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Kmier
Tinkerer
Username: Kmier
Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2007 - 04:12 pm: | 
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After refoaming and sealing my camera, I felt compelled to remove the top cover to check the mounting of the light sensor. I am having difficulty understanding just how the top and front covers come off. In my zeal to undertake this job, I have created two problems:
a) the two small round brass nuts that secure the small black rectangular plastic pieces (side of lens base) have fallen inside somewhere.
b) when I lifted the black plastic aperature ring from the body, the knotted string slipped out of the slot, and disappeared inside.
As you can see, I've gone beyond my skill level, here, and I need some professional guidance. I downloaded the parts schematic, but it is not really helpful. How do I remove the film advance and rewind controls? It looks like a tiny spanner wrench is required on the rewind base. I see no possible means of removing the film advance lever assembly.
Thanks in advance.
Ken Mier |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer
Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 298
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2007 - 04:35 pm: |
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Oops!
It does sound like you've gotten yourself in kind of deep. I have some sketches for SRT disassembly, which include the routing path of that little string, but actually getting it back where it was may be a trick. I don't know if they will be a lot of help, but maybe between these and the schematic that you have you can get it figured out. my email is rick_oleson@yahoo.com if you'd like them.
The chrome ring around the shutter release button is a threaded nut that holds the wind lever on. I use a wooden dowel with one end covered with double-sided foam adhesive tape to unscrew this: WIND THE SHUTTER FIRST, then press this down firmly and twist counterclockwise to loosen the ring. The shutter will release while you're pressing down, ignore it and keep going.
For the disc under the rewind knob, a spanner is the best tool; you can buy one from www.micro-tools.com, they have several styles to choose from. Another way that I use a lot is to get a cheap long-nose plier, and grind the ends of the jaws to fit the slots in the disc. You have to be careful not to let it slip as you use it, but it's quicker and cheaper. |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 160
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 02:38 am: |
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The screws will reappear (I hope) when shaking the camera a little when the top cap is off. Remounting the string(s) is not so easy, especially if you do this kind of job for the first time. But there is one thing you can be sure of: it is possible even for unskilled people to successfully get everything back together again! The complete dis-/reassembly manual for the (very similar 101) is here: http://www.iespana.es/bowman/minoling02.html |
Kmier
Tinkerer
Username: Kmier
Post Number: 2
Registered: 06-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 05:15 am: |
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Thank you, Rick and Wernerjb:
I have downloaded an ebay version of the SRT-101 repair manual, and found a page that was somewhat helpful for the re-stringing job [wouldn't you know it, while shaking the camera upside-down, the top rewind spool fell off and dangled by the strings, leaving me with very few re-assembly clues!!].
I think I have it back around the proper pulleys per the manual, and I believe my next step is to remount the aperature ring / bayonet mount and install a 50mm lens. Then I can check all functions prior to remounting the top cover. that is, assuming I can temporarily mount shutter / asa assembly.
Does this seem to be a reasonable approach? Assuming I have the re-stringing done properly (no knots were un-tied / re-tied), should I need any adjustments? Finally, is there anything I should lightly lubricate while I'm in there????
One thing for certain, I'm left thoroughly impressed with 30 year-old Japanese technology!! And its manufacture was just 30 years after WWII decimation. And I thought vintage Honda motorcycles were complex until I opened this baby up!!!
Thanks,
Ken Mier |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer
Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 300
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 10:44 am: |
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If you get it all restrung correctly, you shouldn't need to adjust anything (assuming it was right before). That's a pretty big "if", though. The pulleys are spring-loaded and have a great desire to go PTWANG at the slightest provocation. |
Kmier
Tinkerer
Username: Kmier
Post Number: 3
Registered: 06-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 03:49 pm: |
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Everything is back together properly!!
Thanks, guys. |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer
Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 301
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2007 - 07:38 pm: |
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I'll bet that was accompanied by an audible "WHEW".
go have a beer and celebrate
: ) = |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 161
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 10:40 am: |
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Congrats! Maybe I was a bit thoughtless to tell you to shake the camera to get the nuts out before you secured the parts on the right underneath the top cap (I usually use the screw around the rewind shaft for that purpose), but I simply was too eager to help solve that first problem, W. |
Kmier
Tinkerer
Username: Kmier
Post Number: 4
Registered: 06-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 11, 2007 - 06:37 pm: |
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Wernerjb,
I would have never uncovered that wonderful lesson in pulley ratios, if I hadn't done the careless camera shake!!! I wasn't about to give up on the repair, even though I could easily EBAY another SRT-201 for very little cash.
I'll look at this camera a little differently from now on...
Thanks for the help.
Ken |
