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Olly_ympus
Tinkerer
Username: Olly_ympus
Post Number: 15
Registered: 08-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 19, 2007 - 08:31 am: | 
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Sorry if this is a redundant question,...but I've been searching these forums all morning for the answer to this simple question.
What lubricant is best for the workings of my 35mm SLRs?
I have an Olympus OM1 torn apart on my table right now that refused to advance the film and cock the shutter. After taking the film advance mechanism off the top, I found old lube on the gear assembly underneath had dried up and caked. Cleaned it out and got the mechanism to work again, but before I put it back together I of course need to re-lubricate.
What's the best stuff? |
Dgillette4
Tinkerer
Username: Dgillette4
Post Number: 68
Registered: 04-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 19, 2007 - 10:05 am: |
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Well the best is the rarest and most expensive, which was sperm oil, it was used on watches but there may be a new one to replace it. I have used tri- flow oil but very very sparingly. Also it depends what part of the camera you want to oil. The transport needs a heavier lube like moly or lubriplate aero, on the high torque cams. The clock timer I take a pin point of silicone to each pivot being careful to take a q-tip to remove any excess.also clean any meter pulleys and just a pin drop of silicone on the pivots there. I never use any wd40 or any oil that may gum up. Good luck Don |
Olly_ympus
Tinkerer
Username: Olly_ympus
Post Number: 16
Registered: 08-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 19, 2007 - 10:18 am: |
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Thanks for the tips, Don. I know Olympus used some kind of special lube that would withstand temperature extremes, I think that is why so many OM-1s have survived to this day. The camera I'm working on was serviced at one point in it's life, and it seems they used the wrong stuff. Now off to the store I go for something better,..... |
Mikel
Tinkerer
Username: Mikel
Post Number: 47
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, August 21, 2007 - 06:47 pm: |
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The latter day replacement of whale oil is Nyoil, which can be sourced from Micro Tools in the US and Europe. It is the oil you use in very tiny amounts on small parts that are moving very quickly. It is the ideal solution to the Canon and Contax (139) squeal. I have had a small bottle for many years and I have used perhaps 20% of it. It will be around after I am gone and it will still be in good condition. |
Puderse
Tinkerer
Username: Puderse
Post Number: 11
Registered: 09-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 22, 2007 - 07:05 am: |
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Years ago I found a quart paint can with a GI lable on it saying that it was a grease for USAF aircraft instruments suitable for high altitudes and low temperatures. I have used it for everything from cameras to fishing reels. Never for truck wheel bearings. Anyway, in all these years I have only made a small dent in the top of the grease. It may last several lifetimes. Not a bad deal for $0.25. |
Polaski
Tinkerer
Username: Polaski
Post Number: 11
Registered: 08-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 03, 2007 - 11:52 am: |
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Different lubricants for different parts. Check a Graflex repair manual and you'll get an idea. |
Verduzcor
Tinkerer
Username: Verduzcor
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 05, 2007 - 08:49 am: |
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Have you tried grafito in the thinniest expression? It'll work in some parts, working sliding against each other, never get locked.
Some experience with silicone lube for printers in the head's sliding rod? I use it in some others tiny fixtures. |
