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Helens
Tinkerer
Username: Helens
Post Number: 11
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 09:03 am: | 
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Is the removal of the Pentax MG's top plate straightforward? I've successfully removed the top plate of a Program A/Program Plus and an original ME - but are there any pitfalls for the unwary with the MG? I notice the rewind knob appears to have a keyed shaft - is it less simple to remove than the usual "screwdriver in rewind shaft and turn backwards" routine?
The problem is that the camera's meter is reading 3 stops fast. There doesn't seem to be an equivalent technique to the ME Super's whizzing the exposure compensation dial to and fro to clean the contacts (which works when needed from time to time for my ME Super and ME F) because all you can do is the lift-and-twist film speed setting on the MG - or of course, there could be another cause entirely for the problem, anyway...
Any pointers would be most appreciated. |
Don
Tinkerer
Username: Don
Post Number: 17
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 02:09 pm: |
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Never worked on 1 as they were'nt too common. Most likely there's a LH cap screw on the wind lever. Might also be a screw holding the rewind cap onto the shaft. W/the top off you can clean the asa dial w/lighter fluid. Check all the wiring w/an ohmeter. Maybe turning the aperture from min - max a # of times might help as the aperture resistor might need cleaning too. If that does'nt help you'll probably have to pull the mirror box to check further. |
Ethostech
Tinkerer
Username: Ethostech
Post Number: 18
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 05, 2006 - 10:10 pm: |
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Removal of the MG top-plate is sequentially as follows:
If the camera is capable of having its shutter uncocked - then make it so, Remove batteries too.
Remove the film advance lever central cap with a rubber tool. It is left-hand threaded so therefore unscrews clockwise.
Also left-hand threaded is the slotted nut now to be seen. Remove this and lift off the advance lever and the wavy washer beneath.
Film rewind knob unscrews conventionally.
Set the ASA to 100 or some arbitary figure which you will remember when it comes to reassembly.
Remove the circlip on the hub. (can be tricky if you don't have a pair of "squeeze to open the points" circlip pliers.)
Lift off the two part ASA dial.
Set the shutter mode dial to Auto.
Remove three visible screws from the top of the top-plate and note their lengths are different. Remove the pair of screws from the rear skirt of the top-plate as at either side of the eyepiece.
The shutter mode dial stays with the top-plate.
The flash-shoe connections are by leaf contact and the top-plate simply lifts away from them. No desoldering necessary.
Only one particular caution to note. The shutter release button has a free floating brass ferrule underside. This is what moves when a cable release is used. It "may" fall out when the top-plate is removed and find its way into the guts of the camera.
Therefore - always ease off the top-plate whilst the camera is flat on its back. Your very first inspection is to confirm that the aforesaid brass ferrule is still captive underside the shutter release button.
Reassembly is the reverse of everything here. |
Helens
Tinkerer
Username: Helens
Post Number: 13
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 06, 2006 - 06:45 am: |
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Thank you Stuart - an excellent walk-through! |
