| Author |
Message |
    
Sean OKeefe
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 03:42 pm: | 
|
Hi all,
Well I got into the action touch without hitch, just undo the screws that look like body screws inside the back and the front and main camera separate.
My problem is that the corrosion that occured in the battery compartment was so extensive that it literally ate through the plastic at the top of the battery compartment. I have a 15mm hole where a 5 mm hole once was.
The battery terminal (neg) post is OK (stainless), so it appears that if I redo entirely the 2 wires from the negative terminal (one to switch circut board on top, one heads into the innards) I should get a working camera (or at least be closer than I am now).
Problem is that the battery ate some of the body plastic and I need to remake it. What would be best for this? It will have to be strong enough to hold the pressure of a battery but I can access enough at the top so I can even use fiberglass reinforcement from the inside if need be. I debrided the oxidized plastic and what is left appears sound.
Epoxy? Auto body fiberglass? What would work best for me and hold to the plastic? I can use tape to limit the material and redrill the hole by the batery post afterwards. Likely, I will also need to glue in the post of get a small screw that will go into the remade "plasic".
Thanks
Sean OKeefe |
Henry
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 04:22 pm: |
|
The two-part liquid plastic epoxy-like components I got from Micro-Tools has worked great for me. The labels are gone but probably Micro-tools still sells the stuff. I also file off plastic shavings from a modern P&S to use as reinforcing filler.
It has worked to seal body cracks and amazingly enough it worked well in the re-manufacture of Canolite battery compartment hinges. Pretty good stuff.
Henry |
Sean OKeefe
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 05:36 pm: |
|
Henry,
Thanks, "guaranteed to glue plastic" .... exactly what I want. Shavings are a good idea, I was thinking autobody fiberglass which may or may not not "mix" well with the glue chemistry. I have a dead L35 that will be happy to donate to his cousin.
Sean |
Charles Fallis
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 13, 2004 - 09:45 pm: |
|
Sounds like a job for epoxy putty. You can mold it to shape, it sticks to almost anything, sets up an just a few minutes, and it is almost as hard as metal. Nearly every hardware store sells it. |
Peter Wallage
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 14, 2004 - 04:50 pm: |
|
My grandson modifies a lot of fantasy 'Warhammer' figures, some in white metal and some in plastic. He adds bits and pieces using a two-part epoxy putty he gets from model shops. There two brands popular in the UK, Milliput and Green Stuff. It sticks well, sets really hard and you can drill it, file it or whatever. It also takes model enamel paints well. Model shops in other countries may have them, or something similar. I scrounged some from him to fill a couple of dings in a metal camera top plate before repainting. I'm not sure if it would stick just as well to the type of plastic used for camera bodies, but it mighht be worth a try. |
Sean OKeefe
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 08:15 am: |
|
I bought the plastic adhesive and epoxy putty both but I only tried the putty.
I was nervous when I read that epoxy potty didn't stick to certain plastics, but as I needed a bit on either side of the hole, I decided that it should stick to itself and by pressing it together, I should be able to plug the hole and make room for the second battery terminal. Worked like a charm.
I need to go at the cured putty with a dremel tool to make a hole for the terminal, and find a screw that will be OK. Then it will be time to put it together again and test. I think this is a job for Saturday morning. Thanks for the advice. I'll make a final post in this thread when it is all together.
Sean |
