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Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 230
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 08:32 am: | 
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Help! I have got a collection of bits and pieces off the bay, among them several incomplete or dismantled shutters. At the moment I am working on a Copal SVA, all the parts are there and it is basically ok. There are five blades and five shims, but as it came in parts I do not know whether the shims go under (i.e. towards the housing of the aperture blades) or on top (towards the shutter mechanism). I think it makes more sense to put them under the blades to provide smooth operation, but you never know ...
Any help is appreciated, W. |
Dgillette4
Tinkerer
Username: Dgillette4
Post Number: 140
Registered: 04-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 12:59 pm: |
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You call them shims, Do they look like washers? If it is the very thin washers put them under the blades towards the back of the housing. The self timer was always a problem with the copal, I always gave that a complete cla or I would remove it in my cameras. Don |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 231
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 03:29 pm: |
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A better word would be spacers, maybe, they have two holes and look exactly like the blades where they are installed/ hooked on to the shutter.
Selftimer is shimmed, runs perfectly, escapement is fine. |
Dgillette4
Tinkerer
Username: Dgillette4
Post Number: 142
Registered: 04-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, January 07, 2008 - 05:52 pm: |
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Spacers is the word./ Is this shutter for a view camera? Just curious. Good luck on the reassembly Don |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 232
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2008 - 02:59 am: |
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This particular shutter (probably from a Konica or perhaps a Yashica RF camera) is not meant to be used in a camera and in fact there is no camera to which it belongs, it is just an object which I would like to get going again: skill, I think, comes with practice. The background to this is, there are some gems waiting to be repaired, and I do not want to screw them up for a lack of practice, W. |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer
Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 483
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2008 - 08:30 pm: |
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I encountered this arrangement in a Koni-Omega shutter. In that one, there were 5 blades; On 4 of the blades, the shims were underneath the blade (as assembled on the chassis) but the last blade (on top of the others) had the shim on top. |
Rick_oleson
Tinkerer
Username: Rick_oleson
Post Number: 484
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2008 - 08:32 pm: |
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(in that shutter construction, the blades are assembled on the rear face of the chassis bulkhead, so "top" in that case was the side closest to the film) |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 233
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 09, 2008 - 08:04 am: |
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Meanwhile I have tried out several ways of mounting the shims/spacers and blades. With all the spacers underneath the blades the shutter failed one in ten times. It works perfectly when assembled the way Rick describes, this setup can also be seen on Daniel Mitchell's excellent repair site (last picture, shutter is almost identical to the one I have on my desk): http://www.daniel.mitchell.name/cameras/copalmxv/copalmxv.html
One becomes better and faster over time when doing the same kind of work several times in succession. I used easily removable transparent cling film to prevent the blades from falling through the shutter's center hole, then used the same material to provisionally tack the set of blades as a whole in its correct mounting position until the shutter is together again. Before installing the assembly the film covering the hole must be taken off again, of course, but that is easy now, as the blades stick together and do not tumble and fall apart. Finally, after screwing the two halves together, the tape on the blades can be removed, it leaves no residue on the surfaces, but one has to work slowly and carefully not to warp the blades. This way of mounting the blades is far more effective than my "cork-in-the-hole" method which in comparison was a shaky business.
Thank you Don and Rick for your help and encouragement, W. |
