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Regomodo
Tinkerer
Username: Regomodo
Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 12:02 pm: | 
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I'm sure this has been posted before but i cannot for the life of me find it after searching.
My Electro 35 (i guess 1st edition as there is no badge like "GSN") is stuck at only Bulb or 1/500 shutter speeds when using it in auto.
I have heard about the pad of death but the button doesn't "clunk".
The next thing i checked was the capacitor, i replaced the 2.7 Tantalum cap with a 2.2 but that made no difference.
The battery is brand new and the "battery test" function is fine.
Any help would be great, thanks. |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 80
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 08, 2007 - 05:15 pm: |
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Replacing the pad is imperative; a quick search in the archives will produce the desired results. This link will probably also be of help: http://personal.inet.fi/koti/picnet/electro/page_01.htm |
Regomodo
Tinkerer
Username: Regomodo
Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 02:48 am: |
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Cheers werner
I have found that site but as my camera didnt make the noise i thought the fault didnt lie there.
The camera is already stripped right down so i'll have a bash at it later |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 81
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 03:30 am: |
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Hi Regomondo, the pad can be reached from the front when only the camera's top cap has been removed. This is to say replacing the pad does not necessarily require knocking the camera down (once you know where it sits all you need is the pad, a needle, fine tweezers and some appropriate glue).
Yashica Guy recommends a different procedure:
http://www.yashica-guy.com/document/repair.html#nine
How come that your camera has a fresh battery? (Mercury cells have been discontinued for quite some time now), W. |
Donnie_strickland
Tinkerer
Username: Donnie_strickland
Post Number: 9
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 08:34 am: |
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Regomodo --
If your camera does not make a clunk, that means the pad is bad. There should be a healthy clunk as you wind the lever. |
Reiner
Tinkerer
Username: Reiner
Post Number: 31
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2007 - 12:38 pm: |
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Donnie ist right.
The absence of the clunk means that the pad has to be exchanged. You should do that at first but I fear there might be more problems with your camera. You should also check the reliability of the battery contacts and the solder junctions near the battery chamber. |
Regomodo
Tinkerer
Username: Regomodo
Post Number: 3
Registered: 01-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 10, 2007 - 12:50 pm: |
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Cheers guys.
I have taken the lens section off the body with no difficulties before so i'll get at the pad that way.
The camera, apart from normal mechanical noises, makes a slight "tap" midway through winding
I checked the contacts and voltages coming out from the battery compartment first when the camera started to play up.
Once i have sorted it out i'll get back. I have to releather my Walzflex too. |
Regomodo
Tinkerer
Username: Regomodo
Post Number: 4
Registered: 01-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 10, 2007 - 12:56 pm: |
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Oh, werner. Just noticed your question. A usual replacement is a 6v alkaline (cant remember the code number for it). Its smaller but you have to fill out the battery compartment so it'll fit. |
Regomodo
Tinkerer
Username: Regomodo
Post Number: 5
Registered: 01-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 02, 2007 - 03:22 pm: |
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Well, eventually got round to sorting out the pad. It's been at the bottom of my priorities (dissertation).
Still doesn't work. I had to desolder the Cap i put in because i got the polarity wrong. The shutter issue is exactly as it was.
About the pad, there wasn't one to speak of when i went to replace it. Used a bit of electronics board (that brown stuff with lots of holes - i forget its name) as it's aprrox 1.5mm thick.
God knows what is wrong with this camera. I suppose that'll teach me for impulse buying |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 99
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 03, 2007 - 01:53 pm: |
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Although there are cameras that cannot be ressurected to full function, I have always found that stubborn systematic analysis of all parts (mechanical and electronic) at least helps to circle in and often detect all the faults one can think of. I had one Y el 35 G that resisted all repair attempts. After a while I got a second similar specimen and managed to amalgamate the two into one perfect camera: an early body plus a black lens including the corresponding electronic unit. Yashica Guy was sceptical about the blend, but it works. Of course, I do not say that cameras from all batches go together.
Quite recently I completed a half rotten Minolta 80's SLR with spares from a derelict body some twenty years older. The "new" camera has lost some features of the newer model, so what? It did that just for the fun of it. Compiling cameras is easier than putting 1000-pieces puzzles together, and a lot cheaper.
So why give up impulse buing?
This hobby of ours simultaneously offers ultimate torture AND pleasure , for a few bucks only. What else on earth is as frustrating AND fascinating at the same time and can be had for close to nothing? |
