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Khedges1
Tinkerer
Username: Khedges1
Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 05:20 pm: | 
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How hard is it to clean and lubricate the settings dials on the body of a Pentax ME Super? Is this something I could do without previous camera repair experience? I've worked on big things like cars, dishwashers, and sewing machines but nothing this delicate.
I got a Pentax ME Super at the St. Vincent de Paul for $5 with a 50mm f2.0 lens. I ran a roll of film through it, and it seems to take good photos at a variety of shutter speeds and apertures. The lens operates smoothly, although it seems to have some internal dust. The foam is shot, but messages on this board pointed to where I can get a foam replacement kit on eBay. That's the good news.
The bad news is, the dials (ASA, exposure compensation, mode) feel really gritty. I found a service manual online, but it's clearly intended for someone with experience--not like a do-it-yourselfer's Haynes or Chilton auto repair manual. Various posts warn about the difficulty of dealing with all the fiddly bits inside these cameras.
(Foam replacement kit link: http://cgi.ebay.com/The-Finest-Complete-Camera-Light-Seal-Foam-Kit-PROOF_W0QQite mZ110142260780QQihZ001QQcategoryZ30038QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Price is now $9.99 + $2 s/h.) |
Donnie_strickland
Tinkerer
Username: Donnie_strickland
Post Number: 27
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 07:32 pm: |
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Sometimes you can work the dials a lot and they will free up to a large extent, but if they are really dirty they should be removed and cleaned.
There are very few circumstances where they would ever need any kind of lubrication at all, as unnessecary lubrication tends to cause more problems than it solves.
Use the service manual, work slowly and carefully, and use the proper tools. If you are unsure about something, stop. Ask lots of questions. |
Khedges1
Tinkerer
Username: Khedges1
Post Number: 2
Registered: 06-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 11:32 pm: |
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Thank you for your reply. The dials feel GRITTY, not just stiff. I don't want to do a lot of damage with abrasion inside. Perhaps this is part of why the camera was at St. Vinnie's (as well as being a film camera without autofocus).
I'm having some difficulty understanding what do do based on the service manual, partly because it starts out saying "This camera is really similar to Model XYZ so we will not go through a detailed breakdown procedure..." So should I find the manual for the earlier model (presumably the Pentax ME?) and study it? Would it help to get one of the general camera repair books? |
Khedges1
Tinkerer
Username: Khedges1
Post Number: 3
Registered: 06-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 11:45 pm: |
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I should've waited to post that. Can't edit or delete to update, sorry.
Well, I looked at the other manual, and it seems to list the order in which one should remove various assemblies. When I start taking it apart, will it be obvious how to get things off and which parts are full of crud and need cleaning?
Here's the beginning of the disassembly procedure:
Disassembly Procedure
1. Self-timer charge lever assembly (0-A118)Self-timer screw left-handed (A122)
231K-H50
2. Body Covering, left and right (A19, A20)
3. Install self-timer lever assembly (0-A118) temporarily.
4. Bottom cover assembly (A400) CSS 1.7 x 2.8 x 3
Connector seat (A23), R button (C117)
5. Winding lever assembly (0-C69)
Cover screw (C139) 23600K-C135-A (left handed)
Winding lever nut (C8) 23600K-C134-A2
Cover ring (A321)
and so on.
I suppose if I wreck it, I haven't lost that much... |
Khedges1
Tinkerer
Username: Khedges1
Post Number: 4
Registered: 06-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 11:56 pm: |
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Well, I'm hoping this procedure covers what I need.
https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/pentaxmeramblings.html
Thanks again! |
Donnie_strickland
Tinkerer
Username: Donnie_strickland
Post Number: 28
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 25, 2007 - 11:06 am: |
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You are on the right track. Henry's article gives you a very good idea of what to look for.
Remember --remove the battery before starting any work!
Be careful on disassembly -- watch for any small parts that could fall off when you remove the top cover. It should then be fairly clear where you need to clean. I like to use "canned air" for these types of jobs (just try to avoid blowing dirt or grit furthur inside the camera body); cotton swabs and lighter fluid also can be handy.
Sounds like you're making progress -- remember, this is fun!  |
Khedges1
Tinkerer
Username: Khedges1
Post Number: 5
Registered: 06-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 07, 2007 - 10:15 pm: |
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I'm not having any luck with my homemade friction screwdriver to remove the winding lever. The notes mention it is a left-hand screw. Would it be a good idea to use "Liquid Wrench" to loosen this, or could it damage something? I'm thinking to use a small brush to apply it where capillary action would draw it under the fastener on top. |
Ethostech
Tinkerer
Username: Ethostech
Post Number: 71
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 07:38 am: |
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ALERT.
You don't need to remove the Self-Timer Lever or the front panel leatherettes. All you need is to remove the camera's top plate.
You probably have a grain or two of sand in the ASA track/gold-plated wiper assembly. You are right that such would destroy the efficacy of such unless it is cleaned out.
Remove the obvious screws and place them in a pattern so you know which go back where - because there are different lengths.
The shutter dial stays with the top-plate so no disassembly there. Essentially you need only remove the film advance lever and the circlip around the film-rewind shaft.
The LH threaded film advance lever capping disc has quite a small diameter male thread beneath - and this is easily sheared off. You are then in deep trouble. That capping disc is sometimes difficult to shift but excessive force is risky.
To break the stick, trickle a half drop of WD-40 into the edge gap and leave overnight. Throughly clean off in the morning and try again with your rubber tool. If it doesn't free with a good heave-ho ...then repeat the WD-40 process and try again next day. It will come free.
Note that there is a brass inverted "top-hat" insert underside the shutter release button. It usually stays in place but be alert for it falling out when you lif off the top-plate.
Set the ASA and exposure compensation to some arbitrary numbers and make a note of those numbers so that you can position all easily and correctly upon reassembly.
Be very careful with the ASA track wipers. They are delicate and it can be a sod to correct any accidental distortions. The "grit" will be either on the flat track OR beneath the rotating black scale. No lube is needed. Just clean with gasoline.
Watch carefully the position and orientation of everything you remove. And have the shutter dial set at "AUTO".
Piece of cake if you go careful.
Hope this helps. |
