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Fabio
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Username: Fabio

Post Number: 12
Registered: 09-2009

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Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 06:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Hi all.
I just got my "new" M3!!
As expected I have some "less than perfect" reading on the rangefinder, expecially at close distances.
I should have quite clear the points (screws) to "touch". But those screws are quite tight and they can be accessed, from lens opening, at a, slight angle.
What is the best tool to use? Do someone has experience and suggestions???

Many thanks to all

Fabio
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Glenn
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Username: Glenn

Post Number: 915
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 01:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

For the vertical adjustment use a small screwdriver that fits the screw slot without any play or sloppiness - after removing the 'cover' screw of in the front of the top plate. The eccentrics that adjust the infinity, 10 metre and 1 metre settings are adjusted via the open lens mount. Do not start poking a screwdriver in at an angle. I use a small rightangled ratchet driver made specifically for the purpose, again using a proper fitting slot head driver bit.

One can very easily make rightangled drivers by welding suitable driver bits onto a length of 1/4" silver steel bar. For this particular job one should ascertain the the position of the slot in the screwhead and then before welding up, align the steel bar with the driver bit so one has maximum rotation of the bar in the direction of loosening the screw before fouling the lens mount. Cheap commercially made rightangle screwdrivers usually have a tip at each end of the bar and each is aligned at a different angle to the axis of the bar. This allows screws to be fully rotated in tight spaces. If you go down the 'make it yourself route', you may find that making two drivers with different tip alignments will simplify the adjustment procedure.
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Fabio
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Username: Fabio

Post Number: 13
Registered: 09-2009

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Posted on Thursday, April 28, 2011 - 02:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Many thanks Glenn!

Your directions helped me a lot to clarify my vague ideas: I was thinking on some sort of tool like the one you suggest but was not able to "visualize" it.

As the infinity eccentric looks like someone (in my M3's 55 years of life) has somewhat "tampered" with it and slightly damaged the head slot I need a good tool to avoid further damage. My not long experience won't be of great help there....
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Glenn
Tinkerer
Username: Glenn

Post Number: 916
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Thursday, April 28, 2011 - 09:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Fabio,

I do not know what workshop facilities you have for DIY tool making, so have had a look in my tools to see if there is an over the counter item that modifies easily. That is should you want to spend a few Euros.

MicroTools in Germany sell Wiha drivers, bits and bit holders etc and Wiha tool reference 280 UTG is a slimline bit holder made from glass reinforced plastic. The bits are formed from 4,00mm hex bar and are held in a small chuck on the end of the driver handle.

If you cut off the chuck leaving about 10mm of actual handle attached, drill a 3mm hole in the 10mm section and then push a piece of silver steel (high tensile) bar into the hole-you have a rightangle bit holder. Because the driver bits are formed from hex bar, it is possible to alter the position of the driver tip in relation to the axis of the 3mm tommy bar - thus you can full rotate screws in confined spaces without recourse to a ratchet driver. A bit fiddly, but when needs must why bother?

In order to seat the bit in the modified handle, so that the end of the tool fits into the mount throat, you may have to grind the end of the bit off - so that it seats down in the chuck without fouling the inserted tommy bar. Well you do with the bits I have as they are all long form - approx 35mm in length. Wiha used to make bits that were approx 20mm in length, but not sure of the present availability of these. Unfortunately I do not know the MicroTool reference numbers for the slothead bits you require.

Have a look on the MicroTools' site, they sell camera specific tools and the ones for the M Series make a full stripdown less of a problem. You may even find an Italian firm that does the same tools.
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Fabio
Tinkerer
Username: Fabio

Post Number: 14
Registered: 09-2009

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Posted on Friday, April 29, 2011 - 04:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

That's a good idea, Glenn.
Probably this could be the best approximation to original Leica tool (on Leica M2 service manual I found they actually cite a "angle screwdriver" for that purpose)!

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