| Author |
Message |
    
Santaji
Tinkerer
Username: Santaji
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 11:18 am: | 
|
Hello,
I recently bought an old Yashica Electro 35 GTN on eBay, the camera came with a new battery, and I got new light seals installed from a camera repair shop.
I have shot two rolls of film with the camera and it seems to be working fine, but the viewfinder is extremely foggy so it can be a little hard to see the focusing patch sometimes.
I am thinking about removing the top plate and trying to clean it myself, but i have no experience with repairing old cameras, I am mostly worried about accidentally messing up the rangefinder mechanisms/alignment.
If anyone here has tried this please let me know if it's an easy task or too difficult for a beginner to attempt.
Also, what else should i check/replace while I have the top plate off, and will I need anything else besides a screwdriver, and an unfolded paper clip for removing the iso/asa dial and film advance lever?
I also have a question about the "pad of death" problem, fortunately my camera does not have this issue, but I was wondering how likely it could happen if the camera is used regularly? (at least once a month)
And what can I do to prevent it?
Besides the foggy viewfinder the only other issue I noticed with the camera is that there is a lot of dust inside the lens, looking at it through the front and also from the back/film chamber, but I'm not sure if it's worth trying to get to the inside of the lens to clean it, as I heard this is a difficult job. |
Mr_flibble
Tinkerer
Username: Mr_flibble
Post Number: 65
Registered: 10-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 03:10 pm: |
|
Concerning the POD, if I recall correctly about 50% of the electros have pads made out of a much harder material. Those won't degrade (certainly not as fast as the other type).
If you are going to take the top off to clean the RF, you'll see the pad as well. if it is made of a white/greyish material you've got the better one. |
Railcrew
Tinkerer
Username: Railcrew
Post Number: 15
Registered: 03-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 06:59 pm: |
|
This guy's site helped me. I believe the GTN is just a black version of the GSN(?) I replaced the little rotten foam light block next to the Over-Under arrow lights with a piece of black felt, as well as the dust seal under the rewind crank as mentioned in this article:
http://mattsclassiccameras.com/electro_inside/index.html |
Santaji
Tinkerer
Username: Santaji
Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 14, 2012 - 06:01 am: |
|
I have decided to try cleaning the viewfinder myself, after reading the instructions on mattsclassiccameras.com
I currently have a half finished roll of film in the camera, so I will be doing this after I've finished it. Meanwhile I want to make sure I've understood the process right:
1. So the first thing to do is to remove the screws on the sides of the top plate,
2. Then remove the film advance lever by inserting something in the two small holes and turning counter-clockwise, a paper clip will be ok for this right?
3. Remove the ISO/ASA dial the same way, after setting the dial to 100 for reference
4. Remove the film rewind knob
5. Lift off the top plate
6. Lift off the rangefinder glass over
7. Clean the glass, mattsclassiccameras.com says use Windex/Glassex but i think a piece of wet cotton will be enough?
8. I think i will avoid doing the yellow glass, don't want to risk losing the focusing patch!
9. I will need to glue the rangefinder glass cover back on right? I think normal superglue will be ok for this.
10. Replace the foam seal for the film advance lever with a bit of black felt with a hole punched in it.
11. Now i just have to put the top plate back on and screw it back into place, what about the film advance lever and iso dial? Will they just snap back into place?
Sorry for the really basic questions, but I'm new to classic cameras so I have no experience with doing anything like this! |
Dirbel
Tinkerer
Username: Dirbel
Post Number: 68
Registered: 04-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 14, 2012 - 11:40 am: |
|
sounds ok, except for the superglue. This type of glue gasses out and will fog the glas.
Dirk |
Santaji
Tinkerer
Username: Santaji
Post Number: 4
Registered: 05-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 14, 2012 - 12:09 pm: |
|
What kind of glue will be appropriate for this? |
Dirbel
Tinkerer
Username: Dirbel
Post Number: 69
Registered: 04-2008
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 14, 2012 - 02:25 pm: |
|
I think I used household glue (UHU is a popular brand here). Contact cement will work as well of course.
Dirk |
Nparsons13
Tinkerer
Username: Nparsons13
Post Number: 22
Registered: 09-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, May 14, 2012 - 04:03 pm: |
|
I agree that you probably should use something like Windex/Glassex--a mild ammonia solution--for cleaning. Water alone won't cut any oily or tarry material that might be deposited on the glass, such as tobacco smoke residue or fingerprints.
I also agree that you shouldn't use superglue. Another glue that has worked for me through four Electro 35s is Beacon 527 Multi Use.
When putting the film advance lever and ISO dial back on, simply reverse the order of the parts and washers as they came off, then use your paper clip or tweezers to screw everything down clockwise. While turning the little screw over the ISO dial, use a pin or needle to hold the dial at 100 ISO (if that's where it was before you took it off).
Noel |
Railcrew
Tinkerer
Username: Railcrew
Post Number: 20
Registered: 03-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, May 16, 2012 - 01:06 pm: |
|
use windex, it evaporates and won't streak (may need to do it twice) I just set my ASA to 1000 (all the way) I use my wifes "Tacky Glue" for lots of repairs. don't worry about closing the film door, it is easily opened by screwing the film rewind knob back on, easier to handle I think. |
Sciroccs
Tinkerer
Username: Sciroccs
Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 03:37 pm: |
|
I use Pliobond....works very well for replacing the camera leather/vinyl as well. Watch out for the fumes though. Got my supply from Micro-tools.com |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 314
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 07:23 pm: |
|
Weldbond works good, too.
PF |
