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John LeBlanc

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Posted on Monday, August 01, 2005 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Don't use soap! It's hydroscopic - attracts moisture from the air and will swell the wood slightly over time, making the problem worse.
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Pinetar
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Username: Pinetar

Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2006

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Posted on Thursday, October 19, 2006 - 07:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Try tung oil.
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Mike_rgb
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Username: Mike_rgb

Post Number: 15
Registered: 08-2006

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Posted on Thursday, October 19, 2006 - 09:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Tung oil has a great infulance on wood by keeping it from drying out. However it has 1 weakness, & that is when it get's hot, it bleeds out droplets of oil. A 50 percent blend of Tung oil with 50 percent boiled Linseed oil, will dry hard & smooth.

I found a product made by Elmers & Remmington ( Dri-Lube ) make a small spray can of PTFE ( Teflon ). It goes on wet then turns quickly into a dry white teflon powder that will allow wood like drawers, pegs & windows to glide & come loose when needed. It also repels water better than wax & won't swell or shrink the wood.

I have used it on metal also where oil, & grease must never be allowed. PTFE is not a lube like oil, it acts to fill in the low spots making things smoother, & friction free. Less friction = less heat & drag so parts work better, & don't stick.

Mike

Mike

Mike
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Mike_rgb
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Username: Mike_rgb

Post Number: 16
Registered: 08-2006

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Posted on Thursday, October 19, 2006 - 09:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Sorry I must have sprayed Mike with some :-) LOL.
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Paul_ron
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Username: Paul_ron

Post Number: 6
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Tuesday, October 24, 2006 - 04:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Door Ease, tallow is what you use to lubricate wood parts. Also some use silicone gell like superlube.
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M_currie
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Username: M_currie

Post Number: 15
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Friday, November 03, 2006 - 08:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I've always found Door Ease good for panels, sliders, drawers, and - oddly enough - doors. It doesn't seem to bleed or seep. But because it doesn't really penetrate, it may not help much on things that are fitted too tightly. It will tend to get scrubbed off pretty quickly.
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Mickeyobe
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Username: Mickeyobe

Post Number: 4
Registered: 01-2008

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Posted on Sunday, August 30, 2009 - 10:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have some old wooden folders that were quite stiff.

Rubbing lightly with a candle cured the problems.
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Tom_cheshire
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Username: Tom_cheshire

Post Number: 172
Registered: 04-2009

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Posted on Tuesday, September 08, 2009 - 01:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Try graphite.
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 658
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Tuesday, September 08, 2009 - 04:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

"Try Graphite' - Only if you want to risk exchanging the fine patina of age and careful use for a rather nondescript, grubby appearance.

I always use a solution of beeswax and pet spirit applied by small bush, on sliding wooden parts - concentration of wax depends on the item and contact area involved. For those wanting a ready blended commercial product I would recommend a product called 'Renaissance Wax', this will not only lubricate the wooden parts but will also polish and protect wood, leather and all metal surfaces. When used on metal or varnished wood, it will produce a non sticky protection that prevents finger marking.

As Mike mentioned, Dri-Lube (Teflon spray) is a viable alternative if one wants to use 'new technology', However, I find that the white colour of the dried product is not always acceptable in some circumstances.
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Edward8
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Username: Edward8

Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2010

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Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 07:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The judicious use of Danish Oil has, in my experience, never harmed wood.
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 769
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 06:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Whilst 'Danish Oil' and other proprietary oils of a similar nature definitely protect and will not harm wooden photographic equipment, most of them can be classed as 'drying oils' - hence they will offer little or no medium to long term lubrication. In fact continued use of these products can exacerbate the problem of sticking slides/holders etc.
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Edward8
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Username: Edward8

Post Number: 7
Registered: 03-2010

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Posted on Friday, April 16, 2010 - 07:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hello Glenn

I don't for a moment suggest that Danish Oil is the solution to use on all occasions. What lubrication was used in the 1860s - and earlier - to grease timber and associated brass components on working cameras? Did they bother? What is your preferred lubricant for wood?

Also, if I may, is there a preferred preparation to conserve and nourish a leather camera case. It's an Ensign Selfix, Ross lens, in excellent condition. The case is dry and requires conservation. Here in Australia, we use a product called Dubbin on boots and leather. However, it tends to rot stitching, which is not an entirely satisfactory outcome.

Your advice would be appreciated.
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David_nebenzahl
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Username: David_nebenzahl

Post Number: 278
Registered: 12-2009

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Posted on Thursday, April 22, 2010 - 01:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

It's hard to know just what was being asked here, as the original post in this thread was not in the interrogative. However, I'll assume that the question was something like "how does one lubricate wooden parts that slide against each other?".

The simplest answer to this, in my experience, is plain old candle wax, probably found in any household. (If nothing else, a humble birthday candle will do.) Rub on sliding surfaces. Done.
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Milosdevino
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Username: Milosdevino

Post Number: 7
Registered: 03-2010

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Posted on Thursday, April 29, 2010 - 04:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Try saddle soap for leather conservation. Most good shoe shops stock it. Just follow the directions.

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