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Message |
    
Jcfn
Tinkerer
Username: Jcfn
Post Number: 4
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 25, 2007 - 09:34 am: | 
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Dear all
I have acquired an example of the earliest Electro which has a stuck shutter. I have tried solvent to loosen up the shutter blades but it did not work. Attached is a link to a photo of how far I have gone from the front of the lens.
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jcfngan/detail?.dir=/fc0ere2&.dnm=c2ffre2.jpg&. src=ph
To get inside the shutter I suspect I need to remove the 3 rings (highlighted by the green, blue and red arrows). My question is how do I do it? It looks like I can't remove the outer aluminium mode dial (red arrow) without removing the stainless steel inner ring (blue arrow) as the former has two contact bushes partially stuck under the latter. I have already removed all the lens elements from the front and have access to the shutter blades.
I have seen photos of how the shutter of later Electros (M Feuerbacher's site and the factory service manual of the Electro GTN) can be accessed but this earliest Electro is different from them.
Any help will be appreciated. |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 86
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 25, 2007 - 12:31 pm: |
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The same thing happened to me, as the front lens cell did not come out as a whole but element after element instead. Your assumption about removal of the rings is right. As far as I recall the matter it was not easy to remove the steel ring, as it has no notches. One method (once recommended in a Canonet repair article) is to drill two holes in it and use a spanner tool to unscrew it.
Why do you want to go any deeper if you have direct access to the blades?
I was not able to repair the shutter because of the many wires that were in the way and I lost one of the washers of the blade setup. This is to say one has to be very careful while taking apart the shutter/ aperture assembly.
The body and many components of the camera including parts of the lens went to other Yashica repair projects, W. |
Greyhoundman
Tinkerer
Username: Greyhoundman
Post Number: 8
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 25, 2007 - 02:12 pm: |
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The only way to get the lens housing out now, is to drill two small holes and unscrew it with sharpened needlenose pliers or spanner.
You still will not get any closer to the blades.
You will reach the shutter gearing, but not the blades. They can only be reached by total dismantle of the lens, and removing them from the rear. |
Jcfn
Tinkerer
Username: Jcfn
Post Number: 5
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, January 25, 2007 - 05:11 pm: |
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Thanks to Wernerjb and Greyhoundman.
No amount of fiddling with the shutter cocking shaft and the shutter lever coupling arm (both located behind the lens board) can unstick the shutter blades. That's why I want to get to the shutter gearing which could be the source of the problem.
I will see if I can find a small drill bit for stainless steel. |
Greyhoundman
Tinkerer
Username: Greyhoundman
Post Number: 10
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, January 26, 2007 - 05:47 am: |
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That black lens housing is not SS steel. Some are brass, some are aluminum.
You'll need some Ronsonal to clean the blades with at any rate. |
Jcfn
Tinkerer
Username: Jcfn
Post Number: 6
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 01, 2007 - 06:33 am: |
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I re-cleaned the shutter blades with q-tips and much larger amount of solvent and the shutter started working again except the secondary set of shutter blades (behind the primary blades seen from the front) which are a bit slow in retracting when I fire in bulb mode. The shutter seems fine at 'normal' shutter speeds in A mode. Further cleaner is required.
I now have another problem. After replacing the top and bottom plates with the batteries (a new C123A+LR44x2) installed I found the batteries completely drained the following day. My question is, is this a known problem on this model?
I have a suspicion that it could be the battery test light switch as I could see the bulb glow very faintly without pressure on the switch as soon as I installed the new batteries. Maybe there is a short in the mechanisim. Has anyone encountered this before? |
Greyhoundman
Tinkerer
Username: Greyhoundman
Post Number: 11
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, February 01, 2007 - 07:28 am: |
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Corrosion in the test switch. It allows battery drain. Also the pad of death can cause battery drain. This is due to the switch fingers inside not being kept in the right position. |
Jcfn
Tinkerer
Username: Jcfn
Post Number: 7
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 - 06:30 am: |
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Update: After further cleaning of the shutter blades the shutter appears to work fine.
As for the battery drain it was down to the loose mode selector ring. Once I replaced the lens and retainer ring assembly the problem disappeared!
However it now exhibits a new problem. In A mode when I fire the shutter it appears to fire at the default 1/500s setting regardless of how dark the condition is (at iso100, F5.6, say). Subsequent shutter releases appear to give correct (and much slower) shutter speeds. The batteries (CR123+LR44x2) are new and the battery test green light supports this.
This invariably affects only the first one or two times I fire the shutter every time I pick up the camera. Subsequent shutter releases seem to work fine.
Any idea? |
