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Focal7175
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Username: Focal7175

Post Number: 9
Registered: 08-2006

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Posted on Thursday, December 27, 2007 - 05:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have a Fujica ST-801 that I'm trying to remove the top cover from. It seems a previous owner has epoxied the screws into the body (!). There is absoultely zero clearance (true, I'm afraid) between the screw head and the camera body, so Naphtha, WD40, and PB Blaster have all failed to loosen anything because they simply cannot soak into the threads.

The screw head is starting to strip, so I'm reluctant to try anything that won't work.

Doesa anybody have any suggestions?

Thanks
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Focal7175
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Username: Focal7175

Post Number: 10
Registered: 08-2006

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Posted on Thursday, December 27, 2007 - 05:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Oh, I've also tried Liquid Wrench. No effect, presumably because it cannot reach the threads
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 248
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Thursday, December 27, 2007 - 06:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

You need to apply a bit of heat. Get an electric soldering iron and file the tip down, so that it is a good fit on the screwhead. Apply the tip to the screw for long enough to warm up the threadlock, then use a good fitting screwdriver to break the screw free.
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Focal7175
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Username: Focal7175

Post Number: 11
Registered: 08-2006

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Posted on Friday, December 28, 2007 - 08:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Glenn, I tried that this morning but it did not work. Based on the earlier screw that I did manage to remove, this is not a threadlock-type glue - it's a paste-based epoxy.

Any other suggestions?
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Rick_oleson
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Username: Rick_oleson

Post Number: 466
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Friday, December 28, 2007 - 10:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If it's really epoxy, I can't think of any solvent that will soften it.... the only chance I can think of is more heat - enough to destroy the polymer.
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Wernerjb
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Username: Wernerjb

Post Number: 228
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Friday, December 28, 2007 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I had to solve a similar problem not so long ago, heat and acetone (applied with cotton swabs) did the trick, no quick job, though. W.
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Pablomartinez
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Username: Pablomartinez

Post Number: 85
Registered: 09-2006

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Posted on Sunday, December 30, 2007 - 10:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

As Werner says, acetone and heat should do it.

However, acetone is EXTREMLY flamable. Be careful with your source of heat. No sparks, no flames, no heatguns...
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 249
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Posted on Sunday, December 30, 2007 - 02:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I think you will find that the solvent - acetone in this case - plays no part in the actual breakdown of the epoxy. The solvent is actually 'removing' any sticky/gummy breakdown products, that the heating process produces. Obviously if you apply the acetone to the heated screw, it will evaporate before it has a chance to penetrate the screw hole.

I tend to use methylene chloride, as the solvent of choice on epoxy adhesives. However it will not work on all heated epoxies and I hesitate to recommend its use, because of the health and safety issues associated with this solvent. Having used many solvents throughout my working life, I thus still tend to use and be able to obtain chemicals that are not ideal for the home workshop - unless it is fitted with proper and adequate extraction.
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Wernerjb
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Username: Wernerjb

Post Number: 229
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, December 30, 2007 - 04:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Pablo is right, acetone first, heat in the second place.
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Mikel
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Username: Mikel

Post Number: 67
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, December 30, 2007 - 06:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

And if all else fails, sometimes you just need to drill the damn thing out.
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Pablomartinez
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Username: Pablomartinez

Post Number: 86
Registered: 09-2006

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Posted on Tuesday, January 01, 2008 - 08:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

There is another option that might work but requires LOTS of work and patience:

If everything else fails and you ABSOLUTELY do not want to drill your screw, you can "build" an impact scredriver.

To do this, take an old screwdriver that PERFECTLY fits the groove of your screw. If you do not find one, file down the tip of the screwdriver till you have a perfect fit.

Now, you have to cut out the last 2 or 3 inches of your screwdriver to fit it on your power screwdriver or battery drill. Set the power screwdriver to a rather loose clutch position(in my metabo power screwdriver it's position 5 out of 20) and try to unscrew the reluctant screw.
Be patient, its not a big blow that you need, but continuous smooth hammering during many, many minutes!!

Needless to say that if you can file down an old scredriver hexagonal tip you will spare one screwdriver.
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Rick_oleson
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Username: Rick_oleson

Post Number: 474
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Tuesday, January 01, 2008 - 10:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I agree with Glenn on solvents (though, again, nothing dissolves cured epoxy); acetone has not seemed to be the most effective one in my experience, except for cleaning up uncured epoxy resin which it's very good at. One problem with Acetone is that it evaporates so fast it's often gone before it can do its work. Methylene chloride, available commercially as "weld-on 3", is a very effective solvent for amorphous polymers, as is MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). Neither of these should be used without lots of ventilation, and the odor of MEK is particularly unpleasant. If you have a workshop that's separate from your house, these are handy to have around.
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Focal7175
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Username: Focal7175

Post Number: 12
Registered: 08-2006

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Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2008 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I'm glad to say that I tried the soldering iron approach once again with a 30w iron and, after applyint heat for about 90 seconds, I was able to unscrew the screw.

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