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Rsrinivas
Tinkerer
Username: Rsrinivas
Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 14, 2011 - 09:06 pm: | 
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Hi:
I have an Optar 90mm lens with a Full Synchromatic Graphex shutter (No. 1 type) made by Wollensak that seems to be sticky. This is different from my Optar 135mm/Graphex No. 2 shutter I had written earlier about that now works fine.
I removed the lens elements, opened up the nameplate and the cam assembly. I then dunked the whole thing in lighter fluid, left it overnight and then dried it out. The shutter blades now open and close in slow motion - no improvement from prior to the flush, maybe a bit worse. I need to help the blades along by repeatedly pressing the focus/preview lever for the shutter to close. This is with the shutter case open. One other thing I noticed is when I cock the shutter and press and release the preview/focus button, the shutter blades do not close fully. I see a small pinhole open.
The aperture leaves open and close smoothly and I don't see any problems with that.
Any ideas on what I should do next? |
Michael_linn
Tinkerer
Username: Michael_linn
Post Number: 5
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 14, 2011 - 11:15 pm: |
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Dunk it in again for several days.
Swish it around a bit. It's obvious that you are on the right track.
If that does not work, you will have to disassemble it and clean the components individually.
I think that it is similar to a Rapax, which should be in the archives (maybe). |
Rsrinivas
Tinkerer
Username: Rsrinivas
Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 10:02 am: |
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I forgot to mention that I put the shutter in an ultrasonic cleaner for a couple of runs. What is the right way to use an ultrasonic cleaner? The manual asks it to be filled with water. So I put lighter fluid plus shutter in a plastic watertight ziploc bag and then put that in the water before turning it on.
If I have to disassemble, then what should I do about the springs? Any particular tricks on how to release them and then put them back? For grease, I have either 60% moly paste or lithium based hi-temp multipurpose grease. Can I use either one?
Thanks! |
Old_school
Tinkerer
Username: Old_school
Post Number: 36
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 12:31 pm: |
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When using an ultrasonic cleaner, an old tall glass jar will suffice, no lid, leave the top open. Fill the tank with water as you described, enough to compensate for the jar displacement so it doesn't over flow. The ultrasonic cleaner cavitation action is best with the item you are cleaning off of the bottom at least 1/2 inch. And the best form is a complete dismantling so the solution can get in & the cavitation vibrate the dirt off. At best to a component level such as the governor & blades are out. A good cleaning agent such as watch cleaning solution for a start & than a two or three step rinse in the ultrasonic rinse solution is good. Micro-Tools has some to offer & a environmental favorable one which I have no information or knowledge of its performance. I would caution the use of lighter fluid in an ultrasonic as so does the MFG if you read their guide lines as to flammable. TIme should be about ten to 15 minutes per solution, A tea ball suspended in the jar works good for parts & when you change to another solution you can blot & blow out the solution to reduce contamination of the next solution.
When finished with the cleaning & rinse cycle, blow out with an air squeeze ball (ear syringe) to get the excess of as much as possible, than use a hair dryer to heat the components to a light heat to rid any possible water or rinse residue. Lay the them out for assembly on some lint free paper, like watch paper. Before dismantling the unit I would put a small scribe mark as to where the first balde lives, so as to put it back where it resides on assembly. Check out the little article I wrote up on Tricks For Leaf Shutters. What ever grease you use, I use a molly type as if the base agent dries the molly will still lubricate but some times it is to slick & a graphite may be needed, use a very fine point artist brush to apply to the area of high torque. It does not take much, if a little is good less is better as my instructor put it. As far as the springs go, I have a pair of HUNTER Numer 7 & ERMA Number 00SA which are both very stout in strength & stainless steel & a fine point PEER Number 7 & DUMONT S for fine work. If you are close to Cincinnati, OH stop in to CAS-KER & check out there discout section as there prices are good, other wise you can go on line & hut for a good price. I can't believe the cost of these tools over the years. I managed to pick up mine from old surplus stores, that are long gone. I bought a few in Switzerland in 1995 & could not believe what they cost then & there at that time. |
Old_school
Tinkerer
Username: Old_school
Post Number: 37
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 09:12 pm: |
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Also look at this below for a few tips as I put some info. there too:
Canonet QL17 GIII hangs on 1/8 |
Rsrinivas
Tinkerer
Username: Rsrinivas
Post Number: 7
Registered: 05-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 15, 2011 - 11:04 pm: |
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Thanks!
I will soak it for a couple more days and retry ultrasonic cleaning for a longer period. If that doesn't work, then I will have to disassemble the works.
I live near San Jose, CA. Do you know of any stores that might have these supplies to which you are referring? |
Old_school
Tinkerer
Username: Old_school
Post Number: 38
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 16, 2011 - 01:12 am: |
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Here are a few places to check out, try Micro-Tools first or Best jewelry supplies is local area for you, don't know what they carry.
http://twincitysupply.net/home.php?cat=249&page=1
http://julesborel.com/
http://www.cas-ker.com/
http://www.micro-tools.com/store/SearchByCategory.aspx?CategoryCode=30
http://www.bestjewelrysupply.com/ |
Rsrinivas
Tinkerer
Username: Rsrinivas
Post Number: 8
Registered: 05-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, May 22, 2011 - 11:05 am: |
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Hi everybody:
I have an update on this first CLA attempt by this noob.
I soaked the shutter for several days, buzzed it in the ultrasonic cleaner for more than 10 mins, let it dry and tried again. It still would not work correctly and kept getting stuck. So I removed the synchronizer and the retard portion of the shutter and lubed the various portions as indicated by the manual. That pretty much did the trick. The good news is that it now opens and closes correctly and does not get stuck.
The one problem that still remains is that it seems to take a team of wild horses to turn the speed ring past the 1/100 mark to go to 1/200 and 1/400 speeds. On the other hand, the slow speeds are smooth. Not having a shutter tester, I don't know if the speeds are accurate or not, but at least the slow speeds seem right.
So is there a trick to finding out why the speed setting ring is not smooth and find a way to fix that? |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 93
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2011 - 11:19 am: |
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From what I understand, when most of these shutters were designed, speeds beyond 1/100 were not neccessary for the slow films around then.
Later on, as films got faster, more speeds were needed to compensate for this. In order to keep the basic configuration of the original design, most manufacturers added another spring to create the higher speeds. It is this spring that is being tensioned when you set the 1/200 or higher speed on the shutter, and requires added force.
However, if you got things a bit too tight when reassembling your shutter, then maybe that is causing the excessive force needed to set 1/200 or above. It should be greater than what it takes to set the lower speeds, but not excessive.
PF |
Brianshaw
Tinkerer
Username: Brianshaw
Post Number: 108
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2011 - 03:09 pm: |
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I believe the helper spring is only used for 1/400, not 1/200. |
Brianshaw
Tinkerer
Username: Brianshaw
Post Number: 109
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2011 - 03:12 pm: |
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OK, I just looked in the repair manual. Helper spring (high speed Spring) is used for 1/400 for the Nr. 2 Graphex shutter, but 1/200 for the Nr. 3 Graphex shutter. |
