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Mndean
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Username: Mndean

Post Number: 16
Registered: 08-2007

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Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 02:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I just picked up a Minolta XE-7 for cheap, working well and in really nice shape, but it has minor brassing in the front corners of the top plate. I have read about different ways of covering this up, including touch-up paint, brass black, etc. Could anyone here with experience in this tell me what's the best way?
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 170
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2007 - 06:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Your best bet is to leave well alone, just use the camera. Black camera finishes are very difficult to match up, do a bad job and the repainted areas will be more noticeable than the small amount of brassing you were originally trying to hide. If you just want a quick fix, try a black maker pen. Otherwise you will have to source a black paint that has the correct 'gloss' and shade and then carefully touch in the brassed areas. I personally use a small airbrush for small areas, but many people use a small camel hair brush.

I am sorry that I cannot help with a suitable paint for your Minolta, never repainted any cameras from this manufacturer.
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Rj_
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Username: Rj_

Post Number: 12
Registered: 08-2007

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Posted on Thursday, September 06, 2007 - 11:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I'd agree with Glenn on this one even if the Minolta X series does not hold the vintage charm of brassed cameras very well, any alternative cosmetic approach other than a complete disassembly and electroplating the top plate again would leave less desirable results than being left alone.

If you still feel determined to try a restoration, Humbrol stock enamel paints which give a similar finish:

http://www.udisco.com/hobbies/inv/HUMBRO.HTM

Although the enamel finish will show up in comparison to the original specification unless the complete top plate is resprayed. Perhaps this is why, on the balance of input and energy, leaving it alone, no matter how mundane a thought, holds more appeal.
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Paul_ron
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Username: Paul_ron

Post Number: 65
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, September 09, 2007 - 12:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Eleiminating brassing is a crime. It takes the wisdom of the camera away, it's experiances, what it has seen in it's 45 years of service. I should look that good after so many years of heavy usage. It also shows the underlying quality of the camera, it's brass instead of cheap aluminum.

Wear it with pride and show off that beauty.
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Leo6645
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Username: Leo6645

Post Number: 9
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Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2009 - 10:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Guess it is like one is going bold with age, some women say Sean Connery is iressistible, any touppe will seem ridiculous on him... but many people like to restore their cameras the best they can for display. Any approach seems to be wise - all depends on the purpose.
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Gez
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Username: Gez

Post Number: 81
Registered: 09-2007

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Posted on Wednesday, May 06, 2009 - 12:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Humbrol black gloss is generally a very good match most 70's vintage cameras. As long as the brassing is limited to the corners and edges I have found the best way to apply the paint is by using the tip of a cocktail stick. Apply a relatively thick coat that is higher than the edge of the paint loss area. I know this goes against received wisdom but providing the paint doesn't run it will dry almost to the level of the original paint surface. Just leave covered and undisturbed for 3 days. This technique works best for areas of brassing not more than about 2mm wide.
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 574
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Wednesday, May 06, 2009 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The problem with the Humbrol or any similar paint 'touch up', is that the finish is not that durable. It's OK for the showcase but will soon wear off on a well used camera; however, as has already been stated many people like to display 'unmarked' cameras - it's a personal choice after all.
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Johnp
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Username: Johnp

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Registered: 11-2008

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Posted on Thursday, May 07, 2009 - 03:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Opinions of whether or not to touch up aside, I have experimented with touch up techniques for grins,generally with enamels of various types on my Canon F-1 and Nikon F2 and have been disappointed that the brassing comes back in fairly short order. I have not tried lacquer which may be more durable. For now, I am just letting it go and handling the cameras more carefully to minimize further brassing.

As for application techniques, I apply several thin coats with the help of magnifying glasses, let dry for a couple days. Then I use extremely fine automotive sandpaper - a minimum 1500 grit, using a tiny folded corner to take down the touch up to smooth and to feather with the surrounding paint as much as possible without touching the original finish. Then I use a fine abrasive, like Silvo, to polish it out with my fingertips. It looks like new, at least for a little while.
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Mndean
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Username: Mndean

Post Number: 145
Registered: 08-2007

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Posted on Thursday, May 07, 2009 - 10:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hey, I started this thread! I left the brassing alone, BTW. To get anything like a realistic finish (that still wouldn't stand up to close inspection) was too much work. The camera works too nicely to worry about trivialities.
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Paul_ron
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Username: Paul_ron

Post Number: 149
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Monday, May 11, 2009 - 08:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I agree, brassing is the wisdom of the camera. It shows it's experiance and has a certain demand for respect. "If a tree can talk," imagine what it would say?
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 575
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Posted on Monday, May 11, 2009 - 02:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

As I am sure you know, trees do 'talk' in the scientific sense - Dendrochronology allows accurate knowledge of past climate trends, this is especially interesting when some of the worlds oldest trees are examined.
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Brianshaw
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Username: Brianshaw

Post Number: 52
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Saturday, May 16, 2009 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Oy veh... talking trees and nonverbal wisdom of cameras. What are you guys smoking? :-)

Re: brassing... touching up never works as good as intended, so it is best to learn to live with the "damage". I've disquised minor brassing (and I really mean MINOR amounts of brassing) by dabbing the spot with a black Sharpie marker (permanent ink felt-tipped marker) for a temporary cosmetic solution.
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Paul_ron
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Username: Paul_ron

Post Number: 153
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, May 17, 2009 - 09:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Cameras certainly do talk, take a look at the pictures it captured?
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Jayd
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Username: Jayd

Post Number: 39
Registered: 06-2007

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Posted on Sunday, May 17, 2009 - 01:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I use the black "magic marker" ocasionally as a quick tempoary fix. On some vintage cameras with larger surfaces I have had good results using rustoleum semi gloss spray paint but this only works when you can re spray and entire part not just a small area of a part. another thing if it bothers you or to prevent brassing is to cover the area with electrical tape.
Jay
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David_ritchie
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Username: David_ritchie

Post Number: 42
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Monday, May 18, 2009 - 01:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Do not use a magic marker! I once ruined a nice shirt when a camera that I just bought rubbed off the magic marker on this shirt while the camera was hanging around my neck.
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Tom_cheshire
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Username: Tom_cheshire

Post Number: 15
Registered: 04-2009

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Posted on Tuesday, May 19, 2009 - 11:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Has anyone else noticed, on black Nikons like the F2, that there are a few coats of yellow lead primer undercoat under the final black paint?

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