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Leslie

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Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 08:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have a Super Baldax with 2.8 Ennit in Synchro-Compur but I cannot get a sharp image on ground glass in the film plane. The whole lens/shutter assembly needs to move in slightly, towards the camera body. I would appreciate any help on how that can be done. Many thanks.
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RJ

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Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 01:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Leslie,

Looking at my Super Baldax with a Baldanar lens, the only way it looks like the focal length of the lens could be shortened is either through an impact injury or an attempt to close the lens without the focus ring defaulting on infinity.

Like the Baldanar, the Ennit should have a focal length of 80mm from the imaging plane; when the lens is set at infinity and your bellows are open on maximum fixed extension and a clear image is not visible, then the front focussing cell may be displaced.

If that's the case, sorry can't help.

The alternative set up on a tripod will be to loosen both strut screws hinging the lens at the door, followed by the flange locks on the lens. This will enable you to rock your lens back and forth and then establish a back plane focussing distance for infinity focus. If you can establish an image, then that is good news. All you need to do then, is bend the door hinge locks to this position and rescrew the lens flange locks so that it is no longer possible to extend the bellows beyond this point.

Near-point focussing can then be done through the focussing lever using the extension available between the front cell and the bellows.

If this doesn't work, it may be uneconomical to repair unless you have a particular love for this well-built camera with a lens often rebutted by most.

Kind regards.
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RJ

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Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2006 - 02:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Ennit?

Was that lens influenced by Essex boys.

'Init?
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Leslie

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Posted on Friday, February 03, 2006 - 02:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

RJ,
Many thanks for your useful information. With a sharp image on ground glass at 4ft, the distance scale reads almost 5ft, and to correct that the lens would need to move in 2-3mm. It seems strange that there is no visible means of adjusting the lens to set the focus. There must have been some straightforward way of doing it at the factory. I suspect that the key to doing it is in the notched rings surrounding the focusing barrel, and there are signs of tampering there so perhaps a previous owner has tried, without the proper tools, to do what I am attempting. The camera is otherwise near mint. Best regards.
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RJ

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Posted on Friday, February 03, 2006 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Do you mean the notched groove in front of the gap where the focussing tab is at 1/250th second in this image;

http://www.certo6.com/cam/balda.html

I take it your Balda has a focussing tab? This moves the front focussing cell in its entirety during focussing.

Would recalibrating the rangefinder to match the ground glass for a fixed distance be an easier option at a 'repair'? There
is easier access to the RF system via the screw beside the viewfinder and the two left lateral screws. I suspect the lens adjustment would need to be done by removing the lens and shutter cell from the bellows.

Btw - even the 3 element Baldanar is sharp in its smaller apertures. I've not found it useful for wide-open shooting however the depth of field may be sufficient to correct the discrepancy in focussing cell unit distance and rangefinder distance in my own.

Kind regards,

RJ


Do you mean the notched groove in front of the gap where the focussing tab is at 1/250th second in this image;

http://www.certo6.com/cam/balda.html
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RJ

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Posted on Friday, February 03, 2006 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Do you mean the notched groove in front of the gap where the focussing tab is at 1/250th second in this image;

http://www.certo6.com/cam/balda.html

I take it your Balda has a focussing tab? This moves the front focussing cell in its entirety during focussing.

Would recalibrating the rangefinder to match the ground glass for a fixed distance be an easier option at a 'repair'? There
is easier access to the RF system via the screw beside the viewfinder and the two left lateral screws. I suspect the lens adjustment would need to be done by removing the lens and shutter cell from the bellows.

Btw - even the 3 element Baldanar is sharp in its smaller apertures. I've not found it useful for wide-open shooting however the depth of field may be sufficient to correct the discrepancy in focussing cell unit distance and rangefinder distance in my own.

Kind regards,

RJ
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RJ

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Posted on Friday, February 03, 2006 - 08:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Sorry - haven't got used to posting on this type of forum board...

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