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Mjtolan
Tinkerer
Username: Mjtolan
Post Number: 8
Registered: 04-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, August 28, 2011 - 09:59 pm: | 
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I have a pair (one Ricoh proper, the other Sears) of the TLS model. Original Singlex, I believe, with the Shutter dial on the front of the body, not on top. Both black and look like new and share the same 2 problems: (1) The meter reading is underexposure exactly 2 stops at all light level readings, and (2) the self-timer level retaining pin is broken off, nearly flush. Both self timers work if you use the free arm, but the two-hole screw-in pin to hold the lever on is broken off inside the body. Per the timer, with the broken off pin being so small, is there a way to fix this? Per the meter, since the ASA dial is on the front of the camera not atop, is the meter adjustment located behind the dial, or atop near the rewind crank? I would just take it apart and look but the advance crank pins seems frozen. I have yet to free them up. Same for the rewind crank cover disc holding the other side. I was informed the cameras were "tuned up" about 14 years ago and after seeing the broken timer pins (broken by someone else before it came to me) and seeing how much force might be needed to release the advance lever pin, I wonder if something unusual was used on the threads when the camera was back together years ago. Any thoughts on releasing the frozen pieces or the self timer arm lock pin? If the timer lever cannot be made to go back on, is there an ideal way to cover the socket or something to make it more attractive? Both cameras are near mint otherwise. |
Michael_linn
Tinkerer
Username: Michael_linn
Post Number: 26
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 04:28 pm: |
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Ricoh specified 1.32 volts +/- 0.05v for checking the exposure sensitivity adjustment. If you are using a 1.55v alkaline battery, that is the issue you are likely facing, particularly since both cameras seem to be in agreement. The suggested test is at LV 11, which would be ISO 100, f5.6 at 1/60. |
Mjtolan
Tinkerer
Username: Mjtolan
Post Number: 9
Registered: 04-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 11:49 pm: |
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I do have some older based, active, mercury 1.35 batteries I tested with; the off meter reading isn't due to the voltage - I don't think. These batteries test 1.19 under minor load, and 1.35 under no load. I suspect it is an adjustment issue,m but could be wrong. I still haven't made it inside the camera for fear of doing to the advance crank pin and Rewind dial lock washer what someone else did to the self-timer pin. |
Michael_linn
Tinkerer
Username: Michael_linn
Post Number: 27
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 11:08 pm: |
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To adjust the meter you will need to remove the top.
There should be some stuff in the archives on that. Once off, you are looking at two screws at the top of the lens mount near the wind side which hold a copper "fingers" set. The screws, when loosened, allow the set to slide back and forth, and that is the means of adjusting the meter, trial and error. It's a bit challenging as the light source for the testing will need to be controlled more carefully now that you have the top off and the cds cells are more exposed.
You have not mentioned what standard you used to determine that the TLS's were off in their exposure calibration. Cameras of that era were calibrated to the manufacturer's preference, not to a recognized standard.
Some just calibrated for the best results from Kodachrome which usually resulted in intentional underexposure. Different batches of cds cells had responses grading off toward red or blue.
At this point, ten year old mercury batteries aren't going to be what you will be using next year. I would recommend that you do the calibration, if necessary, using whatever battery type will be in the camera next year. |
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