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Feruruguay
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Username: Feruruguay

Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2011

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Posted on Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 12:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hello:
I am doing some light service to an AV1 I bought used.
I searched the web for instructions on how to taking apart an AV1, but I had no success.
Anyboy here can tell me where can I find a repair manual or instructions on how to dismantle this machine?

Thanks you in advence

Fernando
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Gez
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Username: Gez

Post Number: 272
Registered: 09-2007

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Posted on Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 04:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I am also looking for a service manual for the Canon AV-1.
The top cover is easy to remove; set to 'A' and 100asa, unscrew the winder cap, remove the C-clip under the rewind hub, remove the front cover to the mount then unscrew all the screws holding the top cover. Lift off gently, there are 2 wires from the hotshoe, unsolder them at the prism circuit board.
To get to the release solenoid the front panel will need to be moved. Don't do this unless it is essential. Peel off the very thick leatherettes, unscrew the 2 screws holding the battery door and surround, watch out for the door spring. Now for the difficult part. There are 5 or 6 wires from the circuit board to the mirror box, carefully unsolder them and note their color. The front panel can now be removed after unscrewing the 4 screws.
To test the solenoids, remove the bottom plate. The timing solenoid has a resistance of about 200 Ohms, the release solenoid a resistance of about 90 Ohms. If the camera appears jammed and won't release, unsolder the red and black wires leading to the release solenoid, apply 6V, if wound the shutter will release, if nothing happens either the solenoid is defective, or more likely the wind pinion at the top of the camera is stuck. To repair the electronics you will need the factory service manual.
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Feruruguay
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Username: Feruruguay

Post Number: 2
Registered: 04-2011

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Posted on Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks you very much for your help. I would not mess around with soldering iron here, too tiny soldering for my poor skill.
I found the "squeak shutter sound" repair in youtube that would be helpful for someone
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90eAbMq9h4Q&feature=related

cheers
FER
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 906
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 10:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

re the above link.

Kitchen knife to remove +head screws! I am surprised he didn't use an axe to remove the top plate and then get out the can of WD 40.

The method on the clip is just one of a number of ways available to mask the infamous squeal/squeak. Unfortunately as the mirror damper unit was designed to run dry, dripping oil into the unknown does not remove the cause - Wear in the side plate bearing holes that support the hardened flywheel shaft. It is the oscillation of the flywheel shaft, as it rotates out of true, that causes the noise. There are ways of repairing the bearing holes, but the techniques belong in the watch/clock repairers workshop.
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Feruruguay
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Username: Feruruguay

Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2011

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Posted on Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 04:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I assumed somo humor in the knife-screwdriver scene, but nothing more serious, hhahaha....
I understando that a "perfect" method woud be very costly. Here in Uruguay such service costs something U$S150, pretty more than the cost of the used camera. So masking it with some oil it is pretty a good choice, at least for me.
Cheers

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