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Sir_charges
Tinkerer
Username: Sir_charges
Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, June 04, 2011 - 10:17 pm: | 
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hi everybody,
I have just bought a BRAUN super paxette IILB in amazing condition. However, the rangefinder does appear to be out slightly. Does this mean that my photos will be out of focus (yet to develop first film)? If I measure 1m from object to base of lens, I should have the 1m selected on my lens?
Also, the shutters are a little sticky.
I hope this all makes sense, any help or recommendations would be fantastic!
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Scott
Tinkerer
Username: Scott
Post Number: 141
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, June 04, 2011 - 10:39 pm: |
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Rangefinders in cameras that old usually need some adjustment. Sometimes there is a hole for a screwdriver, but usually the top cover needs to be taken off in order to access the adjusting screws. The RF is simply a reference, and if the RF mechanism is not adjusted properly, then it will not correlate with the image at the film plane.
However, the distance markings on the lens will almost never need adjusting, so you can focus that way—just estimate the distance, and then set the distance scale. You might find that precise focus is seldom all that critical, unless you are using slow film in low light (i.e. using larger apertures).
As for what to do about the sticky shutter, that sort of procedure has been dealt with at length in a number of articles and discussions on this site previously, so you will find lot of tips by searching for that topic. |
Sir_charges
Tinkerer
Username: Sir_charges
Post Number: 2
Registered: 06-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, June 04, 2011 - 11:56 pm: |
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Cheers Scott, I did a quick search but wasn't sure if "one method suited all" as far as a remedy for sticky shutters go. |
John_s
Tinkerer
Username: John_s
Post Number: 50
Registered: 07-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 04:34 am: |
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Distance should be measured from the film plane, i.e. effectively the back of the camera. You are better off verifying the focus using a distant object, anything further than say 100 metres can be used. If this doesn't coincide with the infinity mark on the lens barrel then the rangefinder needs adjusting as stated. |
Chiccolini
Tinkerer
Username: Chiccolini
Post Number: 131
Registered: 06-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 06:41 am: |
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Sometimes the access hole for the rangefinder adjustment will be under the cover in the accessory shoe or there will be a little cover on the back side of the top deck. It may be the rangefinder does not need adjusting but cleaning and lubricating because the arm is sluggish. A RF is a convenience you don't need to use to actually use the camera.
The only speeds you really need are 1/25 (or 1/30) and higher. If the shutter is sticky at those higher speeds then yes it needs a cleaning. Otherwise, most photos are shot in the 60 to 250 range so the lower speeds being out is no problem. My way around these problems is to set the shutter to B and shoot. As fast as I can click is 1/10, normal click is 1/5, slower than that I can count off the seconds. |
Paul_ron
Tinkerer
Username: Paul_ron
Post Number: 258
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 07:40 am: |
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Focus has to be adjusted film plane to rangefinder n varified by a ground glass on the film plane.
Generally they are adjusted to infinity using a colimeter. Setting up a well lit target is a good way to achieve the same result although not really accurate, good enough to get it in range.
One word of caution, do not clean the beam splitter of old rangefinders. The silvering is very delicate and may wipe off very easily. |
Old_school
Tinkerer
Username: Old_school
Post Number: 66
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 09:01 am: |
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Sir:
The Film plane is usually indicated on the top cover by a circle with a line through it. So, for a quick check measure from the object to the indexed point on the camera deck lid. The ground glass on the film plane will work for a visual check also, as stated above along with the collimator. The service shop would put a roll of film or a first surface mirror on the film plane to check for focus.
The shutter sticking problem, if the shutter blades have oil on them. Stop using the camera & have it serviced to prevent damage to it. Some of the people have recommended exercising shutters that have been sitting for some time & this is not good. The oils & greases dry out after so many years. If it is not cleaned & lubed correctly the damage could be irreparable or extremely expensive. The friction on the pivots of the governor, self time, flash synch, & film transport will gaul with out the lubricants.
So, if the shutter needs service, then send it out & they should calibrate the rangefinder in the process. Unless you are thinking of servicing it yourself, then welcome to the form & good luck!
The Best Mike.... |
Scott
Tinkerer
Username: Scott
Post Number: 144
Registered: 07-2006
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, June 06, 2011 - 10:33 pm: |
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My way to remedy the sticky leaf shutter malady is to first remove all lens elements from the front and the back. Set shutter speed to 1/30 or nearest. Then drop 3-4 drops of naptha onto the shutter leaves, tilt the camera around so that the solvent can ditribute evenly, then release the shutter a few times. That usually makes it open. If not, set on B, hold down the release, and nudge the shutter open gently with something blunt and not too hard (e.g. a wooden chopstick or toothpick).
Once shutter is opening and closing, fold a square inch of paper towel into a very tight, small wad, and use tweezers to wipe the shutter blades dry. Drip 3-4 drops more, tilt, release shutter a few times, repeat wiping with a clean wad of paper. Do it to both the front and back of the blades. Repeat as necessary until the shutter releases normally. Wait a few minutes for the solvent to dry completely and test again.
If it is opening normally on speeds at or above 1/30, but staying open too long on 1/4 or 1/2, then your problem is in the slow-speed escapement gears. Gain access to the gearbox are apply 3 drops of naptha directly to the gearing, release the shutter on 1 second, repeat until it sounds about right. |
Sir_charges
Tinkerer
Username: Sir_charges
Post Number: 3
Registered: 06-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, June 07, 2011 - 04:17 am: |
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Hi all,
Thank you all for the tremendous replies!
The rangefinder seems to be ok after testing it using the method described by John S (thankyou John), and measuring to the film plane does make more sense than to the base of the lens. I could not find the indicator for the film plane on the casing and i am not sure what is ment by the "ground glass on the film plane".
The sticky shutter (insert ominous music);
The shutter works well sometimes, negligent of the shutter speed. If it fails to fire, flicking the shutter lever/button will work. This is also the case for activating the timer but once the timer counts down, the shutter will always work. Scott if I set the shutter on B and then nudge the shutter with a toothpick they will not open. The B setting has so far only operated correctly once. SO......
........ could the shutters be ok and there be another cause? I have used a sturdy piece of wire to activate the remote (?) release for the shutter (the small hole above shutter release?) this seems to work as intermittently
as the shutter release itself.
The shutter seem to be clear of any oil but does have a small blemish close to the outer part of one of the leaves. I hope to clean them soon.
Cheers Marke. |
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