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Blaz38
Tinkerer
Username: Blaz38
Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 11:12 am: | 
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I'm attempting to repair a 35 RD with the common shutter problem. Dis-assembled the lens front element, then shutter-diaphragm assembly: cleaned, now oil-free and OK. Problem to put back the shutter-diaphragm into the focusing barrel. See:
http://tinyurl.com/23gpnm
The fork in the front assembly block that actuates the shutter must engage a little cylinder on the shutter itself; but the rear element of the lens, because of its diameter, hits the fork.
It looks like a possible procedure would be to separate the front block from the rear body of the camera (four screws under leatherette, plus one on top), separate the rear element from the shutter, insert and fix the shutter in the front block, screw the rear element back into the shutter from the rear of the front block, and finally re-mount the front block onto the main camera body.
However, separating the front block from the main camera body is prevented by a corner of the telemeter window; see:
http://tinyurl.com/247gyt
SO...
Either I need also to separate the viewfinder and telemeter assembly from the main body to proceed. Tight screws (acetone??), and risk to lose telemeter adjustment.
OR.. Is there another way? A number of people have reported here:
http://tinyurl.com/37pjjz
how they successfully fixed the oily shutter problem. What is the trick? I tried and tried, but found no way to re-insert the shutter from the front with the rear element attached. And I don't want to exert too much effort for fear of bending something.
All help will be appreciated
Bernard |
Blaz38
Tinkerer
Username: Blaz38
Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 11:20 am: |
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Two afterthoughts:
1) Does someone know what causes some screws in the 35 RD to be so tight? Age? Or are they somwhat glued?
2) Advice sought on proper brand, model of screwdriver and procedure to un-screw small and tight screws. I have been using pro-grade (Facom) screwdrivers, and the steel at the tip has visibly deformed as a result of the efforts. I once read a hobbyist stating that he had dedicated un-screwdrivers... Would that be with an aggressive cut angle on the side that engages the screw in the sense of un-screwing?
Thank you. |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 260
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 12:44 pm: |
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Let me start answering the question why some screws are so tight. Often a camera has previously been apart and the repairperson overtightened them. In other cases one can find cameras of the same make in which screws are very or, in other cases, not so tight. I have tried out VERY expensive 1st class screwdrivers (Wiha) and the el-cheapo brand from the bay, both types can be used as long as they exactly fit to the screwheads. If not even moderately tightened screws are problematic!
I know by first-hand experience that it is sometimes difficult to reassemble the shutter blade module, but it usually is possible when you follow Henry's repair tips: https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/oly35rdcleaning.html
I have taken a route similar to the one you propose, including loosening the fork (activating arm) you mention. It meant one had to remove either the selftimer (=what is shown in your second picture), which I preferred, or the RF assembly (requires alignment of the finder).
After having repaired several of these Olys, I think, although identical, they are all a bit different, W. |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 261
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2008 - 01:11 pm: |
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Let me start answering the question why some screws are so tight. Often a camera has previously been apart and the repairperson overtightened them. In other cases one can find cameras of the same make in which screws are very or, in other cases, not so tight. I have tried out VERY expensive 1st class screwdrivers (Wiha) and the el-cheapo brand from the bay, both types can be used as long as they exactly fit to the screwheads. If not even moderately tightened screws are problematic!
I know by first-hand experience that it is sometimes difficult to reassemble the shutter blade module, but it usually is possible when you follow Henry's repair tips: https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/oly35rdcleaning.html
I have taken a route similar to the one you propose, including loosening the fork (activating arm) you mention. It meant one had to remove either the selftimer (=what is shown in your second picture), which I preferred, or the RF assembly (requires alignment of the finder).
After having repaired several of these Olys, I think, although identical, they are all a bit different, W. |
Blaz38
Tinkerer
Username: Blaz38
Post Number: 3
Registered: 01-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, February 18, 2008 - 11:45 pm: |
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Thank you Wernerjb. Indeed I prefer to remove the selftimer and leave alone the rangefinder. I have ordered Wiha screwdrivers (000, 00, 0), and will wait for them before continuing: with poor or damaged screwdrivers I could make things more difficult for the future.
Can you please confirm tha the two screws outlined in:
http://tinyurl.com/274utj
are all that holds the selftimer to the rest of the plate, and that little parts will not jump in all directions when I dismount the selftimer?
Strange also that in:
http://tinyurl.com/2jxzz2
there is no mention of separating the selftimer: it is shown attached before and after separating the front assembly...
Bernard |
Charlie
Tinkerer
Username: Charlie
Post Number: 138
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2008 - 06:23 am: |
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I have a couple of 35DC's which appear to be an almost identical camera, programmed exposure only with no provision for manual control of shutter speed or aperture. The first arrived with the self timer parts missing and when I bought a second parts camera it seemed to be working properly when I cleaned the battery contacts so I've been ignoring the first one. Can you tell me if these cameras should work with the self timer missing altogether? Thanks. altogether? |
Wernerjb
Tinkerer
Username: Wernerjb
Post Number: 265
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, February 19, 2008 - 10:17 am: |
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Hi, Charlie, AFAIK the 35 DC has an electronic shutter and is of a different make-up inside, I am sorry but I cannot help you solve that problem.
Hi, Blaz38, I can positively confirm that these two screws held the self-timer assy in my camera. The only part that fell off during disassembly was a steel washer on the pinion square shaft (in your pic it seems as if there is a brass washer).
In the first of the two pics showing a "closer view" in the 2nd link you relate to it says "(2) do not loose this screw! this is for controlling shuter blades to open and close. you have to spend hard effor to fix it again if you loose it by mistake". Maybe this applies to the lens plus shutter blade module still in place! Other than what is said there it is exactly that screw that I loosened to be able to re-install the shutter blade module (http://tinyurl.com/23gpnm). You also have to fiddle in (a)the two pins protruding from it beside the rear lens group; where they go can be seen in the above-quoted picture(s), and (b) the spline shaft operating the speeds. All this reassembly about what goes where can be studied in Henry's excellent description. |
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