| Author |
Message |
    
Pinetar
Tinkerer
Username: Pinetar
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 04:06 pm: | 
|
It fails to open completely in slower ranges. I was concentrating on removing the top cover to clean whatever is up there but I see where I should possibly clean from the bottom plate area. Is that correct? Can I just spray in brake cleaner and/or actually try adjustments?
gary |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer
Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 84
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 08:55 pm: |
|
you're risking an awful lot of money spraying brake cleaner into an M Leica. if the slow speeds are sluggish, the timing escapement is up on top between the rangefinder windows - but if the curtains are hanging up i would suspect dirt or a film chip in the shutter gears at the bottom. i don't think you'll get there without removing the body shell. |
Henry
Moderator
Username: Henry
Post Number: 26
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 07:28 am: |
|
Brake cleaner! Yikes! Don't do that. And further, don't screw with the adjustments until you know exactly what the problem is. Leicas have so many adjustments it is easy to get one completely fouled up.
Removing the body shell is a chore, but it looks like you need to. Have caution though. Most Leicas I've opened (especially M's) have been VERY tight. Use only perfectly fitting screwdrivers and flexiclamps.
Henry |
Pinetar
Tinkerer
Username: Pinetar
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 08:08 am: |
|
I took action before anyone responded. I carefully directed a short burst of fluid to the left. After a few minutes the shutter was no longer sticking. However, this morning, it is sluggish again.
I will try low air pressure next. My investment in the body is $100, which is why I am trying a self fix.
Any other tips? |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 73
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 10:03 am: |
|
Bloody hell $100! What's the cosmetic condition like? Unless the thing looks like it has been run over by a truck, a CLA by somebody who knows what he is about would be the best option. I do not think you would be out of pocket if you ever sold it on.
Take note of Henry's comments, all M models are very tight. This applies not only to the torque settings on screwed fasteners, but in the fit of components. Very tight clearances are not conducive to letting debris be 'flushed' out. I would also like to point out that the price I paid for the 'proper' tools to service my M Series, would have more than covered a professional service on my MD.
As you will know the MDa is built on a modified M4 chassis - in fact the last 200ish M4s were built on the MDa chassis (just a bit of useless information). So get yourself a copy of the M4 manual and find out the correct adjustment procedure. At a pinch a copy of the US military M2 Repair Manual will provide a lot of useful guidance.
Sorry if I sound so negative on the self-help route, but the M Series will keep running for ever if it has the occasional proper service. My original M2 purchased second hand in 1964, has never let me down despite a very hard working life. A recent factory refurb has seen the camera passed on to my son, for another 40 odd years hard use. |
Pinetar
Tinkerer
Username: Pinetar
Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 10:42 am: |
|
What do I budget for a cla? |
