| Author |
Message |
    
Rayw
Tinkerer
Username: Rayw
Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 12, 2009 - 08:52 am: | 
|
I have ascertained that the pad is fine, I have sprayed the shutter slide contacts with switch cleaner to help with the over.under exposure lamps problem that I had.
When I point at a bright light source, the meter appears to react to the aperture ring being turned.
Also the shutter is firing at different speeds.
The problem I have is that at F11/16 the shutter fires but stays open.
The only way to close it is to step down or turn the winder.
The other problem is that the camera seems unresponsive when not pointed at a direct light source.
Any suggestions? |
Reiner
Tinkerer
Username: Reiner
Post Number: 83
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 12, 2009 - 10:36 pm: |
|
I have had exactly the same problem as your first one and even more I had it with two identical cameras. It turned out to be a power supply issue. I had used a PX28 silver oxide cell and an adaption.
The solution was to use either an A164 alcaline battery (like the original one) or - easier to realize - a CR2 and two alcaline or mercury 625 whatever you have. If they are alcalines they must be new. This set has more capacity to handle the current peaks the shutter causes. With a set like this none of the GSNs I had showed this problem again. A CR123 instead of a CR2 would even be better but they are a bit to long. |
Rayw
Tinkerer
Username: Rayw
Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 13, 2009 - 04:15 am: |
|
Thanks for the advice, I had a PX28 silver oxide in the camera.
I have changed it for a PX28 Alkaline battery, but still have the same problem.
Is it the batteries I'm using that is to blame or could it be something else. |
Monopix
Tinkerer
Username: Monopix
Post Number: 63
Registered: 11-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 13, 2009 - 07:00 am: |
|
I don't know what problem you were having with the under/over exposure lights but, maybe that's a clue to the rest of the problems. If I understand what you are saying it sounds to me like the meter is just very insensitive and is causing long shutter speeds at small apertures and little response with anything other than a bright light source.
It's too long since I worked on one so can't suggest anything specific but I think you need to check out the meter circuit.
Have a look at http://www.monopix.co.uk/gtbattery.shtml for info on batteries. I agree with Reiner, the PX28 isn't adequate but I don't think that's causing your problems.
If you want a service manual, look at http://www.scribd.com/doc/19302555/Yashica-Electro-35-Service-Manual |
Reiner
Tinkerer
Username: Reiner
Post Number: 85
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 13, 2009 - 12:02 pm: |
|
Ray,
a PX28 alcaline is shurely worse than a PX28 silver oxide. But a 164 (= TR32) alcaline is a much bigger battery. It is most likely that not all your problems are battery induced but you will not be happy with a PX28 for long time. I used them for taking fotos and I had sporadicly the problem that the shutter hanged when open, mostly with f=11 or 16. This bug was gone with a CR2 and 2 625er and I made this experience on 2 different GSNs. |
Waynemel
Tinkerer
Username: Waynemel
Post Number: 41
Registered: 08-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 10:20 am: |
|
I have been having a similar problem with an Electro35 GT.
I seemed to have only one shutter speed (1/500) and bulb. When the camera was set to flash, it behaved as if it was set to bulb.
I also noticed that the warning lights behaved oddly. When it was in an over exposure situation, the red light came on, but then went out when the shutter button was fully depressed. I assume this is the proper function of the light. The yellow light, however, did not go out at all.
At slower shutter speeds, the shutter would stay open until I pointed the camera at a brighter light source.
I took off the bottom plate and noticed that the rod for the shutter button did not travel far enough down to engage with the catch that prevents double exposures. I adjusted the position of the rod (it has a slotted end) and I also played with the rod next to it.
This resulted in the flash setting working correctly and the camera operating at different shutter speeds.
However, they only worked properly when the shutter button was depressed very quickly (not good for camera shake). I took the top plate off and there is an adjustment of the rod that the shutter button presses. I played with that a little, and the situation seems to have improved.
I think I need to get a new battery (I was using a 3v and 2 1.5v) to know for sure if the camera is now functioning correctly.
I guess by adjusting the rods, this adjusted the position of the contacts on the shutter release.
This may be the cause of some of the other posters problems. |
Waynemel
Tinkerer
Username: Waynemel
Post Number: 44
Registered: 08-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 18, 2009 - 04:30 pm: |
|
Alright, after doing some digging on the Yashica Guys site (thanks to this forum), I've found the source of my problems - The Pad Of Death.
I replaced the pad and all is good in the world again.
I still have a problem with a shutter that does not fully open.
I have flushed the shutter several times, but it doesn't seem to be working. Can this be a problem related to the battery? |
Djamorpheus
Tinkerer
Username: Djamorpheus
Post Number: 21
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, April 09, 2010 - 02:42 pm: |
|
I have the same problem with the shutter not fully opening, most sources lead me to believe its gunk that has dried over a long time from the helicoid. just keep flushing it with lighter fluid or naptha and then keep winding the shutter and releasing it, then leave it in bulb if you can so the shutter goes inside then clean with qtips, keep doing it over and over again, or you can completely disassemble the lens which i cant figure out how to do past the 2nd lens group. most people suggest to create two holes in the last ring but i dont have the tools to do that. |
Waynemel
Tinkerer
Username: Waynemel
Post Number: 76
Registered: 08-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, April 09, 2010 - 05:54 pm: |
|
I did exactly as you suggest and the shutter is now working beautifully. I really like this camera. The first roll of film I put through it shows the quality of the lens and the accuracy of the metering system. |
Djamorpheus
Tinkerer
Username: Djamorpheus
Post Number: 22
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 04:46 am: |
|
I'm glad it worked for you, my shutter is still stuck at certain points and doesn't open fully! It's frustrating but im sure i'll get it at some point. I heard someone mentioning putting the lens close to a heat source like a lamp to warm up the dry helicoid lubricant and trying to exercise the shutter as i described it. |
Monopix
Tinkerer
Username: Monopix
Post Number: 121
Registered: 11-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 06:17 am: |
|
>or you can completely disassemble the lens which i cant figure out how to do past the 2nd lens group.
Matt Denton's site shows how to get to the shutter. Look here: http://www.mattdentonphoto.com/cameras/electro_inside/index.html
And if you want to split the helical to regrease it look at my previous posts here: https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/forum/messages/2/17342.html |
Djamorpheus
Tinkerer
Username: Djamorpheus
Post Number: 23
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 07:00 am: |
|
He doesn't really, my GTN doesn't have the holes necessary to take out the retaining part that lifts out the electronics in the lens. |
Monopix
Tinkerer
Username: Monopix
Post Number: 122
Registered: 11-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 10:43 am: |
|
Not sure which bit you mean. Do you mean removing the shutter? You have to do that from the back. Or the part immediately in front of the shutter with the contacts on it. That comes off by removing the scalloped ring (as Matt calls it). Is yours different? All the ones I've ever seen are as the one in Matt's pictures. |
Djamorpheus
Tinkerer
Username: Djamorpheus
Post Number: 24
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2010 - 03:41 pm: |
|
After i take out the second element, the ring that the second element sits on is un-screwable i heard that you have you create holes in it to be able to turn it. I'll try to get a picture tomorrow, its a bit late right now. |
Monopix
Tinkerer
Username: Monopix
Post Number: 123
Registered: 11-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 11, 2010 - 03:44 pm: |
|
Hmm. I'm starting to think we're talking about different cameras, or maybe we exist in different time dimensions or something (I'm in a weird mood).
Sounds like you're separating the elements. The whole front group comes out as one so I really don't understand. A picture would be good. |
Btgc
Tinkerer
Username: Btgc
Post Number: 28
Registered: 01-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 12:14 am: |
|
Electro 35 G-series appeared in several variations and that's not unusual for manufacturers to change (sometimes improve, sometims cheapen) construction over time. |
Paul_c
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_c
Post Number: 11
Registered: 02-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 02:58 am: |
|
The front lens elements should be one piece(see first picture)But on my GSN they unscrew apart so You have to dril(1 mm)holes in the retainingring to get the second lenselement out(see second picture,ring left below)  
regards, |
Monopix
Tinkerer
Username: Monopix
Post Number: 124
Registered: 11-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 03:40 am: |
|
So, do you mean there are two different arrangements or do you mean, they are all the same but sometimes, instead of the assembly coming out as a whole, the front element comes off and then you have the problem of removing the second element? |
Paul_c
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_c
Post Number: 12
Registered: 02-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 04:22 am: |
|
I think they are all the same(in one piece),if they were different Yashica would have drilled the holes already to remove the second lenselement.
Maybe my GSN is dismantled before,first time the front lens comes out in one piece,then one can take it apart for cleaning and screw it back on again. The second time You have the problem as described here. |
Djamorpheus
Tinkerer
Username: Djamorpheus
Post Number: 26
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 06:05 am: |
|
The group doesn't come out in one go, after i take out the name plate, i have to take out the retaining rings and lens elements seperately, until i hit the retaining ring that is past the second element as shown on the bottom right of the second image(to the right). I realize that i have to drill holes but i dont have the tools to do so, so unsticking the blades is becoming a pain, at some points i think that i've fixed it, then i put everything back together and the problem reoccurs. |
Djamorpheus
Tinkerer
Username: Djamorpheus
Post Number: 27
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 06:50 am: |
|
i just managed to take it out by using a spanner wrench and a film canister door (which had a lot of rubber on the underside) it fit perfectly! |
Paul_c
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_c
Post Number: 13
Registered: 02-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 08:28 am: |
|
For cleaning the shutterblades there is no need to remove the last ring(second picture,below,left)Just remove the retaining-ring(sec.pict. below right)ther are tiny holes for a spanner.Then remove the lens to reach the blades.
But I'm too late with this option as You found a solution. |
Djamorpheus
Tinkerer
Username: Djamorpheus
Post Number: 28
Registered: 10-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, April 12, 2010 - 10:47 am: |
|
Well it's a good thing that i opened up to the shutter mechanism, because the problem i'm having is sometimes the shutter wont trip it'll just go click. I used a photo from matt denton's site just as stock since i cant find my digital camera :D
Part B sometimes doesn't engage into part C, it is as if it is not traveling far enough to catch on. |
Kanjiruminamoto
Tinkerer
Username: Kanjiruminamoto
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 12:47 am: |
|
my father gave me his Yashica gsn for me to use in my photography class but i had found out that it needs to be cleaned and check if it has malfunctioned because it has not been use for 30 years i think, and this forum site helps me well and i am still in the process of cleaning my GSN and it has i think a root like stain in between the lense element that's behind the shutter, how can i clean it or remove the lense?
thanks in advance for replies!
kanjiruminamoto(not true name) |
