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Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 613
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2013 - 02:48 pm: | 
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Here's the set-up. Got this camera with it all jammed up, and figured it's just a matter of putting new batteries in, and manipulating the bottom levers until it springs back into place.
Hah! First off, the mirror was only halfway (up or down, take your pick). And the shutter curtains were in the center of the frame (not open, just sitting there overlapped). New batteries (2 x 357) got me the lights in the mirror, and the BC light comes on. Forgot to check the Self Timer, but figured it wouldn't trip anyway with the shutter in mid-stroke.
I finally got the mirror to drop fully by pushing it's lever in the bottom of the camera until it latched. But in order to get to that point, I had to remove the linkage from the winder to the center of the camera (that long, forked one).
It had jumped of from the pin it normally rides on, and the tines of the fork had been compressed together, almost touching. Got that straightened out, but I can't get the winder to move through it's complete range of motion (130 degrees). Something is stopping it with about 20 degrees left to move.
I've moved all the levers I can get to, got the electronic shutter release hooked up so I don't have to rely on the button on top, and the mirror will still go halfway when I trip it's lever. I can get it to go full closed, so it's not jammed.
So, lacking any other ideas at the time, I pulled the top off (watch out for that ball bearing detent on the Master Switch). I really can't see a mechanical reason from there that would be hanging the shutter, as the release button shaft reaches pretty far down inside the camera. All the switches look clean, no corrosion evident anywhere, or even dust for that matter.
So, what could be keeping the winder from making it's full motion, and also have the shutter curtains hung halfway? BTW, all caps are Tantalum Blue.
PF |
Michael_linn
Tinkerer
Username: Michael_linn
Post Number: 89
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, July 18, 2013 - 10:36 pm: |
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Sounds like a gear problem in the wind over-travel adjustment. The blue or gray gear at the bottom of the camera at the wind lever end sometimes slips out of time and needs to be adjusted.
With the fork jumped and bent, the camera has likely been forced while jammed and the plastic gears have jumped a few cogs or been stripped. |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 615
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, July 19, 2013 - 01:44 pm: |
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So, Michael, I'm looking at tearing down the winding gears to get the curtains to finish their travel? I haven't seen any damage to the gears that are visible, and was just hoping it was a matter of moving the right lever to get the curtains to move.
A photo of the bottom arrangements after repairing the forked lever.
http://flic.kr/p/fcDKZR
And the complete set so far.
http://flic.kr/s/aHsjGWAV2H
Oh, and it's very easy to lose screws and springs on this camera. I'm up to one screw, and one detent spring so far. Not conforming to my usual practice of only tearing down a camera on the work bench is what got me in trouble.
PF |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 617
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, July 19, 2013 - 07:45 pm: |
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Added five more photos to the set. It's not looking good. The gear train comes to a complete halt with the shutter curtains right in the center of the frame. I think Michael has it right, plus there is also another complication. The focusing screen is not seated properly in it's cradle.
I give up. It's not worth the effort on a $15 camera. At least the lens is in good shape, and I've got plenty of Minolta's to use it on.
PF |
Michael_linn
Tinkerer
Username: Michael_linn
Post Number: 90
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, July 19, 2013 - 09:29 pm: |
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You do not have to tear down the winding gears.
https://kyp.hauslendale.com/classics/forum/messages/2/21805.html
It's just a question of resetting the gear train.
I have only done fifty or sixty of these XG's according to my notes but my notes are just not up to Rick Oleson's notes so there is a possibility that there is an exception in my experience.
The focusing screen is another issue entirely and if you get the gears figured out and need help on the screen, just let me know.
Of course you are right about the value of the camera. Fifteen dollars would be the value when in perfect working condition. Sad to say that about film cameras which were worth more than $100 in their day. |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 618
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 07:56 am: |
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As I'm looking at the gears, Michael, I see what looks like an adjustment screw just to the right of what I would call the bull gear (the one under the winder shaft cam). If I loosen that, will it swing the transfer gear out of the way so I can run the rest of the gear-train until it is in sync?
And is this where the timing marks come into play?
PF |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 619
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 10:58 am: |
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What I did, Michael, was to loosen that screw on the transfer gear platform.
Swung the transfer gear away from the shutter gear. http://flic.kr/p/fd7nui
Aligned the hole in the shutter gear with the hole in the body casting. http://flic.kr/p/fd7nZx
Tidied everything back up, and gave the winding lever a crank.
The shutter now moves across the frame gate, but I'm not sure it is far enough, as the shutter still will not fire, and the winding lever actually did that gear skipping thing in the last few degrees of travel. But it did go the full 130 degrees.
Is there another mark on the shutter gear showing it in the correct position when the shutter is charged?
And just to be curious, which capacitor controls the shutter release?
PF |
Michael_linn
Tinkerer
Username: Michael_linn
Post Number: 92
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 01:39 pm: |
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The timing is by trial and error a gear tooth at a time.
Turn the large gear clockwise until you get some resistance (the shutter is at the beginning of the wind cycle). Back off one or two teeth, reengage the pinion gear, and see where you are.
Don't force your way past increased resistance you might feel when winding the shutter fully. Back off a tooth or two and try again.
If you are still getting slippage, something is stripped somewhere. |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 621
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 02:30 pm: |
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Yeah, I didn't mean to do that, it just went. My big hope is that this doesn't come down to being a bad capacitor. The ones that Micro-Tools supplied are too big.
PF |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 622
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 05:39 pm: |
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I finally broke down and looked up a repair manual, which also enlightened me in knowing mine is an XG-1n. Main differences look to be in the topside design. Maybe now I'll be able to properly identify the parts by name.
Anyway, here is the link to the manual
http://www.minolta.suaudeau.eu/reparation/manuels/XG1%20XG1n%20XG-AService%20Man ual.pdf
It covers the XG-A also.
And while I'm here, just one more question, Michael. There is a contact (the X Contact?) that sits in the center of the back wall of the camera body, just above the bottom cover. I'm not sure if it has been displaced to the wrong side of a plastic pad that is on the end of another lever that obviously is supposed to push it one way or the other. Photo at the link http://flic.kr/p/fdkjW4
PF |
Michael_linn
Tinkerer
Username: Michael_linn
Post Number: 93
Registered: 04-2011
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, July 20, 2013 - 10:02 pm: |
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Well, now that you know that you have an XG-1n, you know that you have the crap fifteen cent capacitors.
If you have ever wondered why Minolta is no longer in the camera business, or why Soyo is no longer in the PC motherboard business, it is these fifteen cent aluminum can capacitors.
They were hoped to have a five year service life but some didn't make it. None have made it in the long term.
If you really want a Minolta SLR which you can reliably repair and use, look for an XD.
They can still be repaired and they are far better than an X or XG Minolta.
Rant off.
Good Luck! |
Br1078lum
Tinkerer
Username: Br1078lum
Post Number: 623
Registered: 11-2010
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 09:23 am: |
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Most of the caps I see are the tantalum blues, Michael. There is one can up under the PC board below the Main Switch.
That manual is mostly just assembly drawings, with the circuits and PC boards layout. It helps to have the right name for parts, but it doesn't explain any of the actions, or what sequence things need to be done in.
I'm really quite done with messing with it, because I still can't figure how to get the shutter to release so I can properly adjust the gears. It still feels like there is something blocking the final few degrees of motion in the winder lever. Oh well, it was an exercise in learning a bit about electronically controlled SLR's. It's a lovely designed body, and feels good in the hands, but I'm glad it didn't cost me much. At least the lens is good (2/50), and had a Hoya UV filter on it., so not all is lost.
I'll keep a look out for an XD.
PF |
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