| Author |
Message |
    
Howard
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 15, 2004 - 05:50 am: | 
|
Hi Folks. I went to the Melbourne (Australia) Camera Fair on Sunday and picked up a very nice Konica Auto S. The self timer was cocked so I injected a bit of lighter fluid into the gap and the timer released and the shutter fired and I was able to fire it a couple more times but now the lighter fluid has got on the shutter blades and it has seized up. The aperture moves a bit but needs cleaning too. To cut a long story short I have tried to unscrew the nameplate with a rubber tool but it is very tight and I can't budge it. If I go in through the back what are the traps. Winfried mentioned in an earlier thread that the outer retaining ring releases the lens assembly but what wiring is involved. I would prefer to be able to undo the front but I dont want to press too hard and damage the helicoid. I was considering drilling 2 small holes in the name plate 180 degrees apart and using dividers but the camera is vitually mint and I don't want to spoil it. It has a built in lens hood which slides foward as it should but I can't see how to remove it. Any suggestions would be welcome. |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 - 12:01 am: |
|
There are no traps when entering the lens barrel from behind, except that one of the lens elements is held in place by a springy ring only. There are no wires inside the lens barrel except for the sync wire since the meter cell is outside the lens barrel. |
Mick
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 - 08:31 am: |
|
Have a look at my website
http://feuerbacher.net/photo/repair/KonicaAutoS2/KonicaAutoS2.html
where I have posted a report on the repair of the Auto S2. Maybe it helps.
Mick |
Howard
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Wednesday, March 17, 2004 - 05:11 am: |
|
Thanks Mick & Winfried for the help. I have seen the article on your site Mick and it should be very helpful once I get this camera open. I am going to make a better rubber friction tool and try the lens nameplate and front lens elements again at the weekend. I would feel much more confident if I can tackle that way. |
Howard
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 20, 2004 - 12:15 am: |
|
Hi all. Well I made a better friction tool and managed to remove the front lens cell assembly. I now have the shutter working properly, but the aperture, even when wet with Ronsonal won't seem to open below about 2.8, even with some light assistance, which is well off the correct 1.9. I have read somewhere that there can be a problem with the aperture return spring being weak. Do they lose tension or is it simply the case that they are unable to operate properly if the aperture is dirty? |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Saturday, March 20, 2004 - 03:04 am: |
|
I once tried to give more tension to the return spring... be warned! This spring has to match with other springs in the AE mechanism. It may happen that the aperture will open properly now but maybe it will not close to certain settings.
Although this is not very easy (there are some cam disks tangling around the lens collar) I would recommend to separate the lens from the body and remove the aperture module to clean it thoroughly. |
Howard
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2004 - 06:14 am: |
|
Hi Winfried. I have discovered that this camera has be tinkered with before. Bent pin in the shutter mechanism, screw slots defaced etc. Anyhow the shutter is working but the aperture is still a problem, I thought I'd take your advice and remove the lens assembly. Just how difficult are the cam disks you mention. I must admit that after removing the top I found it fairly daunting. A lot of sliding and moving bits & pieces. I was able to fix the film counter alright but everything else looks fairly complex. I have discovered another problem as well, althought the meter works in both ranges, and the display seems to move all the right indicators, the meter is reading about 5 of 6 or more stops low eg. 100 ASA setting, sunny day, f2.8 @ 1/8,
could this be something to do with the cam disks or should the meter read correctly quite apart from anything else. I tried a second battery in case that was the problem but no joy.
These cameras are very nicely made but do seem to have their problems. |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Monday, March 22, 2004 - 04:49 am: |
|
The cam disks I was referring to are the disks providing the link between the advance mechanism and the shutter cocking shaft. There is another one providing coupling of the shutter release mechanism. It is difficult to put them back into place during reassembly but it is possible.
Concerning the meter: on the Auto-S, the meter base is turned mechanically when you change the speed or ASA setting (there is a very nifty transfer mechanism under the viewfinder assembly, using two disks, a worm gear and a pulley). There is a pin protruding backwards from the lens barrel providing the coupling to a socket in the body. The pin makes 1/2 turn per each speed or ASA stop. You can roughly adjust the meter by turning the socket. Probably this coupling has lost its original position during the first disassembly (see the thread "strange findings in a Konica Auto-S2 or: Never buy a 'repaired' camera). I think there is nothing worse that could happen to a camera than inadequate repair attempts.
I agree that the Auto-S is fairly complex - I found disassembly of the S2 much easier. Comparing them to german cameras of that era, it will be very clear which country manufactured more advanced cameras in 1963. |
Howard
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 23, 2004 - 04:37 am: |
|
Hi Winfried. Well thanks to your description the light meter is now giving correct readings. What a bizarre system. I hadn't made the connection between the shaft with the little toothed wheel and the meter display but it all makes sense now. I am still holding off removing the lens mounting plate because I now have the camera working properly about 70% of the time, but I think that I'm only putting off the inevitable. If only I could get to the the back of the aperture blades from the front. Anyhow thanks very much for your help and knowledge. I really appreciate it. |
Winfried
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 23, 2004 - 11:35 am: |
|
On most shutters the aperture module is located behind the shutter blades, and can be separated fromt the shutter more or less easily.
Yes, the Konica Auto-S has a strange design - but their linkage between the speed/ASA dial and the lightmeter is much better designed than on the flimsy Taron Auto-EE which seems to be a (not so very good) imitation of the Auto-S. Adjusting the meter on the Taron is a real pain. |
Howard
Rating: N/A
Votes: 0 (Vote!) | | Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2004 - 06:31 am: |
|
Hi Winfried. Just a follow up to let you know the end result. I finally peeled back the leatherette and removed the lens plate. The aperture worked perfectly so I fiddled around a bit and put it all back together again. It's now working just fine. I'm not sure what I did but I won't lose sleep over it. Fitted new light seals to the back cover and put a film through it on Sunday.It turned out sharp as a tack and perfectly exposed. I must admit I really like this camera, it was worth all the effort. Thanks again for the help. |
