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Classic Camera Repair » Archives-2006 » Light meter calibration of a Yashica Lynx 14E or 5000E « Previous Next »

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Reiner
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Username: Reiner

Post Number: 18
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Monday, November 27, 2006 - 02:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

My Yashica Lynx 14E is in nice cosmetic condition and mechanically excellent. The light meter works without flickering. However it is 3 stop off towards overexposure. I have used the right batteries with the right voltage (Mercuries, 2 x 1,35 V)

At the following link I found a hint but not more:
http://feuerbacher.net/photo/frame.html?repair/YashicaLynx14E/YashicaLynx14E.htm l~Main

Does somebody of the forum know how to calibrate the lightmeter of the Lynx 14E (or 5000E)? Does it work by turning the ring with the slits? 3 Stops seems to be a lot to compensate.
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Wernerjb
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Username: Wernerjb

Post Number: 49
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Thursday, November 30, 2006 - 02:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

AFAIK, Reiner, yes, it does. The procedure is the same as with the Y L14 or other cameras with a resistor strip inside the lens barrel like, for example, the Taron Marquis or the Mamiya Super Deluxe. On one of the latter I found the meter was towards underexposure, so I even had to make the slits (a bit) longer (!) to achieve the appropriate needle swing. Are you sure the needle has not previously been bent? Quite often people seem to erraticaly "correct" false readings of the meter by bending the needle, thus making matters worse, W.
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Reiner
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Username: Reiner

Post Number: 19
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Friday, December 01, 2006 - 12:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi Werner.

The Lynx 14E does not have any needle. It has an "Over" and "Under" indication instead. In the meantime I am quite convinced that the key to this problem's solution is not by rotating the slitted ring. There is only one possible position to remount it and only a few millimeters of variation.

Next weekend - with an evenly illuminated gray sky - I shall continue to work on this issue. I shall try to adjust the light meter using the tiny potentiometer under the camera's bottom plate.
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Wernerjb
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Username: Wernerjb

Post Number: 51
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Saturday, December 02, 2006 - 01:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Sorry for that stupid mistake of mine, I know the 14E is something like an advanced 5000E, W.
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Reiner
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Username: Reiner

Post Number: 21
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Monday, December 04, 2006 - 09:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I gave up! I shall forget about this darn light meter and use a handheld meter instead.

Slightly rotating the slitted ring was not the solution - as I expected. However the little potentiometer under the bottom plate did not cause any change either. I have turned the middle connector as much as possible without any succes. I have controlled the effect with an ohmmeter but the light meter was not effected at all.

When I discovered that the Lynx' light meter sometimes shows the same result for bright light as for much dimmer light I gave up. I think the resistant stripes within the slitted ring are used up. They have no signs of corrosion but they seem to be very thin. This is the weak point of all those rangefinders with match needle light meter. An automatic with a rotating hole mask and a needle clamping mechanism is much more durable.

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