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Mr_flibble
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Username: Mr_flibble

Post Number: 24
Registered: 10-2011

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Posted on Monday, November 28, 2011 - 02:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I've had this camera for some time. It was in pretty poor shape when I got it.

With a little work I got the shutter back on track. The back is now reasonably light tight.
And the film advance no longer grinds its teeth.

Example photo from the camera after the fixes:
http://www.flibweb.nl/flibweb/cpg143/albums/userpics/10001/roll02.jpg


But, when I fixed the film advance I must've messed up the timing somewhere because now I get frame overlaps. The lever seems to move freely for the first part of the advance stroke before I can feel it catch the gears of the mechanism.

Does someone have a few pointers on how to correct this problem? Thanks in advance (hurhurhur :-) )

Rick
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Mr_flibble
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Username: Mr_flibble

Post Number: 26
Registered: 10-2011

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Posted on Tuesday, November 29, 2011 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

After taking another look, I seem to have more or less managed to find the right timing for the gears. Will run another roll of film through it to confirm.....right after I've tested about 4 other cameras
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Br1078lum
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Username: Br1078lum

Post Number: 177
Registered: 11-2010

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Posted on Tuesday, November 29, 2011 - 07:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Just keep at it Rick, you'll figure it out somehow. Wish I knew what to do, but I try not to mess with Rollei products. I wouldn't want to make things worse.

PF
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Mareklew
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Username: Mareklew

Post Number: 260
Registered: 03-2010

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Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2011 - 04:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Rick,
most TLR (I have NOT taken a *flex apart) have the frame spacing done by a toothed wheel that rolls on the film backing paper as the film goes onto the takeup spool.
This means, that the "drive" parts (crank->takeup spool) don't influence frame spacing at all, this geartrain gets locked by the frame counting part (that serrated wheel and co) after advancing enough film, but otherwise it doesn't matter if it takes two or fifteen crank revolutions. The actual frame counter is the wheel that shows frame numbers (behind it there are two sliced discs that define the distance between frames).

Marek
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Mr_flibble
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Username: Mr_flibble

Post Number: 27
Registered: 10-2011

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Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2011 - 05:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks Marek,

But I think on the Rolleiflex Standard the length of the crank stroke is influenced by the frame counter mechanism itself. The stroke become shorter at certain numbers on the indicator the further you advance the counter. This happens even without film in the camera.

The system you describe might be for a later model flexes, I think my Rolleicord Ia also has a toothed wheel running over the backing paper at the take-up spool that locks the film advance.

Cheers,

Rick
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Mareklew
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Username: Mareklew

Post Number: 262
Registered: 03-2010

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Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2011 - 05:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Rick, in this case I'm of no help, I only had the later designs (Yashica and Rolleicord) with the toothed wheel taken apart. It must be different in your model, but I don't know how it's built.

Good luck!
Marek

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