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Jayess99
Tinkerer
Username: Jayess99
Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2008 - 02:56 pm: | 
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I have a Canon FT-QL. The frosted glass above the mirror (behind the lens, under the viewfinder- sorry, I dont know what it's called) needs to be replaced. Is this possible? How is it done? And where could I find a replacement? |
Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 58
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2008 - 09:49 pm: |
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the "frosted glass" is the Fresnel lens, and the dome shaped glass above it is the correcting lens. in the FT's case it's (probably) all one piece.
i've disassembled the FTb, the FT's older brother, and that particular part is not easy to remove or replace. and if you replaced it, you'd still have to deal with putting the new F. lens back in exactly the same place as the old one, or else the focusing would be off. perhaps getting a new mirror cage would be your best bet, and then in that case, you'd have to buy another FT QL. 'parts' cameras are pretty cheap and you could try salvaging from there...
?
cheers,
Dragunov |
Jayess99
Tinkerer
Username: Jayess99
Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2008 - 11:59 am: |
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I have an FTb that I can use for parts. But I dont know how to disassemble it. Can you tell me how? |
Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 59
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2008 - 09:21 pm: |
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yes... sorta. kind of busy right now, so this is all i have.
are you new to camera repair?
to remove pin-faced screws, i use one of them two point compass thingies that you find in geometry sets, but i grind the points so that they're skinny and less sharp. very easy to damage parts with this tool, use lots of downward pressure so it doesn't scratch...
Canon FTb disassembly: a 2008 space oddessy.
Stage 1:
● unscrew the wind crank. Open up the back and stick something (like a chopstick) in the fork to stop it from turning, and then turn it in the direction opposite to that indicated by the arrow. Use a chopstick or something non-metallic to avoid damaging the part. The crank is on pretty tight, so you might end up using a screwdriver anyways. DON'T pull the shaft! It's got a tiny steel ball to provide click-stops, and you don't want to lose this. Trust me, it ain't fun. At all.
● Unscrew the pin-faced screw holding in the wind crank. This part is tricky. The pin-faced screw is on very tight, and unscrews in a counter-clockwise direction . Be sure to remember and account for all of the washers and bits under the screw, I suggest drawing a diagram.
● Set the speed/ASA knob to 1/1000 and ASA 25. Really, do it. Remove the pin faced screw over the dial, but not the brass washer or plastic knob underneath. Don't do it! unscrew counterclockwise.
● Remove the battery cap. I can't tell you how, it's a trade secret.
● Remove all the screws. ALL?!? yeah, you heard me. All of 'em. There are perhaps 4 around the perimeter, 2 around the eyepiece, one on the right side and two on the front.
● Lift off the cover. Unless you forgot to remove something, it should come off cleanly, just wriggle it. Don't try to pry it off, it shouldn't be too hard.
Stage 2
● AHH! Wires! #@%&! unsolder the three wires that connect to the top cover, unless you want the thing to dangle for the rest of your operation.
● Remove the random thing under the shutter button. It might be there, or it might have fallen into the body. Wherever it is, it fits in the shutter button and is vaguely upside-down T-shaped. You don't want to lose this part.
hope it helps somewhat... Rick Oleson has a diagram on removing the top cover. google him up, and gibe him an email, if you ask politely he might send it to you. i would, but it's not mine.
will [try to] continue when i have the time.
ask if it still boggles you. |
Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 60
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 02, 2008 - 09:22 pm: |
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oh yeah, and i don't know if the part is interchangeable between the two. but if the FTb's a junker and you have nothing else to do... |
Charlie
Tinkerer
Username: Charlie
Post Number: 151
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 03, 2008 - 06:00 am: |
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On some cameras, maybe your's, it is a good idea to put a film cartridge in after you loosen the rewind knob to prevent the little shaft and numerous other parts from falling down into the camera when you finally remove the crank. |
Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 63
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 03, 2008 - 08:57 pm: |
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well, not on the FTb, there's a spring and ball bearing that provide click-stops that also conveniently holds the shaft in place. so that shouldn't be necessary on the FTb. |
Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn
Post Number: 312
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, April 04, 2008 - 09:47 am: |
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Charlie,
Always a good idea when the back is still fixed to the body, only takes a moments lapse in concentration - no matter how big the indent is on the rewind shaft! Been there, done that. OK, so no big deal to hook the latch and open the door, but simpler to prevent in the first place. |
Yahvo
Tinkerer
Username: Yahvo
Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, August 30, 2008 - 01:04 pm: |
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I have an old Canon FT, too which has locked up on me. Using yall's instructions I removed the top but see nothing obvious that could cause the problem. It will neither fire the shutter or wind. What's the next step or should I consign this to my parts camera bin?
Thanks for your help. Mike |
Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 95
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, September 14, 2008 - 09:23 pm: |
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ugh... try to 'reset' the camera.
remove bottom cover
pull at the wind lever... it should be stopped by silver (?) springed catch on top of a brass disk. the disk is part of the winding gear chain assembly.
unhook the catch from the black thingy it stops. wind it.
if you need pics, I can send em. |
Togeorge626
Tinkerer
Username: Togeorge626
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, October 27, 2008 - 04:20 pm: |
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Hi, folks,
I have a Canon FTb QL that I've had for 30 years and still love to use. The one problem is that the pentaprism has developed mold in the optical cement and cannot be cleaned or repaired. So now all scenes I view have Spanish moss hanging down and the match-needle is partially obscured. I recently bought another FTb QL body through ebay for cheap, and that works as well as my original one - however obviously more worn and beat up than mine. I would like to take the pentaprism out of the ebay body and replace the one in my original camera. How difficult would this be? Would one need special tools or dedicated fixtures or special collimation gear to get it back together? I have worked on cameras before: I disassembled a super Ikonta B lens to clean off oil, carefully and sparely lubricated various parts and gears with silicone to make them run smoothly and fixed a pinhole in the bellows. It all went back together and works well. I also once partially disassembled a barely-functioning Ilex self-cocking shutter and got it back together and working. That being said, I don't want to end up with two piles of junk. Would I be wise to buy repair manual reprints? |
Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 118
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, October 28, 2008 - 01:07 pm: |
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Agreed- although in my case I've had a FTb for less than one year.
special tools? not if you're careful.
don;t think you'd need collimation gear.
repair manuals not needed... Rick Oleson has a sketch that will help you. it helped me. give him a shout.
tip: take the old one apart first. I got a "busted" FTb from a friend and really scratched the pin face screw keeping the wind lever in up. you don't want that on your keeper.
after you take the top cover off, the pentaprism is just kept in by by a bent metal bar and two screws. remove that and the pentaprism should come right off. so the swap is pretty simple. |
Dragunov
Tinkerer
Username: Dragunov
Post Number: 120
Registered: 10-2007
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, October 29, 2008 - 07:40 pm: |
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another thing: there is a rack and pinion assembly that moves the light meter resistor from the shutter speed dial. take a picture, some notes or score this assembly. you won't want to mess it up, or your meter readings will be out of whack. |
