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Trematode
Tinkerer
Username: Trematode
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 15, 2010 - 11:37 pm: | 
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Hi, I am playing around with a Minolta XG7. The batteries don't seem to work, and I think its likely the capacitors. The On/Off switch mechanism seems loose, so I am trying to look at this in more detail. Problem is, I can't get the topcover off. I've attached a picture. I think the problem is on the right hand side, where the film advance lever sits. I can't seem to budge anything around this area. Any ideas? |
Trematode
Tinkerer
Username: Trematode
Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 15, 2010 - 11:43 pm: |
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oops, here's a picture  |
Brcamera
Tinkerer
Username: Brcamera
Post Number: 58
Registered: 08-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, November 15, 2010 - 11:53 pm: |
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The brass nut under the wind lever and around the wind shaft needs to be removed. It has two notches so you can use a spanner wrench to remove it. |
Trematode
Tinkerer
Username: Trematode
Post Number: 3
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 01:35 pm: |
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Cool! Finally found a tool to open that particular nut. Thanks. |
Ron_g
Tinkerer
Username: Ron_g
Post Number: 52
Registered: 07-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 03:09 pm: |
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I made a tool to remove those nuts by turning down a piece of 1/2" black iron pipe on my lathe and filing the small end down to create the lugs that engage the notches in the nut.It worked well but is not very durable as the iron is not sturdy enough to withstand the strain of using it and the tips break off.I may make another someday out of better stock.Ron G |
Ron_g
Tinkerer
Username: Ron_g
Post Number: 53
Registered: 07-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 03:11 pm: |
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I made a tool to remove those nuts by turning down a piece of 1/2" black iron pipe on my lathe and filing the small end down to create the lugs that engage the notches in the nut.It worked well but is not very durable as the iron is not sturdy enough to withstand the strain of using it and the tips break off.I may make another someday out of better stock.Ron G |
Greyscale
Tinkerer
Username: Greyscale
Post Number: 24
Registered: 07-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 08:38 pm: |
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The on/off switch is probably loose because you are missing the tiny ball-bearing detent that goes in the hole behind the rewind crank. |
Waynemel
Tinkerer
Username: Waynemel
Post Number: 179
Registered: 08-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 08:56 pm: |
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I had a similar loose on/off switch. It turned out that the plastic post that the switch pivots on was actually broken. It can be seen in your photo on the left hand side with the threaded brass(?) bushing inside. I had to use a part from a donor camera to make the repair.
Greyscale is correct though...that little ball bearing can be easy to lose. |
Greyscale
Tinkerer
Username: Greyscale
Post Number: 25
Registered: 07-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 10:06 pm: |
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Waynemel, that is exactly the same repair that I had to make. Which is also how I learned about the ball bearing, and exactly how easy it is to lose. Luckily, I did not lose the one from the donor. |
Trematode
Tinkerer
Username: Trematode
Post Number: 4
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, November 19, 2010 - 08:21 pm: |
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Thanks a lot folks, I got it open. The little ball/spring in the on/off switch is still there, but the plastic part it pushes onto is worn and a bit loose. However, I think the problem is in the capacitors. It intermittently works; got the camera fully up and running for 1 roll of film and then it locked up again, and there is no power going into the camera. I hear these cameras were prone to capacitor problems? |
