off and than those must be jumped.
If the camera passes signal, when the release button is pressed the led display blanks out and doesn't come on that most likely the problem is the release capicator. If the led does not come on at all than it could be the top capicator. If it blinks when the release button is pressed or if it just stays lit than the problem is not a capicator problem but an IC problem.
The easiest way to tell if a cap needs to be replaced is to look at it. If it is tantium than it does not need to be replaced, if it is electrolytic then look at the base to see if there is corrosion or just smell. Leaking capicators stink like cat piss. After the cap is removed wash the board with issopropal alcahol. |
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