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Sirdavy
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Username: Sirdavy

Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2011

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Posted on Monday, February 21, 2011 - 08:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I'm repairing a Konica S2; its shutter wasn't firing and its aperture blades weren't moving.

With a few drops of lighter fluid/naptha I've managed to get the shutter firing regularly and although the aperture will move now it's pretty sluggish. I thought rebending the tiny hair spring might help but in doing so I have completely mangled the spring. so my questions are:

where would you recommend I try to find a new spring?

once I've replaced it how do I stop the aperture blades from sticking? is there a recommended lubricant?
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Donnie_strickland
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Username: Donnie_strickland

Post Number: 110
Registered: 09-2006

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Posted on Monday, February 21, 2011 - 10:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

If you have any junk cameras you can dig through, you might find a suitable spring...of course another S2 could furnish a replacement.

If the blades are still sluggish, they're not clean. Lubrication will only make the problem worse. Keep cleaning.
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Sirdavy
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Username: Sirdavy

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2011 - 02:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks Donnie.

I don't have any junk lenses available and don't really want to buy another s2 in case its spring is also weak.

Any thoughts on making one from a .007 guitar string?
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Donnie_strickland
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Username: Donnie_strickland

Post Number: 111
Registered: 09-2006

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2011 - 04:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Well, you've nothing to lose by trying, so I'd say give it a shot.
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Sirdavy
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Username: Sirdavy

Post Number: 3
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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2011 - 05:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I've gone ahead and replaced the spring with a length of .009 guitar string ( no doubt it will be far too strong for the auto aperture function). The aperture returns open nice and snappily when the lens is separated from the camera body. However, when I hold the lens back on the camera body the aperture gets stuck around f2.8 and it will only snap open when the lens is jiggled a bit.

I suspect that the screw head on the aperture lever, the one that makes contact with the aperture ring is snagging on something on the camera body. Is that a familiar problem?
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Donnie_strickland
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Username: Donnie_strickland

Post Number: 112
Registered: 09-2006

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Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2011 - 11:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I'm haven't run into that, but it wouldn't hurt to check it.
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Gez
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Username: Gez

Post Number: 261
Registered: 09-2007

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Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2011 - 02:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have encountered a similar problem with an S2. After working on it occasionally for 2 years and finally reassembling the lens and attaching the front panel to the body a problem still remains. The shutter works fine and the aperture blades open and close when set manually but the aperture blades will hardly move at all when set to Auto. The meter needle will give a reading of say f16 but this will not result in the aperture closing to f16.
It seems as though the semi-circular brass lever inside the lens (not the one on the back of the front panel) isn't engaging with the spring loaded aperture tab. Other than a part having gone missing during a previous 'service', the cause is baffling. Any suggestions?
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Neuberger
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Username: Neuberger

Post Number: 33
Registered: 01-2010

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Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 08:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I once bought a whole cardboard box full of remains that had survived the closing down of a camera repair shop. After sorting out the scrap I had enough spares for rebuilding several K2s from the heap. One of those composite creatures behaved like the ones you describe, the reason im my case was still dirty blades, there was oily goo and gunk in remote corners of the blades' bearings and I had to take them out again, this being among the last steps of a complete ripping evertything apart again.
The lesson for me to learn was, sometimes it is inevitable to go all the way once and again.
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Sirdavy
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Username: Sirdavy

Post Number: 4
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Posted on Friday, February 25, 2011 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I figured out what was wrong. The length of guitar wire (gauge .007) I'd cut for the spring was too long, maybe by 2-3mm, and was catching on something when the lens was seated up against the camera body. Once trimmed the aperture opens all the way to 1.8.

I've also glued the tiny rangefinder mirror back on to its tiny stand - wow, that was tricky without a set of rubber tipped tweezers. Needs a steady hand and the right kind of glue.

I've put in a Wein Cell and an Alkaline PX625 and the metering compares quite closely with my Panasonic Lx3.

One problem - set to Auto, while the meter is showing f16 I can see the aperture is only closing to about f4/f5.6.

What's causing that? Do you think the .007 wire is out of balance with the rest of the springs inside? Or is it something to do with the semi-circular brass lever mentioned by Gez? (Gez - do you mean the one on the camera body?)

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