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Nparsons13
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Username: Nparsons13

Post Number: 36
Registered: 09-2010

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Posted on Wednesday, August 21, 2013 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

This isn't the usual Hi-matic 7s shutter problem (sticky blades). The shutter appears to be firing at the set speeds, and both shutter and aperture blades are clean and working correctly in both manual and automatic. But to get the camera to fire at all, I have to push the release button clear to the bottom--and sometimes I have to pump it once before it will fire the shutter.

I took the top plate off to clear the rangefinder glass, and I took the bottom plate off to see if I could find an adjustment for the release throw, as in the Yashica Electro 35. When the bottom plate came off, out fell a small brass tab, about 3 x 3 x 0.7mm. Could that perhaps be a spacer for the shutter release button? If so, where should it be replaced?

Any ideas for adjusting the shutter release button throw on this camera would be greatly appreciated.
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Neuberger
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Username: Neuberger

Post Number: 93
Registered: 01-2010

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Posted on Thursday, August 22, 2013 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

A photo of the "tab" would certainly make things easier, I am still wondedring about the 0.7mm ?!

Sometimes smaller parts rattling around in the body somehow find their way from the top to the bottom, so when you take off the bottom plate you tend to believe they belong somewhere there.
The part I am thinking of looks like a small cylindrical pin with a collar and usually sits inside the release "button" and, if installed (from below), is visible inside the release knob just at the end of the cable release thread. If this pin falls out unnoticed during disassembly its missing produces the effect you describe. But usually this part is in chrome finish and almost 20mm long, in some, not all, cameras it carries a brass washer of the size you mention to bridge the gap between its collar end and the release knob touching the end of the release shaft inside the camera body.
In the older Hi-Matics the release mechanism is linked with the relatively complex Auto mode system: both the speed ring and the aperture ring can be set to "A" individually or in combination.
They are then linked by a moveable lever with the needle-trap meter and the diaphragm.
The old Hi-Matics usually produce some noise when you shake them. Not considering this, is there anything really rattling inside?
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Nparsons13
Tinkerer
Username: Nparsons13

Post Number: 37
Registered: 09-2010

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Posted on Thursday, August 22, 2013 - 01:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Thanks, Neuberger. I hesitated to use bandwidth with a macro of a plain, thin brass rectangle, but if you think it's needed, I can do it.

The chrome pin fell out when I took the top cover off, but I replaced it in position. I didn't see a washer to fit the pin, but if there was one and it was lost, it shouldn't be hard to replace from my parts box. I'll try that.

No rattling noise; I think anything loose (like the brass rectangle) has already dropped out.
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Nparsons13
Tinkerer
Username: Nparsons13

Post Number: 39
Registered: 09-2010

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Posted on Thursday, August 22, 2013 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Now I see that the problem is more than just the distance the shutter button must be pressed. The problem is getting worse, and it is now taking three or four or more presses of the shutter release to get the shutter to fire. Something in the shutter linkage is not catching every time. Looks like this camera will join a corroded Chinon in a pair of bookends.
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Neuberger
Tinkerer
Username: Neuberger

Post Number: 94
Registered: 01-2010

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Posted on Friday, August 23, 2013 - 09:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Sometimes it is like that. I also have one of the seven or so models 7, 7s, 9 I own, that is definitely beyond repair. Minolta used differently coated sets of blades in the shutter and the aperture, the ones in the FUBAR specimen are scratched producing too much friction. So the camera was used as a source for parts: meter, RF window glass, battery box etc. were still in good shape and helped me to complete and revive the others.
In case you still think the camera is worth a try of digging deeper, study this http://www.oocities.org/zzhuy/hiMatic9/hiMatic9.html and study Nickon51's excellent posts with reference to the Hi-Matics via "Search" in the archives.

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