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Old_school
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Username: Old_school

Post Number: 23
Registered: 04-2011

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Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2011 - 12:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I finally got the order from Micro-Tools, thought it did not go through. The sheets of foam are ok, Plybond, Varta 625v cells, UV glue, & the 1n34 A diodes.
Has anyone seen this article?
http://www.ihagee.org/batt-adapt-us.pdf
Very informative & a whole lot of technical things on the conversion to silver energy cells. If you haven't, do so. Please give a little feed back as if I understand it, He recommends Shottky 1N5711 or 1N6263 diodes & how to mod. a cell.
I can see going through all this trouble & it getting pitched.
Ok, I dug into My FTbn & installed the 1N34A inside. Attached it to the black wire from the energy cell compartment to the power switch. If I recall correctly, the far left variable is the bat. test, the center is bright, & right is the low light. I don't see any reason not to just calibrate the bat, test as it is just a resistance check on this model. I used my bench light to check cal. & balanced the two levels, using a digital cam for a ref. meter as that is the only thing available.
Looks good from what I can tell. Will have to try it with film.
Will have to figure out an adapter for the energy cell as silver cell appears to be the way to go. Yanked the wires off of the hot shoe on this unit as one side is broken & I am not a big fan of flash anyway. ? If I left the wires connected & did connect a flash to the front I know it would light me up, as too easy to make contact with the shoe.
I used a foam on the prism clamp, before my order came that seams to be just as adequate. It is a lot less expensive than the other supplier. I can't remember if i got it at Michael's or the other place. Anyway, it comes in sheets about the size of an old desk bloter for like $1.50 or so in different colors. The kids use this stuff for art projects. I have been using it for my bench mat. It now has a corner missing a chunk, that I used for the prism.
Wane: If you catch this in time & have that mirror box out, check the curtains for parallel with each other & the aperture, & a good overlap on the wind cycle.
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Ron_g
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Username: Ron_g

Post Number: 76
Registered: 07-2009

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Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2011 - 03:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I modify my Konicas by adjusting the trim pot,actually it is just a variable resistor to reflect the voltage published in their service literature for the camera that I am working on.
That would be for the 1.5 volt battery so that I can use the silver oxide cells with the camera.
I use the 675 Zinc Air hearing aid batteries until I get the opportunity to modify the camera.
In many cases the diode will be the solution I imagine as you may not be able to adjust the voltage with just a variable resistor.
In some cases you may be able place a variable resistor in line with the voltage source and adjust it for the proper voltage,remove it and measure the resistance then replace it with a carbon fixed resistor of the same value or very close at least and do the modification that way.Ron G
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Don
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Username: Don

Post Number: 63
Registered: 07-2006

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Posted on Saturday, April 30, 2011 - 06:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I use "spent" 357SO batteries as a mercury replacement. When they no longer power
an "electronic everything" model, there still is about 1.35v left. I recently used 1 in a Canon TX ( baby FTb). Works fine. Batteries were used in a Minolta X370 --used on B a lot of the time for slide duping & model RR photography. A 357 will work in an SRT by just adjusting the pot. No need for anything fancy if the metering system is in good order.
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Old_school
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Username: Old_school

Post Number: 30
Registered: 04-2011

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Posted on Monday, May 09, 2011 - 04:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Replacing the foam behind the mirror box assy. in my Canon Pellix & thought this camera is way to loud for what it is and no mirror to go ca-chunk! I noticed that there is a governor on the side of the mirror box, do not have any manuals on this camera, so pulled the box off the front plate & lubricated it & made sure the rest of the camera was lubricated. That helped a lot, but it still was awful loud. So I used another technique that I've seen in other applications to reduce levels of spring noise devices. I fished small slivers of a foam material through all the springs to reduce the resonating ring. Big difference, reduced the clatter to a minimal shutter clacking, by probably 60 to 75 percent.
Thought I would pass it on or as it is put, "Kick it down the road a bit!"
Later!
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Cooltouch
Tinkerer
Username: Cooltouch

Post Number: 90
Registered: 01-2009

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Posted on Saturday, May 21, 2011 - 02:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I noticed from the chart shown in the pdf that the zinc-air batteries have the same sort of discharge profile as the old px625s. I use the 675 zinc air hearing aid batteries in my FTbs and my Canon F-1 and my QL-17. Even my old Nikon F with early Photomic finder. So, since the 675s have the same discharge profile, I guess I gotta ask, why bother going through all this? Just adapt the 675 to whichever camera you need to use it with.
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Old_school
Tinkerer
Username: Old_school

Post Number: 57
Registered: 04-2011

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Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2011 - 10:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

CT:

What I understand from the article is the silver cells are more stable in temperature ranges & the voltage is more constant.
I had thought, that to find the current draw & the voltage drop required & calculate a resistor for the circuits, but the article hints that is not as easy as it sounds. It appears there is a whole lot of engineering that goes into the exact voltage & current usage in that little simple circuit. I think it was the article listed above, it was a British paper & if you have ever read anything technical they write it some times gets very overwhelming. By the way hearing aide energy cells do not have good seals on them & may leak, so check them often. People were putting them in Accutron watches, they leaked & destroyed the watch.
Same thing with that card of energy cells from China, they leak & real bad. Alkaline is very nasty to metals that is why it is in a stainless steel casing. If it leaks, the fluids will wick into the wires & travel along the circuit like a little channel.
Sorry, got a little carried away there...

The Best Mike...
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Cooltouch
Tinkerer
Username: Cooltouch

Post Number: 97
Registered: 01-2009

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Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 01:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks for the pointers, Old_school. Yes, I discovered this past winter that 675s don't work well in the cold. Seems that, as expensive as hearing aids are, though, they'd take better care of leakage issues. Then again, I've seen the best brands leak . . . eventually.

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