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Gez
Tinkerer
Username: Gez
Post Number: 19
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2008 - 09:53 am: | 
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I am in the process of servicing a Konica Auto S2 rangefinder. Previous postings and M Feuerbacher's article have been invaluable, so the front lens cell is now off (with difficulty!)and the shutter unit is in 2 halves. However, I can't unscrew the rear lens cell. Is it meant to be unscrewed? The glass seems to be held in place in the metal mount by a springy 'C' ring, on removal of this ring will the glass slide out? This is something I'd rather not do as it could disturb the lens spacings. If possible unscrewing the whole cell in mount seems preferable. Advice will be welcome. |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 247
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2008 - 12:01 pm: |
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If you want to remove the lens cell as a whole (highly recommended, so leave the rearmost lens glass/ element where it is, do not remove the "C" ring!) it usually unscrews easily (two rather wide notches) with either a makeshift tool or a lens spanner. This camera, along with the Minolta Hi-Matic 9 ist a must for tinkerers and a fabulous camera with an excellent lens, so it is worth the effort, W. |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 248
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2008 - 12:14 pm: |
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Hi, Gez, it's me again: if you decide to give the camera a complete overhaul it is also possible to peel off the black leatherette and take off the complete rectangular lens carrier plate (four slothead screws in its corners), this offers easy access to all the levers, linkages, wires etc. It is then also possible to take off the complete lens barrel (retainer ring with four notches). Unfortunately this complete knock-down requires advanced tinkering skills, including desoldering the wires to the battery box (red, 2xblack, green, blue). If in doubt about what to do you can ask any questions you like, W. |
Gez
Tinkerer
Username: Gez
Post Number: 20
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2008 - 11:57 am: |
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Thanks Wernerjb, I'm well into the disassembly, started on the 1st of Jan and proceeding slowly! Done the desoldering and pulled the front etc. The shutter blade assembly is now separate from the aperture assembly but the only thing that is stopping me from flood-cleaning the gummed up aperture blades is the presence of the rear lens cell. I noticed the wide spaced notches on the rear cell but was worried about using a lens spanner in case it wasn't designed to unscrew. I'll have a go at unscrewing this cell using an improvised tool, the conventional lens spanners seem designed to slip. |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 249
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2008 - 04:08 pm: |
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Right, that is what I usually do, but I simply did not want to persuade you to use "improper" tools. Sometimes I find the homemade tools a lot more convenient than what you can buy in tool stores.
In case you need to know any more details, do not hesitate to ask. There are just three points at which I can advise you to be extra careful: #1: the light meter, as it has two needles, the one you can see from above, and another one parallel to the first for the needle trap mechanism in auto mode, they can both be bent easily; #2: the retracting spring of the pair of release levers at the back of the front plate (chrome and brass coloured, it is a pain to put that spring back when it is unhooked!); #3: the delicate activating spring of the aperture blades.
Putting the shutter assembly perfectly together (flash sync, running the wires through the housing) can also be a hard test for one's patience and skill. |
Gez
Tinkerer
Username: Gez
Post Number: 21
Registered: 09-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 06, 2008 - 06:32 am: |
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Thanks for that info Werner. Well I tried to shift the rear lens cell but it was absolutely stuck fast, so I resorted to unscrewing the 2 small brass screws that hold the aperture face plate. No probs here just removed the blades and cleaned them individually, put them back and gently refastened the face plate. Blades moving smoothly now.
Unfortunately I haven't had similar luck with the shutter blades as they got jumbled up as I removed them. This model has 5 blades and 5 spacers, am I correct that the spacers sit on the nickel plated actuating ring? According to one article I have read 4 of the spacers sit under the blades, but the 5th spacer sits on top of the last blade. Is this correct?? Anyway, that is the configuration I've tried but the blades won't stay in place on attempting to reattach the shutter base.
To make things a bit easier i have removed the selftimer and slow speed escapement units from the shutter base, but still the base won't sit straight without disturbing the shutter blades! Is it a case of repeat untill succeed?
There appears to be problem the remaining mechanism attached to the shutter base. The sector gear, which traverses the small pinion gear that is attached to the 'star' wheel, has a small pin on its top surface. It appears that this pin should mate with a slot on the long spring loaded lever. There is no evidence of the pin having jumped out of this slot but the lever can't move back far enough when the shutter cocking shaft is rotated. Any ideas?? |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 253
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, February 06, 2008 - 08:03 am: |
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Usally the S2's rear lens cell comes out easily (unless somebody has glued it in: yes, sometimes people do the most unimaginable things!)
Did you free the shutter from its housing, i.e from the chrome rings around the very shutter mechanism? It is of course easier to get everything back together if you can concentrate on the essentials. If you are going to do this now to make work easier it is of vital importance to precisely note down how things come apart so that you can reversely follow that order during reassembly. Watch out for three notched curvatures along the rim and how they fit together. Without those notes reassembly will drive you nuts!
I have tried several ways of mounting the blades on a COPAL SVA and was then given some advice about another Konica shutter by Rick Oleson, https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/forum/messages/2/11165.html?1199891079. Yes, mounting shutter blades and getting shutter halves together is a job of patience and precision plus trial and error: if the studs and holes do not line up correctly one is prone to tilt everything. You can see a similar setup here: http://pheugo.com/cameras/copalmxv/copalmxv.html
This link also reveals secrets about the escapement, I would remove it and give it a thorough rinse in lighter fuid. As long as you do not remove the screws holding its two halves together instead of the ones thast keep it in its place it will come out as a whole, you can follow the disassembly instruction given in the above source. The star wheel part will move freely when in use; on reassembly you have to make sure that the escapements sits in the right position before fastening the screws. (Special attention: do not lose the spring mentioned in the liner notes of pic.5), W. |
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