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Adrian
Tinkerer
Username: Adrian
Post Number: 39
Registered: 08-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 28, 2007 - 10:10 am: | 
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I know they are often a drag to get the camera out of, hence the term "never ready", but as someone who tends to cart his cameras around in pockets or in a bicycle pannier I need the extra protection! That and it's nice to use the same case that has protected it for fifty years.
I've got a couple of ERCs in need of love and attention, and specifically the top of the case is coming away from the bottom as the thread gives way. On one the cardboard inner is not glued onto the underside of the leather, so this should be an easy stitching job. However the bottom of this case, and the top of the other, appear to have been stitched, then had an inner piece of card glued on. If you think that that is heavy duty, I have an Argus C3 case which actually has pieces of wood holding it in shape!
Anyway, rambling aside, the real question is this: Has anyone any useful hints for seperating the cardboard from the leather? I guess I could use a scalpel or similar to carefully split the glued joint, I'm just wondering if there is an easier way.
Thanks in anticipation,
Adrian |
Dneumann
Tinkerer
Username: Dneumann
Post Number: 3
Registered: 11-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 28, 2007 - 06:32 pm: |
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The easiest way is to get somebody else to do it. I took a Zeiss Ikon case to a shoe repair place and had it restitched for only $15. It seems like a little much, but the case was in pieces and all the stitching had to be done by hand. It turned out very well. |
Adrian
Tinkerer
Username: Adrian
Post Number: 41
Registered: 08-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2007 - 10:25 am: |
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Well, that is a tempting option! However, I had an explore and in fact the case is not stitched through the cardboard at all. It is not the easiest of sewing jobs - especially if you sew like I do - as the original was machine-stitched with two threads interlocking, one from the top and one from the side. I think you'd need to be a very good needleworker to replicate that by hand! However with a steady hand and a stiff needle it is possible to make a repair that looks ok and will keep the case together for a few more years.
Adrian |
John_cribbin
Tinkerer
Username: John_cribbin
Post Number: 7
Registered: 08-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 14, 2007 - 04:45 am: |
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Have a look at the following link, I've only repaired one case this way, but it worked a treat.
http://www.stereoscopy.com/cameras/re-stitching.html |
Adrian
Tinkerer
Username: Adrian
Post Number: 42
Registered: 08-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 14, 2007 - 11:00 am: |
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Wow! If only I'd seen that before I started! Thanks John, one to print off!
Adrian |
John_shriver
Tinkerer
Username: John_shriver
Post Number: 20
Registered: 12-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 02, 2008 - 08:01 pm: |
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I use one needle -- a sewing machine needle in a pin vise, and two threads, doing the interlocking threads by hand. Waxed linen thread works easiest. It is tedious.
I once brought a leather portfolio to a shoe repair place for restitching -- he didn't keep the machine running at the same stitch length as the original, made a rather ugly mess. Other shoemakers may be better... |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 262
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 03, 2008 - 03:34 pm: |
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Here in the UK there is a small hand-tool that will produce a lock-stitch in leather, or other thick materials. The tool consists of a hollow handle, containing a spool for the waxed thread, onto which is fastened a collet chuck to hold standard sewing machine needles. The tool is basically a modified pin vise, and one could easily make a replica from this basic engineering tool.
The devise works on a modification of the 'two needle' method. The tool is worked from one side of the stitch line, you pull a free length of thread through the first hole and this is used to work the rear of the stitch. The tool will also hold curved needles, which can be useful when you are trying to restitch a case side and bottom together. Curved needles can be made from the straight variety, by heating and re-tempering.
In repairs using the original needle holes, the stitching rate is very quick and easy. When stitching new materials/stitch lines, more care is required to produce even stitch patterns. The use of a star-wheel pricker should be used, to lay out the stitch lines before hand.
To get the best leather repair tools look for a saddler/tack maker, or a supply house that caters for their needs. |
M_currie
Tinkerer
Username: M_currie
Post Number: 104
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 03, 2008 - 08:53 pm: |
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I think you can still get the gadget that Glenn describes here in the US too. I can't remember the brand -something like "Speedy Stitcher," I think - but it used to be pretty inexpensive. It can be hard to get the loop to form properly if the thread isn't matched to the needle groove, and the needles are a little large for some camera cases, but when it's all working right it makes a really good lock stitch. I've restitched a couple of old Leica cases with one in the past. |
Clay
Tinkerer
Username: Clay
Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 04, 2008 - 10:50 am: |
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Here in Canada Radio Shack/Tandy leather had the
stitching Awls. Radio Shack is now split into
two other companies. Tandy is still going in the U.S. I believe.
/Clay |
Contax_crisis
Tinkerer
Username: Contax_crisis
Post Number: 6
Registered: 08-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2008 - 05:18 pm: |
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I've just cut up my never ready case:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26368665@N06/2778729669/in/photostream/
The vintage worn case has some great character. Without the flap cover, I find the half-case holders seem more practical to use. Unfortunately a collector will probably take a very dim view of this kind of practice ;) |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 493
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 14, 2009 - 11:18 am: |
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No definitely not! As no 'proper' cars were built after 1930, how can a company that only lists modern rubbish produced after 1935 be of any help to me? I also very much doubt that you have experienced the problem being discussed on this thread.
Somebody please put that blatant advert in the trash where it belongs - not the first time that this has appeared on the Forum. |
Chiccolini
Tinkerer
Username: Chiccolini
Post Number: 12
Registered: 06-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, June 27, 2009 - 06:20 pm: |
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My case repair method is to Elmer glue the edges together wiping away any excess. Works a lot better than it sounds. Use rubber bands to hold it all together until it dries. I remove any old stitching that is hanging. |
Dgillette4
Tinkerer
Username: Dgillette4
Post Number: 295
Registered: 04-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 29, 2009 - 08:53 am: |
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How about a replacement case? Got one let me know if you are interested. Don |
Tom_cheshire
Tinkerer
Username: Tom_cheshire
Post Number: 86
Registered: 04-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 23, 2009 - 06:35 pm: |
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Oh, just get one of those hand stitcher devices sold at leather shops. Go to a Tandy and let them show you how to do it. |
