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Impman71
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Username: Impman71

Post Number: 13
Registered: 03-2007

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Posted on Friday, February 19, 2010 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi,
Does anyone know how to cure the lightmeter on my Auto S2? It works fine for most of the scale but will only go down to just above 1.8, i.e. it wont go into the red section to indicate underexposure or lock the shutter out in auto as it does for overexposure.
Any sugestions greatfully received.
Thanks,
Colin
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Harryrag
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Username: Harryrag

Post Number: 175
Registered: 05-2008

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Posted on Saturday, February 20, 2010 - 03:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If reading and metering , especially in auto, is ok this does not indicate there is anything wrong with it. I have found some meters were just like that in cameras that had never been open for repair.
Some explanations may be of some help:
#1: the position of the needle decides about the aperture opening (not what you read on the scale), and the correct functioning of preventing over- and unerexposure, this set-up is called the needle trap mechanism. If, for some reason, the travelling of the needle is blocked before it reaches its end positions, the system cannot work the way is is supposed to.
#2: the needle is made to stop on both ends of the scale by bumper stoppers which to some degree can carefully be bent for correction if necessary
#3: the aperture scale on top of the housing can also be adjusted relative to the swing of the needle
#4: other problems can cause this problem, like dirt in the FRAGILE coilsprings in the meter, when there is metal debris caught in the magnet of the solenoid or the camera has other mechanical linkage issues (bent levers, etc.); in the S2 with its top cap off everything is easy to understand how it is supposed to be working, as one can actually see what is happening: the meter housing is see-through plastic and the leverage is visible.
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Impman71
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Username: Impman71

Post Number: 14
Registered: 03-2007

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Posted on Saturday, February 20, 2010 - 11:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks Harryrag,
I am not going to get a chance to have a look at it for over a week now, but will take the top of & have a look to see if it is anything obvious. I'm hoping it may be debris. I find also it needs a fair bit of light to jump of the bottom of the scale almost as though it is sticking & needs more current to free it.
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Impman71
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Username: Impman71

Post Number: 15
Registered: 03-2007

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Posted on Friday, March 05, 2010 - 05:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I took the top off yesterday & the meter started working fine. The interlock also works for under exposure.
It seems the top was trapping the needle just slightly enough to stop it going to the top of the scale. I cut a thin plastic shim & put it down onto the rewind crank pin under the cover to hold it off.
I just need to adjust the rangefinder for the vertical & hopefully take some pics :-)
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Harryrag
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Username: Harryrag

Post Number: 188
Registered: 05-2008

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Posted on Friday, March 05, 2010 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The lens, like almost all Konica RF lenses, is top-notch, I hope you can enjoy it!
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Impman71
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Username: Impman71

Post Number: 17
Registered: 03-2007

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Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Have aligned the range finder, but now notice there is a fairly large spot of dust & a hair behind the rear element:-( I'm going to have to peel back the leatherette again & remove the lens block so I can undo the rear lens ring & get it out to clean. I think this is a better way then trying to go in from the film chamber - I'm likely to scratch the body at least!
Will try & get it done next week.
Cheers
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David_nebenzahl
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Username: David_nebenzahl

Post Number: 201
Registered: 12-2009

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Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 12:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Can't you just get a spanner on the rear element through the film gate? Or are things too tight back there?

I know some cameras can be a real bitch in this department, like the Kodak 35 RF, which required fabricating a custom spanner tool to get the back of the lens off.
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Impman71
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Username: Impman71

Post Number: 18
Registered: 03-2007

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Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 07:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Unfortunately I don't have propper spanners, also it is really tight & I think even if I did it's likely I'd scratch it.
I had it all apart about 4 months ago, it's not a major job, just a bit of a pain.

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