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chris burck
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 01:31 pm: | 
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anyone have any experience with them? what kind of things do i want to look for if it's not firing? |
David Ritchie
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 03:25 pm: |
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Chris, I had to clean an 800 shutter with several washes of Ronsonol before it operated ok. I removed it from the camera and then removed the lens to better flush the shutter from my Kodak Tourist. Not too difficult. As best I remember I saw several little black specs in the Ronsonol after the first flushes. Let it dry thoroughly, test and flush again until ok. You may need a full can of Ronsonol. Good luck. |
David Nebenzahl
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 09:54 pm: |
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By the way, sorry if I'm raining on anyone's parade, but the method just described (otherwise known as the "dunk it in lighter fluid and hope for the best" method) is a chancy way at best to try to fix shutters.
Lighter fluid is indeed a good solvent to use, but there are two problems with this method:
1. In order to really flush all the gunk and dirt out of a shutter, it really needs to be disassembled, right down to the shutter blades. Otherwise, what you're doing is relocating at least some of the gunk and dirt to places where they can really foul things up, like the shutter blade pivots or the blades themselves.
2. Contrary to some popular mythology, shutters do need some lubrication to operate properly: specifically, light oil on the bearings of any clockwork. If you use lighter fluid to remove this lubricant without replacing it, you may actually make the shutter operate worse than before.
If you're not capable of tearing the shutter down (or just don't want to), the soak-n-go method can sometimes work. Just be aware of the possibility of ending up with a badly-running shutter, which will then require disassembling. |
chris burck
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 12:46 am: |
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the gummed lubricant issue, while i'm sure the 800 is not immune to it, is a pretty universal problem. i was hoping someone might have info about the 800 in particular. i have read that it has a peculiar mechanism (double-tipped blades) in order to obtain the 1/800th fastest speed, which is at the root of why these shutters are less reliable than most.
is anyone familiar with this aspect of the 800? are the related mechanical problems especially problematic to fix? |
Gomi
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 10:02 am: |
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I have the Synchro Rapid 800 version. It's more complicated because it has a second set of shutter blades, behind the first, which stay closed while the main shutter blades are reset. |
Brian Kuehn
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, June 17, 2004 - 06:34 pm: |
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This shutter is a $#%&* pain. I have several of them. I purchased an original kodak repair publication for the synchro-rapid 800 shutter and I've completely disassembled/reassembled 3 of them. Even when properly taken apart, cleaned, and put back together, they may not work right. This shutter is NOTORIOUS for unreliability. Kodak wanted to be king of the hill with the TOP shutter speed of any leaf shutter. The Compurs and Prontors ONLY go to 1/500th. The 1/800th never was really that fast on the day the shutter left the factory. In general, this is a shutter to stay away from if you intend to use it. I will probably try to substitute a supermatic (which is a wonderful, durable, reliable kodak shutter) on one of my Tourists. I don't know that this will work, but the sizes look like they might. Brian Kuehn [email protected] |
23fan
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, December 26, 2004 - 02:11 pm: |
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Hello, I am looking for a replacement for the Kodak Synchro-Rapid 800 shutter. Has anyone had any luck in finding an equivalent shutter which can accept the lens cells from the 800? Thank you. |
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