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Santaji
Tinkerer
Username: Santaji
Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, October 19, 2012 - 11:43 am: | 
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I just noticed a strange problem with my Electro 35 GTN.
When taking pictures in low light and the slow light comes on, the shutter only stays open while the shutter button is pressed. I think if i press and hold the shutter button it stays open for the proper shutter speed, but isn't it supposed to fire at the slow speed after just pressing and releasing the shutter button? The camera works fine when the slow light does not come on. What could be causing this issue and is it difficult to repair? |
Thepurush
Tinkerer
Username: Thepurush
Post Number: 61
Registered: 01-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 20, 2012 - 01:53 am: |
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Simple. The slide switch below shuuter release isnt getting locked. When you press shutter release this switch and just before the shuter is released it gets locked and it remains locked till you rewind to next frame.
Actually this is required because: the slide swtch goes thru 3 stages as you slowly press release button. First it will connect red lamp to see if light is too bright, then 2nd it connects yellow lamp to see if it is too dark, finally in 3rd it connects shuter elecromagnet to suply and release sutter inside lense.
Under bright light conditions the shutter fires completely even before you take off your finger from release button.In slow speeds in your case the slide switch isn't getting locked so the slide swith retuns as soon as you relese shuter button cutting off the supply to magnet , which inturn terminates exposure.
Open the bottom cover and you can see the slide switch not getting locked when press shuuter button. This is a simple adjustment of the screw at the end of slide switch.
You will see the slot in the screw when you open the bottom cover. Slightly loosen this screw noting the original position. And see if the slide switch now locks as it should. Excessive loosening will make it lock even before you press release all the way. The rule is as you slowly press shuter button down make sure that if the shutter clicks then the slide swtich shoud get latched. Ideally the locking shd take place an instant before the shutter is relesed inside the lense, but not later
This shd help you solve yr problem. In case you need a photo graph of this portion of assembly please do ask. |
Thepurush
Tinkerer
Username: Thepurush
Post Number: 62
Registered: 01-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, October 20, 2012 - 03:13 am: |
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Here is the picture you will need:
And here sopme text from manual:
But before making any adjustment makse sure nothing is obstructing the movement of latching lever. |
Santaji
Tinkerer
Username: Santaji
Post Number: 7
Registered: 05-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, November 27, 2012 - 10:43 am: |
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I finally got around to trying to do this yesterday, but i couldn't get the bottom plate open as none of the screwdrivers i had fit properly. I will be getting the correct screwdriver and trying this again soon.
One more question: I just noticed that i can no longer hear the "thump" when pulling the advance lever. Could this also be because of the shutter release rods needing adjustment or is it the POD? |
Thepurush
Tinkerer
Username: Thepurush
Post Number: 67
Registered: 01-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 08:44 am: |
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Yes. you will not heaar the thump because shutter release rod is is moving up as you release th e shuuter button.
In normal case the shuuter release buton stays locked down once the shuuter is actuated. When you rotate advane lever, it gets released and you hear the tummp because it hits DOP. To omany people have talked too much about DOP as if that is a magical point that sets right every thing. It is not so. Ignore that for a moment. |
Santaji
Tinkerer
Username: Santaji
Post Number: 11
Registered: 05-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2012 - 12:43 pm: |
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Any tips for getting the bottom plate off? I tried using a small precision screwdriver but the screws seem to be stuck. |
John_s
Tinkerer
Username: John_s
Post Number: 108
Registered: 07-2009
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2012 - 05:06 pm: |
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The screwdriver must be an excellent fit.
Use some sort of easing oil, WD40 or similar, allowing it to sink in.
Try engaging the screwdriver in the screw head, then tap the end of the screwdriver with a small hammer, pair of pliers or whatever. Turn the screwdriver with the pliers. |
Santaji
Tinkerer
Username: Santaji
Post Number: 13
Registered: 05-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 26, 2012 - 09:35 am: |
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Finally managed to get the screws off and adjusted the release rod. Seems to be working fine now, i can hear the thump sound again when pulling the advance lever. |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 441
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, December 26, 2012 - 07:19 pm: |
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As a word of caution, never ever use WD-40 or any other type of penetrating oil around or on a camera. Period.
PF |
Santaji
Tinkerer
Username: Santaji
Post Number: 15
Registered: 05-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 28, 2012 - 09:49 am: |
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I put in new batteries and was about to load some film, but i'm still not sure if the slow speeds are functioning correctly. My original problem with the shutter not staying open on slow speeds is gone, but now i think that the shutter is staying open way too long.
For example, if i can shoot at f2.8 without the slow or over light coming on, and i stop down to f4.0 and the slow light comes on for that aperture, should't the shutter speed be 1/30th? The shutter seems to stay open at-least 5 - 10 seconds or more. |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 443
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 28, 2012 - 06:18 pm: |
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Have you tried using a hand-held meter to gauge the scene for what the Yashica might be trying to do? You don't say what ISO setting you have on the camera, or what type of light you are metering (Daylight? Coudy, bright, hazy? Incandescent? 40watt or 100watt bulb?). And you have to remember, the Yashica uses a stepless speed shutter, so on one aperture setting you might have 1/23, and on the next it may be 1/9. Without knowing what all the external parameters are, one could not say what you camera should be doing at any particular aperture setting.
Just adjusting your rods until you here a thunk is not a proper way to do that operation. I'll look up the link I have to a site that explains how to do it.
PF |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 444
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, December 28, 2012 - 06:25 pm: |
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Here is the link, Santaji. It gives the complete information missing from Thepurush's post. http://www.monopix.co.uk/yashicarods.shtml
PF |
Santaji
Tinkerer
Username: Santaji
Post Number: 16
Registered: 05-2012
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 04:59 am: |
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I used my digital SLR as a light meter, the Yashica definitely seems to be having a problem with the shutter staying open too long on "slow" exposures, for example in a well lit room the slow light comes on at around f11, the shutter stays open sometimes for as long as a minute! the DSLR needed only a few seconds in the same light and same ISO setting. |
