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Berk Sirman
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 14, 2006 - 04:15 am: | 
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Hi
I am working on a very clean Lynx 5000 and the only problem left is the shutter speeds that run slower than normal. I tried applying lighter fluid from the top and it worked but after a few days the problem repeated. I need to take out the mechanism and clean it thoroughly when it is off the camera. How do I remove the escape mechanism? (I hope I a using the right term for the gearbox that determines the delay between when the leafs open and close)
I see some screws there and I troed removing one but the arm connected to the flash sych selector came off and it took me an hour to get it back in place properly. If I remove another wrong screw and disassemble the escape mechanism I am toast. I read someplace that it is a modular design and possible to lift off without taking off individual partsbut I need directions for that.
Thanks,
Berk |
Dan Mitchell
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 14, 2006 - 11:06 am: |
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See the fourth picture down:
http://daniel.mitchell.name/cameras/copalmxv/copalmxv.html
You may not need to remove the retard assembly. Usually putting drops of fluid in the bearings and then blowing it out with compressed air will work. Sometimes I put a tiny bit of light oil on all the bearings, let it sit for a few minutes and then flush it again. The oil seems to help soften whatever gunk is stuck in there. |
Jack
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 14, 2006 - 07:53 pm: |
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For really stubborn shutters and the like, I use a few drops of paint thinner (mineral spirits). It's safe for all plastics I've tried it on, and it won't evaporate as quickly as lighter fluid. It dissolves grease well and provides an extended time for exercising the mechanism.
I also have a Lynx 5000 (not 5000e), and it looks like new. At one time, I cleaned out the shutter and other mechanisms, just like you're doing. I also had to replace the beamsplitter and realign the rangefinder. Quite a bit of work, but it takes beautiful pictures. Much better than the later Electros, etc. I use mine for outdoor fill-flash at 1/1000. I add a couple ND filters, then open up the shutter to f/1.8. That lets me blur the background nicely for portraits, add fill-flash, and still use a shutter speed fast enough to stop action when photographing my daughter. All with a camera from the '60s!
Good luck! |
Berk Sirman
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2006 - 01:27 pm: |
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Dan, Jack
Thank you guys very much. I ordered another spanner wrench to get the rear collar out in order to access the shutter and aperture better. I discovered another problem in the aperture blades and I need to clean them. Cant do it from the front. My small spanner wrench is not strong enough to get that collar out. I tried wetting it with aceton but still could not unscrew it.
Fill flash is the main reason why I want to fix up this camera.
Berk |
Dan Mitchell
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2006 - 05:21 pm: |
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I don't know what Yashica did but the shutter retaining nut on those cameras is always difficult to get off. I have several cameras where the nut is chipped and scratched from getting it out. 
Keep adding a little acetone or lacquer thinner for a day or two to help get it out. |
Dan Mitchell
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2006 - 05:23 pm: |
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Also, in case you haven't done it already, you need to remove the front panel from the camera and cut or unsolder the wiring to the meter in order to get the shutter off. |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 16, 2006 - 12:15 am: |
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The Lynx14 also has a very tight shutter nut. I removed it with a self-made tool, made from a piece of steel sheet approx. 45mm (1 3/4 inch) wide and 2mm (3/32 inch) thick. I filed down the edges at one end until they fitted snugly into the grooves of the shutter nut. Then I put this tool in a vise and pressed the front assembly of the camera strongly down on the tool. With some efforts I managed to loosen the nut. I think it is much too tight for conventional spanner tools. |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 16, 2006 - 08:10 am: |
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Close to that shutter nut there is a round black light baffle around the collar of the rear lens group. On one of the Lynxes that went through my cleaning procedure black goo from that light seal ring had entered the thread and then hardened out. On dismantling I broke one of my improvised spanner tools and then made one of approximately the size of Winfried's from an old oil can opener (very hard steel); anything softer will break or be bent. I also used acetone to soften the black sealing in the thread, then put the well-protected camera in a (wooden) vise and used plumber's pliers to hold the homemade tool tightly when unscrewing the nut; be warned: this is no work for beginners! |
