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John LeBlanc
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, August 01, 2005 - 06:14 pm: |
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Don't use soap! It's hydroscopic - attracts moisture from the air and will swell the wood slightly over time, making the problem worse. |
Pinetar
Tinkerer Username: Pinetar
Post Number: 4 Registered: 10-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, October 19, 2006 - 07:41 pm: |
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Try tung oil. |
Mike_rgb
Tinkerer Username: Mike_rgb
Post Number: 15 Registered: 08-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, October 19, 2006 - 09:48 pm: |
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Tung oil has a great infulance on wood by keeping it from drying out. However it has 1 weakness, & that is when it get's hot, it bleeds out droplets of oil. A 50 percent blend of Tung oil with 50 percent boiled Linseed oil, will dry hard & smooth. I found a product made by Elmers & Remmington ( Dri-Lube ) make a small spray can of PTFE ( Teflon ). It goes on wet then turns quickly into a dry white teflon powder that will allow wood like drawers, pegs & windows to glide & come loose when needed. It also repels water better than wax & won't swell or shrink the wood. I have used it on metal also where oil, & grease must never be allowed. PTFE is not a lube like oil, it acts to fill in the low spots making things smoother, & friction free. Less friction = less heat & drag so parts work better, & don't stick. Mike Mike Mike |
Mike_rgb
Tinkerer Username: Mike_rgb
Post Number: 16 Registered: 08-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, October 19, 2006 - 09:50 pm: |
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Sorry I must have sprayed Mike with some LOL. |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 6 Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, October 24, 2006 - 04:36 pm: |
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Door Ease, tallow is what you use to lubricate wood parts. Also some use silicone gell like superlube. |
M_currie
Tinkerer Username: M_currie
Post Number: 15 Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, November 03, 2006 - 08:50 am: |
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I've always found Door Ease good for panels, sliders, drawers, and - oddly enough - doors. It doesn't seem to bleed or seep. But because it doesn't really penetrate, it may not help much on things that are fitted too tightly. It will tend to get scrubbed off pretty quickly. |
Mickeyobe
Tinkerer Username: Mickeyobe
Post Number: 4 Registered: 01-2008
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, August 30, 2009 - 10:43 am: |
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I have some old wooden folders that were quite stiff. Rubbing lightly with a candle cured the problems. |
Tom_cheshire
Tinkerer Username: Tom_cheshire
Post Number: 172 Registered: 04-2009
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, September 08, 2009 - 01:22 pm: |
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Try graphite. |
Glenn
Tinkerer Username: Glenn
Post Number: 658 Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Tuesday, September 08, 2009 - 04:28 pm: |
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"Try Graphite' - Only if you want to risk exchanging the fine patina of age and careful use for a rather nondescript, grubby appearance. I always use a solution of beeswax and pet spirit applied by small bush, on sliding wooden parts - concentration of wax depends on the item and contact area involved. For those wanting a ready blended commercial product I would recommend a product called 'Renaissance Wax', this will not only lubricate the wooden parts but will also polish and protect wood, leather and all metal surfaces. When used on metal or varnished wood, it will produce a non sticky protection that prevents finger marking. As Mike mentioned, Dri-Lube (Teflon spray) is a viable alternative if one wants to use 'new technology', However, I find that the white colour of the dried product is not always acceptable in some circumstances. |
Edward8
Tinkerer Username: Edward8
Post Number: 4 Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 07:39 am: |
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The judicious use of Danish Oil has, in my experience, never harmed wood. |
Glenn
Tinkerer Username: Glenn
Post Number: 769 Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 06:18 pm: |
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Whilst 'Danish Oil' and other proprietary oils of a similar nature definitely protect and will not harm wooden photographic equipment, most of them can be classed as 'drying oils' - hence they will offer little or no medium to long term lubrication. In fact continued use of these products can exacerbate the problem of sticking slides/holders etc. |
Edward8
Tinkerer Username: Edward8
Post Number: 7 Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, April 16, 2010 - 07:54 am: |
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Hello Glenn I don't for a moment suggest that Danish Oil is the solution to use on all occasions. What lubrication was used in the 1860s - and earlier - to grease timber and associated brass components on working cameras? Did they bother? What is your preferred lubricant for wood? Also, if I may, is there a preferred preparation to conserve and nourish a leather camera case. It's an Ensign Selfix, Ross lens, in excellent condition. The case is dry and requires conservation. Here in Australia, we use a product called Dubbin on boots and leather. However, it tends to rot stitching, which is not an entirely satisfactory outcome. Your advice would be appreciated. |
David_nebenzahl
Tinkerer Username: David_nebenzahl
Post Number: 278 Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 01:22 pm: |
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It's hard to know just what was being asked here, as the original post in this thread was not in the interrogative. However, I'll assume that the question was something like "how does one lubricate wooden parts that slide against each other?". The simplest answer to this, in my experience, is plain old candle wax, probably found in any household. (If nothing else, a humble birthday candle will do.) Rub on sliding surfaces. Done. |
Milosdevino
Tinkerer Username: Milosdevino
Post Number: 7 Registered: 03-2010
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Thursday, April 29, 2010 - 04:41 am: |
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Try saddle soap for leather conservation. Most good shoe shops stock it. Just follow the directions. |