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Daniirwan
Tinkerer
Username: Daniirwan
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 23, 2009 - 04:38 am: | 
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Hi all! This is my first post here, hope some of you might be able to help me. I have the above two folders, both came to me in great condition except for the foggy/dirty viewfinders. There appears to be dirt/gunk in the VF of the Perkeo I, while the Nettar's VF just appears to be foggy. Now, I'd like to clean the viewfinders of these 2 cameras myself, since I think it's quite a simple job which I don't think is worth paying my normal camera repair man the $30 he's asking for it. Plus, I might be able to get invaluable experience cleaning my own cameras!  So, how do I go about doing it? If possible, I'd like a step by step instruction as this is my 1st time. What tools do I need? I have no specific tools around the house (just a couple of large screwdrivers), but I think I can get some of those tiny precision screw drivers. Also, what cleaning agent do I use to clean it up? I heard Windex or any other glass/window cleaner should work..is it true? Would appreciate any help given greatly. Thanks in advance! |
Daniirwan
Tinkerer
Username: Daniirwan
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 08:58 pm: |
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Anyone? |
Ethostech
Tinkerer
Username: Ethostech
Post Number: 138
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 05:53 am: |
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I am sentimental about the Perkeo 1 - since it was my very first camera as bought new when I was an Air Force conscript.
I moved on from the Perkeo a long time ago but a couple of years ago acquired one for my Collection. It too had a misty dirty viewfinder.
Since it is a plain viewfinder as with no rangefinder complications, you can clean up the glass with Windex and a cotton bud. Top-plate removal is easy, intuitive and straight-forward but don't even think about it unless you have perfectly fitting screwdrivers.
Start by opening the camera front, advancing the film wind knob until it clicks, cocking the shutter and then releasing the shutter. You do this because you now have to remove the camera top-plate to access the dirty viewfinder. BUT the film wind knob interfaces with the shutter cocking so as to prevent double exposures and you want it de-tensioned before you remove the film wind knob.
You can now close the camera front to protect the bellows et al whilst you are working on it.
Once you have removed the film-wind knob I think you will see a top plate securing screw. The other end of the top plate hooks into the chassis - so lift the left hand end slightly and slide off the top plate to the right (as viewing from behind the camera).
Look carefully at the shutter wind-lock interface mechanism and be sure it is exactly like that when eventually you replace the top plate.
If you don't feel up to the job or you don't want to specially grind a screwdriver to fit the very narrow slot in the film-wind knob - then don't chew it up and spoil the camera.
Better to pay the $30. |
Daniirwan
Tinkerer
Username: Daniirwan
Post Number: 9
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, November 04, 2009 - 12:20 am: |
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Ethostech, thank you very much for your feedback. I must say, it's starting to sound like a much more complicated job than I imagined! I'm also somewhat disheartened, as yesterday I tried cleaning the VF of my Zeiss Ikon Nettar 517/16, but the precision screwdrivers I had didn't seem to be up to the job...neither one can barely fit the screw's slot on the Nettar thus I can't even remove the top plate. Tell me what tools do you use? I used a 3mm wide precision screwdriver. |
Ethostech
Tinkerer
Username: Ethostech
Post Number: 139
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, November 04, 2009 - 03:30 am: |
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Very often one finds that 50 year old cameras have never been opened up since they left the production-line. Such screws as tightened up half a century back are usually stubborn. Always a good move to place a drop of WD40 on the screwhead and leave overnight. The WD40 will seep below the screwheads and into the threads.
Using the right screwdriver is commonsense logic.
Its width at its business end should be the same as the slot in the screw. The tip of the screwdriver should not be sharp like a knife but rather square so that it bottoms in the slot whilst exactly fitting the sidewalls of the slots.
Cameras often have screws with particularly narrow slots - and standard commercial drivers won't fit them. The slotted screw in the centre of the wind knob of your Perkeo is a case in point.
Whether a professional repairer or an amateur restorer, always the first job is to ensure that one has perfect fitting screwdrivers for the job in hand - and that sometimes means adapting a commercial driver by grinding it.
They should always be hollow-ground so as to ensure perfect fit - and they should not be allowed to "blue" by heat of the grinding wheel. Always quench-cool immediately into old car crankcase oil. If you quench in cold water the tip will be brittle and break easily. |
Hanskerensky
Tinkerer
Username: Hanskerensky
Post Number: 14
Registered: 05-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 05, 2009 - 10:36 am: |
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As an add-on to the walkthrough of Ethostech some images of a Perkeo 1 with the Topcover removed can be seen on my flickr-photostream :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/29504544@N08/sets/72157619237791537/ |
Daniirwan
Tinkerer
Username: Daniirwan
Post Number: 11
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, November 08, 2009 - 08:11 am: |
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Ethos: Thanks for the help, but I've finally had it cleaned by a repairman, I'm not too good with my hands you see Thanks so much!
Hans: I'll take a look, thanks a lot! |
