Author |
Message |
Ludwigvan66
Tinkerer Username: Ludwigvan66
Post Number: 1 Registered: 02-2012
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2012 - 03:22 pm: |
|
I bought my Hi-Matic E in fine cosmetic condition about 10 years ago at a pawn shop for $10, but never could get it to work, so I shelved it. Got it out recently and did some research on the web as to how to adapt 1.4v zinc-air batteries to make it work. I soon discovered that it had a broken black wire under the bottom cover, which I repaired. Batteries in........and it works, sorta. Shot a roll of Kodak new Portra 160 (fantastic film BTW) and the shots, all 38 of them, came out perfect, so I know the exposure calculations must be correct. But, it still bothers me that the check battery light, green proper exposure light, and under exposure red light either don't work, or when they do it's quite dim, then quickly fades out. Today, I opened up the top cover to check the wiring there, everything seemed to look ok, so I put it back together. So, is there some kind of resistor or other something that can go bad to cause this? Any help would be appreciated. |
Waynemel
Tinkerer Username: Waynemel
Post Number: 146 Registered: 08-2009
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2012 - 03:45 pm: |
|
From my experience, the E is a real pig for batteries. They have to be fresh, and the contact must be very good. Otherwise, the lights are dim. The good news is that your camera seems to be working well, and it has a great lens. These cameras are prone to corrosion and even if the battery compartment looks clean, the guts can be rotten. I have a good working example of this camera, but it took alot of work and two other cameras to get it to that state. I've taken a personal vow to avoid working on these cameras again, in order to preserve my sanity. |
Ludwigvan66
Tinkerer Username: Ludwigvan66
Post Number: 2 Registered: 02-2012
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2012 - 03:59 pm: |
|
Since I posted this, I've read, that because Minolta used acid-core solder, that many connections can look fine, but not be, including possible corrosion within the wire itself. Currently I also have a malfunctioning Hi-Matic 9 I'm more concerned with using, so I may forget about the E for awhile. |
Kerne
Tinkerer Username: Kerne
Post Number: 18 Registered: 01-2011
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, February 18, 2012 - 01:41 pm: |
|
I have a Hi-Matic E as well, and they are very finicky. Had to resolder the battery terminals as well as remount them to the chassis (more than once). I've been much, much happier with my Hi-Matic 7s. It's quite a bit more robust and only needs one battery in a standard metal capped drop-in holder as opposed to the E's awkward sideways battery compartment and flimsy plastic door. See of you can find a good deal on a 7 or 9. Plus, having the option of a manual mode if the battery dies is comforting. |
Ludwigvan66
Tinkerer Username: Ludwigvan66
Post Number: 3 Registered: 02-2012
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, February 18, 2012 - 02:53 pm: |
|
Took a gamble on an 7s auction, crapped out, as its pretty banged up and the meter is dead, but the aperture and shutter seem to work fine. Just received my second 9 from eBay today, lens is a little tighter than my older one, shutter and aperture work well, but viewfinder is very foggy inside. The meter seems to work ok in this one, but even with a fresh battery, the needle doesn't seem to sit in the part of the little frosted square, but just above it. Might either open this one up and clean the viewfinder, or, decide to just have it CLA'd professionally so I can have at least one really good one for the next 20+ years. BTW, I put a 3v Lithium battery, 3vDL1/3N, in the E......battery light actually comes on and stays on, but even with the cap on, I never get a low light (red) in the viewfinder. Of course, I know using the 3v battery, I probably need to go down one stop on the ASA setting under normal light, and perhaps two in bright light to get accurate exposures. |
|