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Ben_hutcherson
Tinkerer
Username: Ben_hutcherson
Post Number: 44
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 08:58 am: | 
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A few months ago, I sent one my Canon F-1Ns to a reputable repair person to have a CLA done. In the course of the CLA, he replaced all of the light seals, including the door seals.
When I received it back, the door seals wouldn't stay in place-they came loose every time the door was open.
I replaced them again myself using some seal strips from Jon Goodman's kit, being very careful to keep them straight and stuff them down in the door as well as I could. I used the same procedure I've used on several other cameras, all of which are still holding well. They still won't stay in place, though.
I'm hesitant to use an adhesive, but I don't know of what else to do. Does anyone have any suggestions? If I need to use an adhesive, what adhesive would be best?
Thanks,
Ben |
Donnie_strickland
Tinkerer
Username: Donnie_strickland
Post Number: 17
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 09:25 am: |
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Ben -- are you talking about the seal strips on the camera body itself? You say you keep stuffing them "down in the door"...
If so, I would suggest a tiny tiny tiny bit of contact cement in 2 or 3 places on each seal strip.
I too have used Jon's kit on many cameras but I have never had this problem. But I haven't done an F-1N either. |
Jan
Tinkerer
Username: Jan
Post Number: 25
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 09:58 am: |
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I use a "tiny tiny" drop of white paper glue in strategic spots of the camera body groove to hold the strip down. I have to wait until it dries to close the door - this where contact cement would be a better choice.
Most of the time the strips stay in the groove, held by friction. In very rare instances did I have to resort to glue - mainly where the grooves were relatively shallow or, if I cut the strips too thin.
Best,
Jan |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 130
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 12:07 pm: |
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No more plastic foam "falsies" for me, please!
Motto: cheapest is best. In almost all of my old cameras (except the ones I do not use for picture taking) I have replaced the gooey foam light seals by various textile materials (black cotton strings cut to measure, velvet cotton cloth, etc) and have developed a method of sparingly adding contact glue (the one used for reglueing leatherette, by the way) to those strings, etc.
I have never had problems with any light leaks or loose seals, and with a bit of practice one cannot even see that glue was used to put the seals in place used, W. |
Hovaness
Tinkerer
Username: Hovaness
Post Number: 39
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 07:25 pm: |
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A drop of Pliobond works for me. |
Fiftyfifty
Tinkerer
Username: Fiftyfifty
Post Number: 14
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 11:38 pm: |
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Ben
I have just checked my Canon F1n and there is NO seals on the door, the seals are on the body. I have just checked the parts list and can not find a light seal on the door, so it is possible that your repairer was wrong to put a seal on the door.A email to Jon goodman may solve your problem.
Best of luck.
Doug |
Ben_hutcherson
Tinkerer
Username: Ben_hutcherson
Post Number: 45
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 05:57 am: |
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Sorry, I should have clarified-I'm talking about the grooves that run across the top and bottom of the body into which the door fits. I tend to always call these the door seals, although I realize that's probably somewhat ambiguous.
Anyway, thanks for the suggestions. I'll try a couple of small dabs of contact cement and see if that works. |
Charlie
Tinkerer
Username: Charlie
Post Number: 63
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 08:57 am: |
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Werner, do you have any problems with small fibers being worn off and getting loose in the camera? |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 132
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 11:36 am: |
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No, never. I tried various materials incl. precut foam strips (NOT J. Goodman's, his strips have a good reputation, I think). But the ones I tried (still available in Europe) were neither worth the money, nor do I like the smart-ass style by which the seller advertises his stuff.
When one day I repaired my father's old folder (a camera type in which I usually take only little interest) I saw the film door seals were textile (cotton) strings, and this made me try the same matrial in both RF and SLR cameras. For mirror "bumpers" and inside (!) Minolta SLRs I have used film cartridge seals and other velvet-like cloth (the above mentioned seller does not even mention there are inner seals to be replaced, but nowaday I guess you cannot expect too much of would-be experts), W. |
Donnie_strickland
Tinkerer
Username: Donnie_strickland
Post Number: 18
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 12:19 pm: |
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Good information, Werner. This is why I (and so many others) use Jon Goodman's kits.
As for myself, I too prefer the use of the "black velvet" type material whenever possible. |
Airds
Tinkerer
Username: Airds
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 07:29 pm: |
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Door seals
Jon's seal strips for the body grooves work fine here - without any adhesive - on lots of, mostly Canon cameras. You aren't locating them incorrectly around 90°?
If you look closely, there is a different finish to the pairs of sides on the strips - check some of the relevant images in some of his tutorial pdf files here and you'll see one of the shinier/glossier (non-foam textured) sides face out. It's always a neat 'press' fit into each groove....
He says he designed if "so the pressure of the seal material against the side walls keeps it in place perfectly".
I'm sure he won't mind me posting these images and hopefully are of use.
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Olly_ympus
Tinkerer
Username: Olly_ympus
Post Number: 3
Registered: 08-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 14, 2007 - 09:51 am: |
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Just used Mr. Goodman's foam on a pair of OM 2s I own that needed it bad. The bottom strip on one body wanted to pull out every time I opened the door, so I used a very tiny amount of rubber cement in that area and it has been fine ever since. The key of course is to use any type of glue VERY sparingly. |
F16sunshyn
Tinkerer
Username: F16sunshyn
Post Number: 12
Registered: 05-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 14, 2007 - 11:23 am: |
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I have begun to use a chenile (hope that is spelled correctly) yarn. It is a synthetic material and lintless. If you streach it as you push it into grooves it becomes quite thin. Then after release it expands back to it's normal diameter holding itself in place. The material you should look for is quite velvety similar to the feel of 35mm canister seals. My mom actually was knitting with some of this stuff several years ago thats how I discovered it. I used to use cotton yarn. This stuff works better. Now after several years of not failing or falling out I recommend it. Carefull what size you get. If to large a diameter door closing becomes tight. In USA it is easily found at Micheals art and craft supply stores. |
Jon_goodman
Tinkerer
Username: Jon_goodman
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 21, 2007 - 06:19 pm: |
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Thanks, guys, and sorry for the delay in replying. Had some trouble with my password. If you'll install the 2mm pre-cut strips with the glossy side facing outward, making sure not to let them twist or flip over and...here is the important part...clean the film door edges very very well...they'll stay in place indefinitely. If there is any of the old sticky foam on your film door edges, this will cause trouble with anything you put in there. And while I'm not a fan of yarn, it will work.
Jon |
Olly_ympus
Tinkerer
Username: Olly_ympus
Post Number: 25
Registered: 08-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 21, 2007 - 10:49 pm: |
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I just learned that my problem was in fact due to a minuscule speck or two of the old foam that I had missed. It doesn't take much!
This reminds me that I need to order another one of your kits very soon. :-) |
Mkitt
Tinkerer
Username: Mkitt
Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2007 - 11:44 am: |
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I had the same issue with the "door" seals on an OM10. The "opening" end of the top seal kept pulling away when the door was opened. Turned out that it simply wasn't pushed far enough into the slot. Once I had very carefully ensured that it was firmly seated it was fine.
I used Jon Goodman's seals and tool which are excellent (so long as you take a bit more care than I initially did!) |
