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Jani Heikkinen
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2005 - 07:04 am: | 
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Hi everyone!
I need to glue pieces of fabric on a clean brass part with no paint on it. What glue would be the best for this purpose? The fabric needs to be as smoothly flat on the brass as possible so that there won't be any bumps on the fabric caused by the glue underneath. Also I need to be able to move and adjust the fabrics position for a small amount of time when the piece of fabric and brass are already pressed together. Fabric is either cotton or some modern artificial fabric. |
rick oleson
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2005 - 08:25 am: |
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Best for adhesion and smoothness is probably a spray adhesive, which basically is a half-dry contact cement in an aerosol can. It won't allow ANY repositioning though.
Contact cement can be applied and if, instead of waiting for both parts to dry as normal, you put them together slightly wet, you can reposition a little.... but adhesion suffers, and I wonder if the wet adhesive woudln't bleed through the fabric.
Possibly best overall is a dry film pressure sensitive adhesive with a peel-off paper backing. The rubber-based ones are on the tacky side but may permit some repositioning; acrylic based adhesives are less tacky but develop better strength after a couple of days. |
Jani Heikkinen
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2005 - 08:32 am: |
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I have tried different variations of contact cement and they don't work. And the repositioning is a must. Rick, do you have any brand names for the peel-off backing adhesives?
What do you think, would some 2 component epoxy work? There seems to be quite many options available for the repositioning time and viscosity. |
Jon Goodman
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2005 - 09:12 am: |
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Hello, Jani.
I use the finest rubber-based double-sided adhesive on my foam and fabric products. It has an extremely thin center layer, but it is strong. It is rated for use in auto manufacturing...it is of that high quality. There are only two ways to allow repositioning of fabric material that I know of. One: press the fabric into one side of the adhesive and wet the other side of the adhesive before you assemble it. This method gives you time to adjust the fabric before the water dries. After the water dries, the fabric can be pressed down again for the final application. This is the best alternative. Two: wet the fabric with solvent like naphtha or denatured alcohol after you have assembled it. This was is less desirable, because it weakens the adhesive bond somewhat. How much of this do you need?
Jon |
Jani Heikkinen
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2005 - 09:44 am: |
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Hi, Jon.
The double-sided adhesive with water seems like a good idea. What brand do you use? Nearby where I live is a company that sells a large variety of different kinds of glues etc. so I'll probably ask if they have some. I think I will also try out the epoxy too. |
Will
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2005 - 12:58 pm: |
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Jani,
Epoxy should work well provided you put a little scratch on the brass for the epoxy to bite to. Epoxy may seep thru the fabric however. Something to be aware of. Experiment first with all your options.
Will |
Glenn Middleton
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2005 - 04:53 pm: |
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From a manufacturing perspective most fabrics that are supplied for adhesive mounting are bonded to a paper or plastic substrate. This backing 'paper' is bonded using a thin layer, heat sensitive adhesive. The backing is applied not only to make the attaching of the fabric easier but to keep the Warp and the Weft at right angles to each other. If this is not done the fabric will look awful.
I have used the following method to produce quite large pieces of self adhesive fabrics. The actual fixative is double sided tape, but you have to choose carefully if the covered item is going to be handled or exposed to sunlight. If this is the case the DS tape should have UV and oil resistant adhesive on it.
1, Using low tack masking tape laid adhesive side up on a board. Produce a sheet of masking tape about 1" larger than the piece of fabric required.
2, Carefully lay the fabric, outside face down onto the masking tape. Gently press down, ensuring that the warp/weft are properly aligned.
You now have a stable piece of fabric that you can trim roughly to size.
3, Apply the chosen double sided tape to the fabric, press down well with a roller.
4, Cut fabric to required shape.
5, Wet the area you are applying the fabric, a drop of detergent will act as a wetting agent and lay the fabric down. Slide into position being careful not to apply pressure. When in place gently press down from the middle using a rubber roller.
6, Leave until dry and the apply the roller again.
With the correct industrial grade DS tape you will get an almost permanent covering. |
