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Neil B
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 08, 2006 - 11:08 am: | 
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I'm rather fascinated by mechanical cameras (particularly classic 70s SLRs such as the OM1 and Pentax MX, K1000) and would like to learn how they function and how to disassemble and repair them. What's the best way to start? Are there any books outlining the general principles? Or should I just buy a battered old OM1, say, and "sacrifice" it by taking it apart and trying to put it back together again? I've "fiddled" with at least 1 camera I've had in the past, taking it apart as much as I've dared (not very much) and reassembling it. Usually I managed to get it functioning again at the expense of some aesthetic damage... Are the skills you need mostly general to all cameras of the same approximate age and type, or is the most important thing to learn how one particular model works? |
Roy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 08, 2006 - 12:01 pm: |
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Hi Neil.
My advice would be the same as Dr Johnson's to a young man about to get married. Don't! It's addictive!
Roy. |
Neil B
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 08, 2006 - 12:57 pm: |
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Sure, but it doesn't give you liver cirrosis :-)
Should I just dive in with the screwdrivers or is it worth trying to learn some basic skills first? Is there any way these days to do that? |
Roy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 08, 2006 - 02:42 pm: |
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Hi Neil.
True, but it can give you head aches. I've just finished extracting a 1.2 mm screw that I sheared earlier, and I've got a lifetime of engineering experience behind me. Seriously, I started by replacing light seals, with advice and a seal kit from Jon Goodman at Interslice, and any camera of the age you mentioned is likely to need at least that.
The next thing I did was to simply buy a cheap, non-working, camera on E-Bay that I liked the look of then followed up by reading the archives on this forum. If I got stuck, I asked for help on this forum. I also read everything on Google that might help, but obviously a suitable tool kit is essential. The first essential, I found, was a decent set of small screw drivers, mine came from Radio Spares, and I prefer the type with a loose top section that makes it easier to control the tool. Next a set of circlip pliers, followed by a large helping of patience. Information on cleaning, lubricating etc, read the forum. There are even sites on making some special tools on Google, I spent more time at my computer than repairing cameras at first, but it was time well spent.
Some people will say that you will wreck your first effort, I didn't, but I made a pretty thorough mess of the next couple, so I think it important to be prepared for some set backs and not be too disappointed, the parts will always be useful. Hope this helps.
Roy. |
Neil B
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 09, 2006 - 02:21 am: |
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Thanks Roy, that's great. Actually I've already replaced the light seals on my OM1n and succesfully made the diode modification to allow it to take silver oxide batteries, both with kits designed for the purpose. I'm very fond of this camera however, so I need to get another one to experiment on further! I used to have a set of good minature screwdrivers, but they are currently in storage in a different country and the smallest one I can find here is 00 - will I need anything smaller than that? |
Roy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 09, 2006 - 06:19 am: |
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Well, if I didn't put you off the idea let's see what we can do. OO is the smallest reasonably easy screw driver to obtain, that's a Phillips tip not Pozi drive by the way, and I find it OK, but most cameras of any great age use old type straight slots, so you'll need to accomodate those as well. For removal of glass elements there are of course special tools available, I can't comment on them as I use an old set of spring type internal calipers, and they work very well. When using cir-clip pliers to remove polished parts I cover the part with masking tape to prevent any damage to the finish. Many faults I've found, such as sticky shutter leaves, can be cured simply by cleaning with lighter fuel.
Unless you intend only dealing with SLRs I found that rangefinders were easier to learn the basics on, for example, the first camera I repaired was a Yashica J. The shutter leaves were stuck and succumbed to cleaning with lighter fuel brushed onto them and the film advance was jammed. It turned out that one element of the rangefinder had come unstuck and jammed the advance gears. Easy! Also, the more common rangefinders are cheaper.
In addition my basic tool kit includes, super glue, contact adhesive, spray adhesive for re-attaching leatherette, a scalpel, various brushes, cotton buds, lens cleaning cloth, tissues, small files and a digital camera.
Photograph everything! Failing that, drawings, drawings and still more drawings.
That's about it.
Best of luck and if I can help further, just ask, I've only been repairing cameras for about 10 months and I well remember the early problems.
Roy. |
Neil B
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 09, 2006 - 06:32 am: |
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Thanks! |
Jan Dvorak
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 09, 2006 - 11:07 am: |
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Roy forgot to mention a very important part of a tinkerer's equipment. For the realy tough jobs I would recommend a solid chopping block and a heavy sledge hammer.
Jan |
Roy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 09, 2006 - 11:45 am: |
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Hi Jan!
So you've got one as well?
Roy. |
Gary
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 09, 2006 - 10:42 pm: |
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There's a lot of books available on camera repair but most lack the step-by-step detail and illustrations one really needs. Some books should help get you going, hopefully in the right direction. Thomas Tomosy is one of the more prolific authors. If you go to Bookfinder.com and type in camera repair or classic cameras, you should get a few hits for new or used books. There are specialized book & reference dealers out there too but at a price. The EBay auction site has books on camera repair as well. Rick Oleson has an affordable CD about camera repair and a great website with much free information. You can search the Internet for all sorts of articles on camera repair (free downloads on service manuals too) and you will find it's truly amazing what's out there. One can also buy relatively cheap parts cameras & lenses on eBay for $5 or so + postage and tinker with them before working on better items. Trial and error is one way to learn especially on inexpensive parts cameras. The knowledgeable and helpful folks in this forum are another excellent resource, especially as you encounter certain problems. My guess is focal plane shutter replacement will be a major hurdle but fortunately those shutter problems can often be fixed without major surgery (mechanical linkage jams, old foam 'goo' jams, etc.). Some find that electrical & metering circuit troubleshooting is a pain (I'm one) but others like that sort of complexity. As for myself, I find lens cleaning/repair in general and leaf shutter cleaning in particular on 35mm rangefinder cameras to be the least difficult to accomplish (not leaf shuttered 35mm SLRs such as Contaflex though). A high degree of proficiency in camera repair will probably take a few years. A steady hand, patience, proper tools and a good working environment are essential. Take good notes, make illustrations & maybe shoot digital photos as you get into the disassembly process. Good luck! |
Gary
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 09, 2006 - 11:01 pm: |
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I should have added that specialization in camera repair has some advantages but camera collecting / tinkering can become a passion or addiction so to speak and you can easily end up trying to repair many brands, models and types of cameras. Many concepts of camera repair are indeed generic and apply to various cameras. Some cameras however, are so technical, valuable and/or complex that one should properly specialize (Contax II, III, Leica M series for example). But there are some 'old pros' out there who started with one brand and now tackle most but not all popular classic 35mm rangefinder and SLR brands, with seemingly equal ease and proficiency (Mark Hama for instance). It's all up to you. For most of us it's still a hobby and not a job. |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 10, 2006 - 05:34 am: |
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Gary wrote: "For most of us it's still a hobby and not a job", and this, I think, says it all.
Personally, I am not striving for perfection, although I despise repairs carried out in a slovenly manner. I have CLAd, cleaned, repaired several dozen cameras by now, and, of course, I wasn't always as successful as I had imagined or wanted myself to be (I deeply regret the victims of my incompetence: a Ricoh 500G, a QLIII, an Electro 35). But that is what life sometimes is like!
Some trust in god, some believe tuition can save the day, I think the pragmatic approach, that is learning by doing paired off with uncompromising intuition is what it takes, so just start - like so many before you - instead of waiting for some sort of special revelation.
The only way to become experienced is to submerge in real life situations, experience does NOT result from any theoretical pondering things over.
And Gary is also right saying: "It's all up on you." W. |
WernerJB
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 10, 2006 - 05:45 am: |
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Sorry for quoting wrongly. It is "all up to you", of course, W. |
Neil B
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 10, 2006 - 07:17 am: |
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Thanks everyone. I'll get hold of an old (perhaps broken) camera and start tinkering. Electronic shutter timing won't be a problem, as part of the fascination for me is the nearly entirely mechanical nature of cameras such as the OM1, so I'll probably avoid electonic shutters. Good to know that there are some books about! |
Mel
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, May 18, 2006 - 02:28 pm: |
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I recommend placing a large, soft, white cloth on your work table before you start, and work well back from the edge of the table. In this way, a dropped tiny screw probably does not bounce to the floor and can be found on the white cloth. Also, this protects the camera from scuffing. |
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