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Tikirocker
Tinkerer
Username: Tikirocker
Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 11:28 am: | 
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G'day gents,
I'm in a bit of a hurry, sad to say my Contax 139 which has served me without major incident for nearly 16 years, just up and died. I love this camera and would be very sorry to see it go.
It has been working fine lately until I picked it up yesterday and the cocking lever would not wind on and felt very grainy, rough in movement. I checked through the view finder to see if LED's were flashing and responding and to my horror it was dead. Thinking the batteries may be dead I went and bought two new ones and found zero response.
This has never happened in all the years I've had it, is this a dead Circuit Board?
Here I am getting prepared for an assignment in Japan and I find my favourite camera is dead - I have Medium Format also but I am trekking so have no plans to carry an RB67 and lenses on foot for hundreds of Klm's.
I am fairly mechanically and technically minded so without a repair manual I removed the bottom plate to see if I could detect anything amiss but nothing really happened there - what I did notice was that on the odd occasion I could get the shutter to fire but it would not respond immediately and then would not fire at varying shutter speeds ... it was firing at some very slow speed like 1/15th or the like regardless of the setting ... delayed firing. After doing this a few times it would seize up again and not fire and is showing no power.
Any advice on what is up appreciated!
Best, S. |
Mikel
Tinkerer
Username: Mikel
Post Number: 93
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 24, 2008 - 07:47 pm: |
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The 139 is one of the most reliable of film cameras. And one of the most pleasant to use.
I've repaired dozens of them and they have few ingrained repeatable problems. That's not to say that you don't have a real problem. Just trying to encourage you for what's coming up next.
I have never seen one with the symptoms you describe. I don't have a magic bullet solution. These days, when I have to fly somewhere I just take a digital camera. Flying these days is the pits. But if I am driving I take along my favorite kit- a pair of 139's and lenses.
I think that the key concept here is a PAIR of camera bodies and you can get a very nice repaired and tested and guaranteed 139 for under 200 USD.
That's a bargain. I have the Contax factory repair guide and also the one from the Society of Photo technologists. I can say that your symptoms are unusual and probably will require the attention of a professional repairman or woman.
Mike |
Tikirocker
Tinkerer
Username: Tikirocker
Post Number: 2
Registered: 04-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, April 25, 2008 - 09:29 am: |
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Mikel,
As I said earlier, I've had this camera for years and it has seen plenty of the world and taken many great images without any serious trouble. The only major work it ever needed was the seals replacing, I replaced the leatherette myself a few years back and once the winder failed and got repaired; beyond that nothing serious.
I'm in no doubt it's going to require more serious attention than I can give it but I would be curious to get the top cover off even if only to take a look and see if I can spot any oxide or any obvious burnt circuits. Any chance you could talk through getting the top cover off?
I managed to get the bottom plate and the front lower plastic planet around the lens throat off but didn't know how to proceed with the top cover.
Best, Simon |
Mikel
Tinkerer
Username: Mikel
Post Number: 94
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, April 25, 2008 - 08:17 pm: |
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a copy of my post from June of 2004 which I found by using the search function. I highly recommend the search function here as it saves time and effort.
"To remove the top etc:
Pry off the rubber cover over the wind lever and remove the LEFT HAND screw holding it on. There is a plate and spring underneath with a retaining nut under. After you get that off, use a piece of rubber (like a stopper) to unscrew the release button. If rubber won't do it, try a pair of sharp tweezers at the edge of the button and be careful of marking the button. After you get the release button off, you will see two screws in the film speed selector. Leave then alone and just lift off the selector. Wedge the rewind shaft inside the camera and unscrew the rewind knob. Remove the three screws underneath and lift off the speed selector. Using your piece of rubber again, unscrew the black plastic ring around the external shutter release socket at the back of the camera. Now remove the two screws at the sides of the lens mount and the one on the top on the rewind side. Now you can pull off the top. Now peel off the wind-side front leatherette. Next remove the bottom plate with the rewind button being loose. Now remove the two small screws at the bottom of the depth of field button cover plate around the bottom of the lens mount and remove it. At this point you will be able to see the flywheel and access it. Having gone this far, you might as well remove the self timer plate- three screws - not the one between the button and led - and take a good look at the mechanism. You can temporarily refit the wind lever and shutter button to wind and fire the sutter. Your missing f-stop in viewfinder problem is probably due to a missing prism/mirror in the light path, which you can now check out.
Good Luck!" |
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