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chris burck
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 20, 2004 - 11:27 pm: | 
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hey, all, i was so encouraged by my success with those faulty compur and compound shutters that i decided to plunge right into the deep end.
i have a petri racer in super clean condition, but the diaphragm and shutter are both basket cases. i'd hoped i could open it up from the back, but no dice. i've opened up the lens one layer at a time, until all that's left is the shutter inside of a casing, with the aperture and shuter blades sandwiched in between.
the shutter is mounted on a plate inside of the casing, and as far as i can tell, i'm going to have to pull it out in order to try to unscramble the diaphragm and shutter blades. is there any danger of pieces or springs flying out when i pull the shutter? (i've looked carefully and it doesn't look as though any pieces are held in by the walls of the casing, but i figure you never know. . .)
also, are there any links showing how to reset diaphragm and shutter blades? preferably with lots of pics and very thorough, detailed explanatory text?
thanks in advance.
-chris |
chris burck
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, February 20, 2004 - 11:41 pm: |
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i forgot to mention that the shutter cocking lever projects out through an opening in the back of the casing, overlapping it in such a way that in order to remove the shutter/mounting plate i'm going to have to remove the lever.
the lever is attached with a kind of mini cotter-pin which seems as though it will require a fair amount of force to remove. i've been trying to think of a tool, either already existing or improvised, that would work. any ideas?
-chris |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, February 21, 2004 - 11:09 am: |
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I once disassembled the shutter of a Racer with f/1.8 lens (which I dropped on the floor soon after finishing this repair). I also have the Racer with f/2.8 lens but I did not have to disassemble the shutter.
On the shutter of the f/1.8 lens the shutter cocking lever is attached to the cocking shaft with a screw but I know there are other methods. However, I don't know the f/2.8 shutter in detail.
There is no risk of separating it from the mounting plate. On the f/1.8 lens shutter you don't even have to cut the wires of the light meter cell since there are two contacts between the lens base and the lens barrel. On the shutter I disassembled the aperture assembly could be removed after removal of some screws on the outer edge of the shutter. |
chris buck
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2004 - 12:34 am: |
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lol, too late. i've since forged ahead.
i didn't realize there was a f/2.8 version of the racer (guess i should've, though). i've got the 1.8, and the cocking lever is connected to the shaft with a sort of nut/cotter pin combination. fortunately, as i don't have any tools that would be effective, turns out disconnecting the lever from the shaft wasn't necessary. i pretty much stumbled upon that discovery.
in the end i pulled the metering wires from their internal contacts. it just got too cumbersome working with all the pieces still connected to each other. hopefully as i gain more experience i won't have to take such measures.
i'll tell ya, i learned a lot doing this. in the course of getting the shutter out, the blades came unseated, but i was able to get them back without too much difficulty (six blades, btw; i left one out with no apparent ill-effect).
the diaphragm was all out of whack and chewed up in such a way that, i don't understand how it could have gotten that way. one of the blades was simply torn and mangles into 3 or more pieces. the remaining blades, with the exception of one or two of them, were all creased/crinkled at one corner or another. how could it get like this? any ideas on how to make them flat again?
anyway, i got them seated back in their grooves/slots, byt it's not working correctly or smoothly. don't know hether this is due to the missing blade, or the damage done to them. if they can't be made flat again, can i get replacement iris blades somewhere? |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2004 - 06:45 am: |
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I don't know what made your aperture blades messed up. Sometimes the guide pins break off but this does not seem to be the case. The only way to get replacement blades is from a camera with the same shutter. I don't think I kept the aperture assembly from my defunct Racer 1.8, but I will have a look. BTW the 1.8 version seems to be pretty rare, I have seen very few on ebay. It's a real shame I broke mine after repairing it 8-(( |
chris burck
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, February 22, 2004 - 12:49 pm: |
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hmm, i feared as much.
i saw very few of them as well when i was looking for a camera of that genre. as i recall i was rather lucky. there weren't a lot of bidders and i got it fairly cheap.
though disappointed to find it in the condition that it was when it arrived, i figured that, eventually, it'd make a good project.
guess i'll have to be on the lookout for a parts camera. . . . |
Haig Hovaness
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Friday, March 05, 2004 - 09:09 pm: |
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You seem to be well along in the repair, but I though I would pass along an observation on the Racer. The one I have has a remarkably accurate leaf shutter. Evidently Petri figured out how to build a near-perfect leaf shutter just as the inexpensive rangefinder became obsolete. Good luck with the repairs. |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 03:09 am: |
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I do not have any experience (yet) with other Petri shutters (my Racer 2.8 is still sitting on the shelf), but I once tested a Petri Color35 shutter to check whether I had reassembled the escapement hairsprings correctly. It turned out that it was so accurate it could be used to calibrate a shutter tester. There is some play in the linkage between the shutter dial and the shutter cam so 1/30 is correct only when setting it from the correct direction but I can live with that.
BTW does anyone know how to remove the dials on the top plate of the Petri Color35? It seems the meter range on mine is somewhat limited and I would like to check whether there is something wrong. |
Michael Linn
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 10:22 am: |
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For Winfried:
The speed and f-stop dials stay with the top. To remove the top, focus the lens out towards infinity first if you want to operate the shutter with the top off. Unscrew the pin-faced screw holding the focusing wheel and remove it. Wedge the rewind crank and unscrew it. Remove the nut underneath. Remove the screw under the strap lug and lift off the top. The battery check button will be loose. |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 03:13 pm: |
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Thanks, this is a great help. I was always wondering about the f- and speed dial - no screws and nuts visible. I will try your method. |
rcxboy
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 03:00 am: |
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I have a petri racer 2.8, and want to completely clean the shutter and lens.
I have tried to dissassemble it, and got the top and bottom casing off. I havent managed to remove the lens parts, or anything else. I want to get to the shutter and its mechanism, have looked all over the camera, but cant find and have resorted to the internet. can anyone help, some simple instructions would be nice. |
